vibration Woows :(
03-02-2007, 09:29 AM
#21
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Trying not to beat a dead horse... 
But the parking brake would not be an adequate test of the braking system. It's cable actuated and simply pulls the pads againt the drum. Totally mechanical and seperate of the hydraulic system.
Not saying the ABS is the problem, but if the ABS was acting up the parking brake would still stop the vehicle smoothly.
One thing stopping with the parking brake would eliminate is any braking force being applied to the front end. So your test might show that you have something loose or misaligned in the front. Be it tires or steering components.
Any freinds you could quickly swap at least front wheels/ tires with for a quick stop test to eliminate those as the source?
But the parking brake would not be an adequate test of the braking system. It's cable actuated and simply pulls the pads againt the drum. Totally mechanical and seperate of the hydraulic system.
Not saying the ABS is the problem, but if the ABS was acting up the parking brake would still stop the vehicle smoothly.
One thing stopping with the parking brake would eliminate is any braking force being applied to the front end. So your test might show that you have something loose or misaligned in the front. Be it tires or steering components.
Any freinds you could quickly swap at least front wheels/ tires with for a quick stop test to eliminate those as the source?
03-02-2007, 10:23 AM
#22
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sounds like its time to pull the plug on the ABS and give her a try?
03-02-2007, 10:30 AM
#23
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Have had EXACT same problem with my 98, ive tried a lot from new tires (old were shot), front rotors and pads, two alignments, rotation and balancing, and nothing has solved the issue of the vibration and I dont know what to do next? 
03-02-2007, 10:36 AM
#24
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Nobody's said it, so I'll mention the steering stabilizer / shock absorber. I don't think this would be the reason since it's pulsing the brake pedal, but if it was totally shot then who knows?
Yes, pull the ABS fuse and give that a try! You will be just as safe w/o rear ABS as with it... the ABS fuse should be in the kick panel by your left foot.
My money would really be on the warped rotors. I'd try checking for that without a dial indicator, just take the wheel off, spread your calipers a bit so the rotor spins free, and spin it. Watch the gap between the rotor and pads, if you can't see anything then try gently squeezing the caliper back together until it makes contact with the rotor... keep turning it... is there a tight spot?
Yes, pull the ABS fuse and give that a try! You will be just as safe w/o rear ABS as with it... the ABS fuse should be in the kick panel by your left foot.
My money would really be on the warped rotors. I'd try checking for that without a dial indicator, just take the wheel off, spread your calipers a bit so the rotor spins free, and spin it. Watch the gap between the rotor and pads, if you can't see anything then try gently squeezing the caliper back together until it makes contact with the rotor... keep turning it... is there a tight spot?
03-02-2007, 10:44 AM
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Nobody's said it, so I'll mention the steering stabilizer / shock absorber. I don't think this would be the reason since it's pulsing the brake pedal, but if it was totally shot then who knows?
Yes, pull the ABS fuse and give that a try! You will be just as safe w/o rear ABS as with it... the ABS fuse should be in the kick panel by your left foot.
My money would really be on the warped rotors. I'd try checking for that without a dial indicator, just take the wheel off, spread your calipers a bit so the rotor spins free, and spin it. Watch the gap between the rotor and pads, if you can't see anything then try gently squeezing the caliper back together until it makes contact with the rotor... keep turning it... is there a tight spot?
Yes, pull the ABS fuse and give that a try! You will be just as safe w/o rear ABS as with it... the ABS fuse should be in the kick panel by your left foot.
My money would really be on the warped rotors. I'd try checking for that without a dial indicator, just take the wheel off, spread your calipers a bit so the rotor spins free, and spin it. Watch the gap between the rotor and pads, if you can't see anything then try gently squeezing the caliper back together until it makes contact with the rotor... keep turning it... is there a tight spot?
i thought abuot shocks, and the stabilizer, but i didn't tihnk they are the cause, becuase of what u had said also.
