i know it's common the use a 1/2ton chevy ds but anybody used a 1ton from a older 70-90 dodge ram with a 318v8 motor. yes it will be heavy but i have one laying around just don't want to cut it up yet.

 

What are you trying to do?

 

go from the stock double c to a long shaft

 

why ?

 

like the idea of a long vs having to change all the u-joints+ the cc it vibs like crazy and i just changed all the joints in rear. only does it in 2wd around 50 then when i changed them it started around 35. now it's back to 50 . so i just see it fit to eliminate all the extra stuff. carrier preload is fine i had a ds shop check it.

 

Yeah plenty of people do the two-piece to solid/slip to get rid of bad vibrations..
However, not alot of people do it with a non-toyota driveshaft.
I mean, if the shaft has the right bolt pattern at both ends, and is long enough then go for it.
But, you're better off just going to a junkyard and findign a shaft off another yota

 

im still looking for a yota shaft haven't seen anything yet just other parts. next solid axle i see im grabbing some guy grabbed it before i could (got the whole front end with the rear leafs) for 150$


anybody within the forums have a ds?

 

I got one from my 4rnr, running dual cases so has to change DS. Will have to be lengthened of course. Where are you?

 

in nc about 3 1/2hrs from Charlotte give or take

 

Funny, I have a house in Charlotte. But am living in WA state so imagine shipping expensive for the complete shaft.

 

You could concievably make it work, but the amount of work and cost makes it not worth it.

Toyota uses a bolt on flange, and Dodge uses U-joint straps. You would have to find a Toyota driveline, cut off the flanges, then have them welded into your Dodge driveline. That is assuming the tubes are the same size. If the tubes are not the same size, you would have to find a way to step it down. At that point, in my opinion, its not even worth it.

 

Probably better off just lengthening a stock shaft. Cost me $80-90 bucks for the last one I did but that was a front shaft and unbalanced. Driveline shops usually charge by the foot for the material, per weld (2), and for balancing provided all the joints are still good. The thicker material is of course more, its what I opted for but only due to the wheeling I do.

 

im thinking about hitting carolina driveshaft and seeing what they say about making me one or doing what you did and just lengthen it, balancing it calling it good. what years are direct fit for a 89 dlx ? the front is fine for now at least till i get all my sas parts together