90inworks

so when driving my floor bored vibrates and when i kick it in N and turn the radio off so i can hear better and its a throbbing so to speak sound???? what could this be???? it doesnt matter how fast i go or if im accelerating.... PLEASE HELP ME I MUST FIGURE THIS OUT TONIGHT!!!!
thank you

Clint

90inworks

Come On Guys I Need To Get This Figured Out Asap

thook

Was it in 4wd? Does it make any difference with the clutch in or out? Does it make any difference in or out of gear? Does it change at all in frequency with speed?

Guardian_Saint

Search and Rescue... Driveshaft yoke or U joint, never done it before so I just learn it from the other thread... Mine vibrate at 90 miles per hour, maybe the driveshaft yoke.

90inworks

its when in 2wd (havent tried 4), it doesnt matter when the clutch is in or out, it doesnt matter if its in gear or not, it stays the same at all speeds... i think its is the u joints ugh ill be pi$$ed if it is

thook

Well, if it doesn't change in frequency with speed....therefore rotation....nor the clutch dis/engagement, then it's not the u-joint, the transmission, clutch, or the differentials.

You say it doesn't change AT ALL? When it's in neutral, are you sitting still or coasting?

90inworks

its when im coasting
i think im gonna take it one of the off road shops here in town and have them take a look

thook

Okay.....good luck. Maybe it's nothing serious. Post back, eh?

90inworks

sounds good if it is shes getting parked ill let yall know how it goes tomarrow

thook

Just for funzies, check the gear oil level in your tranny.

zlathim

I think you guys were correct in assuming that a u-joint is bad. It seems like it would change in frequency depending upon vehicle speed, but other than that you are describing a bad u-joint or loose companion flange. It may even be a worn out carrier bearing situation.

Find a nice flat surface and park the truck on it in nuetral with the parking brake set securely. Chock the tires so you are sure it won't roll and get under there with a prybar. Check each u-joint for movement or play, check the carrier bearing to make sure it is holding the DL securely in place without a bunch of slop.

90inworks

ok ill try that instead of having it test drove... are u joint pricy?

infiltrator

well, my u-joints are going out too. i feel vibrations and a clunk when i put mine in gear. i know yours is a manual, and mine is automatic, but this is what my joints looked like take a look here.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-131310/

im searching google, but its not too bad of a job. just take the bolts off, and im still searching for a way to get the actual "joint" part in and out.

zlathim

After the drive line is removed take it over to your workbench. The u-joint caps will need to come off, then you can get the cross removed.

The caps may or may not have (can't remember for sure) a circlip holding them on. Sometimes the circlip is on the end of the round cap located in a groove in the yoke boss. Sometimes the circlip is on the other side of the yoke boss residing in a groove on the cap itself. Remove all the circlips.

Put the joint into a vise with a socket slightly smaller than and pushing against the round cap on one end of the yoke and a socket larger than the cap on the other side (large enough so that the cap can slide out of the yoke boss and into the socket). You want to arrange all this in a vice so that you push one cap out at a time all the time pushing on the sockets and not the yoke itself. If the yoke starts to look like it is deforming, stop and make sure everything is lined up correctly. Don't smash the yoke. If it is set up correctly the caps will push out fairly easily. I'm not sure how clear I'm making this sound, so just ask if your still not sure. I wish I had some pictures to post, but I don't.

Anyways, be sure to mark the DL before removing it from the truck and mark it so you can get the yokes back on in the same position they came apart.

P.S. Some people prefer to remove the caps by striking the yoke with a hammer right next to the boss. I have done it this way and it does work, but I only use it as a last resort as I am leary of repeatedly smacking the yoke.

infiltrator

okay so i understand that i have to keep this yoke thing safe. im not sure i have an actual vise ill have to check with some of my friends. if not can i just use a clamp? i saw it in one picture, but i know i have some of those.

so i pop off the caps with what a screwdriver or something (any way to get them out i guess?)

then with those poped off, hold two ends of the + cross with clamps or vise so it looks like this |+| and then with the other sides push one side in so the thing pops out like this
|+|
_l <something popping out of the plus sign

then do the other side (the yoke is in the middle right?)

i probably have this wrong, so please correct me

zlathim

Sorry- we may be a little off with our terminology with respect to what we are telling each other. The yoke is the part that has the round holes (bosses) that the caps are pressed into. There are two yokes for each u-joint assembly. The cross is in between the caps and looks like an X more or less.

The caps will not come out with a screwdriver, but you can get the circlips off of the caps with a screwdriver. Tha caps are pressed into the yoke and they are what is going to need to be pressed out. There are four caps per u-joint assembly. A large clamp might work ok, depending on how easily the caps will want to move, some come out easy and some seem to be fairly frozen in place. Use some penetrating oil to ease removal.

zlathim

Check out this link:

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60402

It shows them actually using a u-joint press to do the job, but a large clamp and a couple of sockets might work ok. I always use my bench vise, but that doesn't mean anything!

Good luck with the project!

infiltrator

oh okay, ill follow this, and write my own writeup on here for ppl.

do i really have to raise the rear?

zlathim

No, you don't need to raise the rear. Just make sure that the parking brake is set and the wheels chocked to keep it from rolling. Looking forward to hearing how it all comes together for you.

thook

A u-joint will change frequency with vehicle speed.

You don't need to raise the rear, but the added clearance makes the job nicer.

Here's a redneck method.....
Using a bottle jack...
Once you have the yoke out of the driveline and are ready to press the cross and it's caps out, place a bottle jack securely and directly under the frame of the vehicle. Place the yoke between the frame and jack while using a socket (smaller than the cap) at the jack side and one socket (deep well....larger than the cap size) between the yoke and frame. Crank the jack until it pushes the top cap into the larger socket. Flip the yoke and do the other side. Obviously DO NOT do this if it's jacking the vehicle up at the same time. If the caps are not binding in the yoke, it should not move the vehicle. Penetrating fluid or a torch do help.

So when the vehicle isn't in motion, it doesn't make this noise?