I actaully tried that yesterday, turning the rotor, on the pass side, it turned kinda freely, i couldn't see any run out, didn't feel like there were a tight spot but like i said, i will be checking it with a dial indicator tomorrow nite, when i goto have the tires checked. which BTW they are fairly new, about 3k on them.
I want to stress something that it does... AFTER driving with out stopping for a while (like 5-10miles on the highway, which i do) the vibration goes away until i hit the brakes, which makes me lean towards the bearing.
Keep the ideas flowing. THANX GUYS!
03-02-2007, 02:55 PM
#28
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now, at school, i threw the rims on our balancer which doesn't have the attachment for lug centric wheels and the wheel were horribly out of balance but our staff asured me that it was normal for lug centric wheels. PLEASE CORRECT ME IF THIS INFO IS WRONG! it could solve my problem. I guess we'll know for sure when i get them checked at sear with the proper attachment.
Here is what I would suggest, you got a shop with a hunter road force machine and the adapter. Call ahead they dont know what those things are you dont go there. Tire rack has a searcher than can tell you what shops in your area has the hunter machine.
Go to the shop and have them balanced, if that doesnt work your tires or wheels are out of round. I have heard before that some of the wheels themselves are out of round and causing the problem. Take the tires off, mount the wheels and look for run out with the truck in the air and the wheels moving. Lifting it and putting it in 4wd and giving it a bit of gas to get it going really helps.
Another person had this same exact problem I recall and it was their wheels. If your located within driving distance of NYC and dont mind stopping by NJ I can set up a date where I can personally go and use my former HS autoshop and balance your wheels if you provide me some stick on wheel weights-if you want to..
Last edited by CJM; 03-02-2007 at 02:57 PM.
03-02-2007, 08:10 PM
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Now see that gets me, I have balanced plenty of toyota rims/tires and you dont need a lugcentric haweka adaptor if you do it right. You need to find the correct cone for the inside of the wheel and mount it with the cone facing with the narrow end out and then put the wheel/tire on and tighten it. It hasnt failed me yet, we could argue all day (and I know someone will try) but our wheels are lugcentric as they arent centered on the hubs but the lugs and whatever your school said they are flat out wrong!
Here is what I would suggest, you got a shop with a hunter road force machine and the adapter. Call ahead they dont know what those things are you dont go there. Tire rack has a searcher than can tell you what shops in your area has the hunter machine.
Go to the shop and have them balanced, if that doesnt work your tires or wheels are out of round. I have heard before that some of the wheels themselves are out of round and causing the problem. Take the tires off, mount the wheels and look for run out with the truck in the air and the wheels moving. Lifting it and putting it in 4wd and giving it a bit of gas to get it going really helps.
Another person had this same exact problem I recall and it was their wheels. If your located within driving distance of NYC and dont mind stopping by NJ I can set up a date where I can personally go and use my former HS autoshop and balance your wheels if you provide me some stick on wheel weights-if you want to..
Here is what I would suggest, you got a shop with a hunter road force machine and the adapter. Call ahead they dont know what those things are you dont go there. Tire rack has a searcher than can tell you what shops in your area has the hunter machine.
Go to the shop and have them balanced, if that doesnt work your tires or wheels are out of round. I have heard before that some of the wheels themselves are out of round and causing the problem. Take the tires off, mount the wheels and look for run out with the truck in the air and the wheels moving. Lifting it and putting it in 4wd and giving it a bit of gas to get it going really helps.
Another person had this same exact problem I recall and it was their wheels. If your located within driving distance of NYC and dont mind stopping by NJ I can set up a date where I can personally go and use my former HS autoshop and balance your wheels if you provide me some stick on wheel weights-if you want to..
03-04-2007, 04:48 PM
#31
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Just to make sure you guys have the full story...
the truck is a 90 t4r v6 5spd 4x4
I finally got around to changing all my fluids, engine, trans, front diff, transfer case (rear diff was done in november), greased ball joints, and drive shafts. noticed that the idler arm was loose.
next week, replaced idler arm + alternator. checked front pads, they were getting low.
same day, i started having a vibration which happened after 50mph. It was mostly in the steering wheel, some what in the body. and when i hit the brakes it got a lot worse and the whole truck shook.
checked ball joints, bearing, steering components. Noticed pass side tierod was a little loose. ball joints seamed ok. bearing were a little loose, and grease looked shot.
