Valve clearance 3VZE
#1
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Valve clearance 3VZE
Hi boys and girls!
I'm hoping some of you experienced smart folks can toss in your 2 cents worth here.
Been putting my heads back on finally (long, ugly story) and put the cams back on Friday. Thought I'd check the clearance, and it'd been like 5 yrs since I had the heads 'rebuilt'. Quotes on that because I can't find the receipt and have a serious case of CRS. Allegedly (iirc) he had set the heads up while I had been away in PHX that year.
So, here's what I have, having only torqued the camshafts down, and not really turning them a bunch, just enough to rotate lobes up.
IN OUT (all in inches)
1 .010+ .008+ (I say plus because too tight for next size, but feels a bit loosey) is that a word?
2 .007 .010
3 .008+ .007+
4 .008 .007
5 .010+ .013+
6 .007 .011
So according to the fsm, I am borderline tight (if not too tight?) Obviously some of those exhausts are going to have to change, correct?
Is tighter clearance on either side better than too loose or is looser side better if anything?
I remember when the guy (down in Midland, tx) did my machine work, he snapped that little flange on one of the cam shafts. I don't have it, I reckon he must've kept it. Took him my spare heads (had bought a 94 with a 'running engine' that turned out to be crap) and he used one camshaft.
/aside: I often wonder how much those shims, etc got all mixed up. Do you reckon I might have a problem with wear patterns? At this point I'm just basically making it the best I reasonably can with what I have. And hoping for the best. Hopey/changy anyone? /end aside
So, any thoughts, words of wisdom or prayers (haha)? Thanks in advance.
I might add, I seem to have misplaced quite a few parts (new ones too). Moving 3 times will do that. Please, no lectures. I can get that from my ex or my kids, haha. Anyway, I ran across a website that had "oem" parts, that were 20 to 50% off stealer. Started to purchase, but then got warning of overseas web server, etc etc. Cancelled the transaction, and am looking to go buy a gift card to make a test purchase with. Hopefully in next few days before I go back to work. Apparently its a 'warehouse' ala amazon-style that sources from others without stocking stuff, located in Dubai or some jihadistan or such. I'll let you know if it turns out to be legit, and real oem parts.
I'm hoping some of you experienced smart folks can toss in your 2 cents worth here.
Been putting my heads back on finally (long, ugly story) and put the cams back on Friday. Thought I'd check the clearance, and it'd been like 5 yrs since I had the heads 'rebuilt'. Quotes on that because I can't find the receipt and have a serious case of CRS. Allegedly (iirc) he had set the heads up while I had been away in PHX that year.
So, here's what I have, having only torqued the camshafts down, and not really turning them a bunch, just enough to rotate lobes up.
IN OUT (all in inches)
1 .010+ .008+ (I say plus because too tight for next size, but feels a bit loosey) is that a word?
2 .007 .010
3 .008+ .007+
4 .008 .007
5 .010+ .013+
6 .007 .011
So according to the fsm, I am borderline tight (if not too tight?) Obviously some of those exhausts are going to have to change, correct?
Is tighter clearance on either side better than too loose or is looser side better if anything?
I remember when the guy (down in Midland, tx) did my machine work, he snapped that little flange on one of the cam shafts. I don't have it, I reckon he must've kept it. Took him my spare heads (had bought a 94 with a 'running engine' that turned out to be crap) and he used one camshaft.
/aside: I often wonder how much those shims, etc got all mixed up. Do you reckon I might have a problem with wear patterns? At this point I'm just basically making it the best I reasonably can with what I have. And hoping for the best. Hopey/changy anyone? /end aside
So, any thoughts, words of wisdom or prayers (haha)? Thanks in advance.
I might add, I seem to have misplaced quite a few parts (new ones too). Moving 3 times will do that. Please, no lectures. I can get that from my ex or my kids, haha. Anyway, I ran across a website that had "oem" parts, that were 20 to 50% off stealer. Started to purchase, but then got warning of overseas web server, etc etc. Cancelled the transaction, and am looking to go buy a gift card to make a test purchase with. Hopefully in next few days before I go back to work. Apparently its a 'warehouse' ala amazon-style that sources from others without stocking stuff, located in Dubai or some jihadistan or such. I'll let you know if it turns out to be legit, and real oem parts.
Last edited by coopster; 08-21-2016 at 09:55 AM. Reason: clarify Q on tolerance (looser or tighter)
#2
I would go up one shim size of the exhaust valves. Or if you are good with pulling the valves out have the machine shop take a 0.002 off of where the valve seats to the head. This will make the valve sit slightly higher and get you to the correct valve lash. Most machine shops would only charge you a few bucks to do it vs paying $10 per shim at Toyota.
From my research you want your intake valves around .007-.009 basically on the tighter side of the tolerance. But for the exhaust valves you want them set on the wider side of the .009-.013 range. The exhaust valves seem to move in a little more and I set mine at 0.011-0.012.
From my research you want your intake valves around .007-.009 basically on the tighter side of the tolerance. But for the exhaust valves you want them set on the wider side of the .009-.013 range. The exhaust valves seem to move in a little more and I set mine at 0.011-0.012.
#3
Registered User
I would go up one shim size of the exhaust valves. Or if you are good with pulling the valves out have the machine shop take a 0.002 off of where the valve seats to the head. This will make the valve sit slightly higher and get you to the correct valve lash. Most machine shops would only charge you a few bucks to do it vs paying $10 per shim at Toyota.
From my research you want your intake valves around .007-.009 basically on the tighter side of the tolerance. But for the exhaust valves you want them set on the wider side of the .009-.013 range. The exhaust valves seem to move in a little more and I set mine at 0.011-0.012.
From my research you want your intake valves around .007-.009 basically on the tighter side of the tolerance. But for the exhaust valves you want them set on the wider side of the .009-.013 range. The exhaust valves seem to move in a little more and I set mine at 0.011-0.012.
It is always bad practice to remove any material from the valve face that is not required to restore its seating surface.
However ,the end of the valve STEM might be ground to increase lash clearances.
Absolutely best to make the exhaust clearances near the wide limit.
Last edited by millball; 08-21-2016 at 01:25 PM.
#4
Good catch. Sorry I was not paying attention. In that case remove 0.002 off of the valve stem Still beats spending $10 per shim at Toyota. Removing material from the valve stem is easy.
Last edited by cbr600rx7; 08-21-2016 at 12:17 PM.
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