Violent sounding clutch, bizarre electrical symptoms!
#1
Violent sounding clutch, bizarre electrical symptoms!
Howdy folks,
So ive got an interesting problem. Last year around the start of winter every other time i would start up my 87 22RE 4runner with the stock 5spd I would not have power to the Quartz radio, cigarette lighter, or CD/radio. I would then press on the clutch and get a seriously violent gear grinding sound that would last for not even 2 second, then it would be replaced with a whirring sound like the clutch (or something) is just spinning in place at high speed, until i let off the clutch and it would stop. I would drive around, with no other symptoms and then randomly and magically power would return to the clock, cigarette lighter and radio, and i could press in on the clutch with no sounds or gear grinding noises.
This problem was random and sporatic all winter. Spring came and it hasn't happened once until now(Nov11).
Now its the exact same thing, only im having no relief of the symptoms. It wont magically 'warm up' and stop making the violent gear grinding sound after driving for any length of time.
Any ideas? My first thought is that its an electrical issue that its not getting enough juice to the hydraulics of the clutch, and the same power supply also powers my accessories so that is why they stop and start working along with the sound. Ive noticed that when i do press and hold on the clutch, that my headlights decrease in intensity, and my heaters fan does as well. Not sure if thats another clue or not.
the funny part is that before i turn over the engine, i DO get power to those accessories, but engine turns on, and bamn they power off.
SO BIZARRE!
So ive got an interesting problem. Last year around the start of winter every other time i would start up my 87 22RE 4runner with the stock 5spd I would not have power to the Quartz radio, cigarette lighter, or CD/radio. I would then press on the clutch and get a seriously violent gear grinding sound that would last for not even 2 second, then it would be replaced with a whirring sound like the clutch (or something) is just spinning in place at high speed, until i let off the clutch and it would stop. I would drive around, with no other symptoms and then randomly and magically power would return to the clock, cigarette lighter and radio, and i could press in on the clutch with no sounds or gear grinding noises.
This problem was random and sporatic all winter. Spring came and it hasn't happened once until now(Nov11).
Now its the exact same thing, only im having no relief of the symptoms. It wont magically 'warm up' and stop making the violent gear grinding sound after driving for any length of time.
Any ideas? My first thought is that its an electrical issue that its not getting enough juice to the hydraulics of the clutch, and the same power supply also powers my accessories so that is why they stop and start working along with the sound. Ive noticed that when i do press and hold on the clutch, that my headlights decrease in intensity, and my heaters fan does as well. Not sure if thats another clue or not.
the funny part is that before i turn over the engine, i DO get power to those accessories, but engine turns on, and bamn they power off.
SO BIZARRE!
#2
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Okay, you have 2 separate issues going on here. A clutch issue, and an electrical issue. They may seem to be, but are unrelated.
The clutch is mechanical over hydraulic, your foot on clutch pedal pushes a rod into the piston on the clutch master creating hyd pressure pushing the slave cylinder piston, which operates the clutch fork. there is no juice going to the clutch. The clutch grinding as you describe sounds to me like a dry and/or locked up throw-out bearing. That's the part that pushes on the pressure plate fingers to disengage the clutch.
The electrical issues you describe sound like a corroded body or chassis ground, or possibly a corroded ignition switch contact. When you turn the key to "on", all accessories should be powered. When you go from "on" to "start", all your accessories should go off till you return to "on". This sends all available battery power to the starter during cranking.
So, I'd check the thow-out bearing (unfortunately this requires removal of the transmission). And I would check all grounds to the body, engine, and chassis for signs of corrosion, and don't forget the Neg battery post as well. Good luck...
John
The clutch is mechanical over hydraulic, your foot on clutch pedal pushes a rod into the piston on the clutch master creating hyd pressure pushing the slave cylinder piston, which operates the clutch fork. there is no juice going to the clutch. The clutch grinding as you describe sounds to me like a dry and/or locked up throw-out bearing. That's the part that pushes on the pressure plate fingers to disengage the clutch.
The electrical issues you describe sound like a corroded body or chassis ground, or possibly a corroded ignition switch contact. When you turn the key to "on", all accessories should be powered. When you go from "on" to "start", all your accessories should go off till you return to "on". This sends all available battery power to the starter during cranking.
So, I'd check the thow-out bearing (unfortunately this requires removal of the transmission). And I would check all grounds to the body, engine, and chassis for signs of corrosion, and don't forget the Neg battery post as well. Good luck...
John
#3
Groovy. Well that definitely gives me some food for thought. I thought the two issues were related as they go hand in hand. the clutch sound completely disappears as soon as power is restored to the accessories. Weird!
thanks so much for the ideas. Ill start looking around!
Are there any major grounds other than the neg battery terminal i should look for corrosion?
thanks so much for the ideas. Ill start looking around!
Are there any major grounds other than the neg battery terminal i should look for corrosion?
#4
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One possibility that could make the issues related is that if you have a bad ground, power will seek ground anywhere it can find it (path of least resistance). That path could be your clutch linkage. Remote, but possible...
John
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