2 weeks later, i finally got pads, rotors, and bearing seals, and bearings just in case, just happened that the pads were almost done, infact one pad was completely gone. I replaced the rotors, pads (after fighting with the calipers for ever and having to replace the slidepins which were stuck in the calipers pretty bad. Check the bearing, they looked not to be worn. I cleaned and repacked them.
no change in vibration.
fast forward to yesterday, replaced outer tie rod (thinking that it may have been the cause). aligned the front end, its perfect now (the alignment), and rotated the tires.
vibration still there but now, instead of a violent shaking the steering wheel (but it will does shake), the whole truck is shaking, bad. over 50mph and when i hit the brakes.
also if i drive on the highway for a little bit, like 10miles, the vibration dampens. and only comes back after pressing the brakes. and usually if i driver under 45mph, it wont vibrate at all unless i have gone past 50mph and/or it started to vibrate, then it vibrates at all speeds, after it has started doing it.
also when i press the brake, the pedal pulsates but only after the truck has started vibrating.
my thoughts, bearing. its possible i guess that my torque wrench isn't working properly and was under torquing when i set the bearing, or i didn't seat them properly.
its been happening for over 1000miles, and has been at least 300miles since i did the bearing. its getting really annoying. not only because of the shaking but also because i can't find the cause.
I'm going to try to over tighten the bearing a little bit, but i don't have a 2 &1/8 socket here at home (we do at school), so i'm just going to try and use plier's to just tighten the bearings to see if it will go away, then when i get back school next week, re tighten using a socket, just to do it right.
any ideas guys? please help
ps. sry for the chapter book...
the truck is a 90 t4r v6 5spd 4x4
I finally got around to changing all my fluids, engine, trans, front diff, transfer case (rear diff was done in november), greased ball joints, and drive shafts. noticed that the idler arm was loose.
next week, replaced idler arm + alternator. checked front pads, they were getting low.
same day, i started having a vibration which happened after 50mph. It was mostly in the steering wheel, some what in the body. and when i hit the brakes it got a lot worse and the whole truck shook.
checked ball joints, bearing, steering components. Noticed pass side tierod was a little loose. ball joints seamed ok. bearing were a little loose, and grease looked shot.
2 weeks later, i finally got pads, rotors, and bearing seals, and bearings just in case, just happened that the pads were almost done, infact one pad was completely gone. I replaced the rotors, pads (after fighting with the calipers for ever and having to replace the slidepins which were stuck in the calipers pretty bad. Check the bearing, they looked not to be worn. I cleaned and repacked them.
no change in vibration.
fast forward to yesterday, replaced outer tie rod (thinking that it may have been the cause). aligned the front end, its perfect now
(the alignment), and rotated the tires.vibration still there but now, instead of a violent shaking the steering wheel (but it will does shake), the whole truck is shaking, bad. over 50mph and when i hit the brakes.
also if i drive on the highway for a little bit, like 10miles, the vibration dampens. and only comes back after pressing the brakes. and usually if i driver under 45mph, it wont vibrate at all unless i have gone past 50mph and/or it started to vibrate, then it vibrates at all speeds, after it has started doing it.
also when i press the brake, the pedal pulsates but only after the truck has started vibrating.
my thoughts, bearing. its possible i guess that my torque wrench isn't working properly and was under torquing when i set the bearing, or i didn't seat them properly.
its been happening for over 1000miles, and has been at least 300miles since i did the bearing. its getting really annoying. not only because of the shaking but also because i can't find the cause.
I'm going to try to over tighten the bearing a little bit, but i don't have a 2 &1/8 socket here at home (we do at school), so i'm just going to try and use plier's to just tighten the bearings to see if it will go away, then when i get back school next week, re tighten using a socket, just to do it right.
any ideas guys? please help
ps. sry for the chapter book...
