i know the spec warm but any one got a good idea what it would be cold?

 

22R-E??? I would do it while its warm so that you know the valves are in spec when the motor is at normal temp. I think the valve clearance actually becomes greater on these engines as they warm up. Not all clearances will change the same amount as it warms up so the best bet is while its warm.

 

Some members were talking about .007 and .011 cold. What confuses me is that the FSM says .008 and .012 COLD. What's up with that?

 

7-11 cold check with 8-12 to make sure it is 7-11.

 

well it just seem like a pain to warm up the truck then tear it down! quick so it does not cool down!

but i wanted to do this cold when i do my timing chain!

 

I don't think .001" is gonna kill you either way. I think your splitting hairs. Do it cold and then run it and check them warm. If you think its a hassle to do it right, then you probably should not be in your motor.

 

When I recently did my head gasket, timing chain and oil pump I could not
warm the engine up. I used .007 for the intake valves and .011 for the exhaust and it worked out fine. I checked them yesterday with the engine warm and they were right on .008 and .012 with the engine warm.

I hope this helps.

 

Myself and a number of other members on here have had issues with doing it cold. I think between myself and thook we've probably got a dozen tries at it lol.

I tried it cold, I tried it hot. It'll be really noisy cold.

OH, and one other tip for adjusting valve lash. Put in the flat feeler gauge, and wiggle it in and out while tightening down the adjusting screw. When the gauge cant move any more back off the adjuster just slightly until you can start to move the gauge again, and that'll be right at spec. works way better than setting it by the "drag feeling" of the feeler gauge.

 

Bodda-bing, bodda-boom. D'ats da way to do it, eh! Me valve train is very, very smooth, now. Like butt'a...aye, yo.