Im looking to do a valve adjustment on my 22re, and im wondering whats the best way to get the timing lined up? Should i take off the grille, and go through there, or is there some other way to get your wrench down onto the end of the crankshaft?

 

just squeeze it in between the radiator and block line it up to '0' and adjust the proper ones, then rotate it 360* and do the other valves. i took off the skidplate and did it then i had a mechanic come over and do it and he went the way i described earlier.

 

There should be room to go in-between the radiator and the crank. Its a 19mm bolt. if you remove the plugs it MUCH easier to rotate.


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have any pics of your buckets?

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thanks.

I dont have any pics, but i can try and take some tomorrow.

 

Talking about valve adjusting I need to do mine but when I set it to 0 TDC adjust the valves FSM says then when I rotate it, one of the exhaust valve rocker arms is on a lobe of the cam so how I am I supposed to adjust it then??

 

No need to go through all that confusing mess

Pull your valve cover off keep track of which ones you adjust, just make sure the rocker arms aren't riding on any cam lobes when you adjust it. Thats it!

Also adjust them to 7 and 11, instead of 8 and 12, not going to hurt anything at all and it'll keep your valves a little quiter.

 

I did mine the FSM way and it worked perfectly for me... As a matter of fact it seems a whole lot less confusing than rotating the crank 8 times and trying to remember which I did and which not.

Just rotate the crank so the mark is at 0 and #1 is on the compression stroke. Both rocker arms on #1 will be loose when you're on the compression stroke.

Then you basically adjust all the ones that are loose. It will be both on #1, 1 on #2 and 1 on #3. Then give the crank one full revolution and back to the 0 degree mark. Now #1 will be on the exhaust stroke and you can adjust the other #2, #3, and both on #4.

Seemed pretty simple to me...

 

I just start on the exhaust side, disconnect the coil, and use a starter bypass switch (not to sure technical term), and keep bumping it over till the 1st valve is no longer on a cam lobe, then I use the same thing and bump it till the 2nd valve is no longer on a cam lobe, same with 3rd and 4th. Then I move onto the intakeside and do the samething. No need to count number of times etc... just make sure the valve isn't on a cam lobe.

It's not a science or anything, you don't need to mark TDC and rotate exactly this number of times. I don't care if the FSM states you need, your adjust the valve lash, which is the amount of slop the rocker arm has when not holding open or closed a valve. (i.e. the rocker isn't on a cam lobe)

 

That's the beauty of the FSM way... You rotate once, that's it.

As you mentioned though, all you're doing is adjusting the valves when they aren't compressed. It doesn't really matter how you do it. Whatever floats your boat is fine.

 

I tried several times, and ended up doing it .007, and .011 cold. Its still fairly noisy. Is there something i might be missing?

 

Your not sposed to do it cold, you need to do it warm... If that doesn't eliminate the noise or most of it anyway, then its something else.

Your sposed to adjust them with the engine up to temp.