Dang, If you are getting a pulsating through pedal then I would say drums or rotors as they are the only thing that could make it do that. Anti lock wouldn't make your pedal do that, I know because I have the same model, year and I've never felt a pulsating through pedal. If you did rotor replacement, etc. make sure the rotor surfaces are clean and grease free. Those suckers will grab like mad if any grease are on them, make hot spots and warp them again.
03-05-2007, 07:08 PM
#32
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checked the runout today, the driver side, little to none. pass side .008in (double the spec!) it looked like the pads were dragging, because they wore down 25% in like a week, WTF, they were also all cracked, We checked the calipers, non of the pistons are sticking.
We ended up regreasing the bearings, and turned the pass side rotor (using a on car lathe).
Vibration got better, but still not completely gone and brake pedal pulsates and vibration gets worse.
I'm gonna check the rear brakes next.
drivetrain problem? front cv's? driveshafts? but would they cause this type of problem?
We ended up regreasing the bearings, and turned the pass side rotor (using a on car lathe).
Vibration got better, but still not completely gone and brake pedal pulsates and vibration gets worse.
I'm gonna check the rear brakes next.
drivetrain problem? front cv's? driveshafts? but would they cause this type of problem?
03-06-2007, 02:26 PM
#33
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checked the runout today, the driver side, little to none. pass side .008in (double the spec!) it looked like the pads were dragging, because they wore down 25% in like a week, WTF, they were also all cracked, We checked the calipers, non of the pistons are sticking.
We ended up regreasing the bearings, and turned the pass side rotor (using a on car lathe).
Vibration got better, but still not completely gone and brake pedal pulsates and vibration gets worse.
I'm gonna check the rear brakes next.
drivetrain problem? front cv's? driveshafts? but would they cause this type of problem?
We ended up regreasing the bearings, and turned the pass side rotor (using a on car lathe).
Vibration got better, but still not completely gone and brake pedal pulsates and vibration gets worse.
I'm gonna check the rear brakes next.
drivetrain problem? front cv's? driveshafts? but would they cause this type of problem?
Check to see if front pad rods move freely out and back in, this checks for dragging and sticking of the rods. Replace the rods if they can't be put in fairly easy by hand. Otherwise they will let your front pads drag causing premature pad wear and hot spots or warping of the rotor.
Last edited by JEBSR5; 03-06-2007 at 02:48 PM. Reason: clarity
03-06-2007, 02:51 PM
#36
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i did both dynamic and static balance. no change between the two.
yea, i also think its something in the brakes, the pads and rotors are cheapos. I'm leaning towards a caliper issue at the moment.
any body think my vacuum booster can be causing the problem? i know it leaks, but if its slightly applying the brakes, that will cause my drag issue.
yea, i also think its something in the brakes, the pads and rotors are cheapos. I'm leaning towards a caliper issue at the moment.
any body think my vacuum booster can be causing the problem? i know it leaks, but if its slightly applying the brakes, that will cause my drag issue.
02-27-2008, 08:21 PM
#37
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Igotasandbox4u
Have you got a soultion yet? Just wondering, My T100 has the same prob. when I need the breaks in a hurry, steering wheel has serious wabble, and I tired of changing rotors and breaks. I went so far to change calipers once, when I did this i remember hearing from a customer not to abuse the breaks because they will warp with heat. I can't say that I did, and it still irritates me when I need to stop right now, slo stop is not so bad but I'd like to get a the fix on it.
3- '82 4x's
1- '96 T100
3- '82 4x's
1- '96 T100
02-27-2008, 08:36 PM
#38
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Dude, you got a warped rotor. The vibration goes away as the pistons are beaten back into the caliper by the warped rotor. You don't need a dial indicator to find it, simply have a friend lightly apply the brakes while you rotate the front wheels. Then let off and rotate some more, you'll feel the dragging on the warped rotor. sss sss sss sss as the wheel goes around. Just cause it's new doesn't mean its true. That's an old trap, don't fall into it.
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