Hello everyone

Im new to the forum....1st posting

I have a rusted 93 toyota pick up 4x4 with a stock 22re
Im a lazy duck tape, bailing wire, hose clamp, ball hammer kind of guy....Mr shortcut is what my local friends call me Hahaha

Here is my issue to the forum...
I may need to remove and replace a fuel pump,

can I just use a 8 inch hole saw in the truck bed to get to the fuel pump in the fuel tank for replacement then just use a sheetmetal patch, silicone and rivits to fix the truck bed floor....Im not wanting to spend alot of time on this...so im wondering how doable this is, and what I have to watch out for

Im pretty sure im not the 1st one to think of or attempt this idea...

And no, I dot care about cosmetics...its a paint truck

You guys have a great forum, you should be proud of what you have accomplished...class act all the way.

Prop

 

uhhmmm.....???

ive heard of people dropping the tank, and others just removing the bed completly to access the fuel pump.

its really not that hard. just go ahed and do it the right way

 

Please don't cut yourself on the edges after you cut the hole.

I wouldn't do it that way, but it probably could be done. I'd still try getting the tank out the right way first, though. I took off my bed (flatbed-I'm in NH) and used that opportunity to do some cleaning/rust inspection.

 

i agree with resto-noob. i prefer pulling the bed, you get to take a look and see if theres any potential problems that may have been un-detected if you were to just cut a little peek hole through the bed

 

not only that, the fuel tank is mounted so close to the bed floor, that it would be very easy to cut into your fuel tank. I'm all about the cheap and easy, the bed isn't that hard to take loose, about 6 bolts, and a few wires. Then you just set it off with the help of a friend. takes maybe 3 hours, depending on how "stuck" the bolts are.

 

don't be a hooser, take the bed off, its only a couple of bolts.

 

Guys

Thank you for the fast responce, I may have just lucked out, I hooked up a timing light/tacho and the timing was about 15-20 degrees off.....10-15 degrees on the oppisite side of zero...so now the truck is running great....still bogging down a bit on load and hills. But I cant get the short out to work on the little dianostic box...one of the slots appears to be missing a wire...so I cant short out the idle ....so im hoping some more fiddling...and im golden

Actually pulling the bed isnt an option, I had to weld in some metal bettween the frame and bed...to fix the rotted out frame


And im fearful of what id find or what could happen if I removed the tank....it could turn into a real mess fast considering all the rust

Prop....ignorance is bliss

 

take a flashlight and look down into the terminals... the pin may have been pushed out over time that's why you can't short the terminals out... it has happened to me, so I carefully opened the bottom of the diagnostic connector and shoved the pin back into place

but before you do any of this, make sure you're looking at the correct end of the connector! I made that mistake too

 

Weld the bed to the frame to fix the frame? OMG just having major frame work done to mine, I cannot possibly imagine what hack job would have done that. Not to mention not safe one bit and also I cannot imagine what purpose it would serve. Anyway, having had to take my original bed off due to rust and what happened to most of the bed mount hardware (tore right apart from the bed to where it was no longer usable) I always recommend dropping the tank if your in a salt belt or your entire undercarriage is rusted. Reason being the hardware on the tank straps is replaceable, the bed hardware and mounts are not. At least not by someone who don't know how to weld.

 

Thanks "The Man"

You nailed it .... I can shove a wire way down inside the hole with no contact or resistance....

So thats good to know I can acccess the bottom of the dianostic box and shove the clip back into place....i was planning to strip the insulation back and find the offending wire and sever it and make a new connection for it out side the diagnostic box

So ill try re installing the clip back into place 1st

 

Hahaha,

Welll the hack job was me....haha

Yeah, thank god rotted frames wont fail an inspection, like in the uk, but ive owned this beast about 16 years and has about 300,000 miles and just trying to hold it togather till economy turns around to buy a new truck, had it not been for the frame rot out, id keep it for the full 1,000,000 miles...my truck is everything I want in a work truck

 

my rotted frame wouldn't pass PA inspection. See the latter section of my build thread. I still haven't updated it with finished photos due to our trail run and getting it back so close to the event. But in there you can see what I started with. $500 later the entire rear half from the middle bed mount back has been plated over and re-boxed with 1/8" material. Only thing left to do is replace the shackle hangers. The guy kinda patched the one side up to get me by for now and they held up to some big time abuse this weekend.

 

wow...welded the bed to the frame....

 

Yeah...it was ugly....haahaha

Basically the box was gone on the inside and bottom on the driver side for about 3 feet in front of the rear wheel so I reboxed it with 1/8 inch plate but I was fearful of twist/flex in the frame at the repair section, so I angle ironed the top and w, elded it to the bed...i did think about drilling and bolting it in place, but the welder was faster and I already had it in hand.....

Mr. Shortcut strikes agian

 

^^^doesnt really sound like it has much structural integrity imo