I remember reading this many years ago, but I cant find a posting on this issue.

Anything I should worry about using a chain strap around the cranshaft pulley to get the bolt off? I need to remove the cranshaft bolt off my 94 4Runner V6 to complete a timing belt change. I can use a impact tool to get it off, but I prefer not to. I also dont know how to torque it back to 181lbs.

I also read to wrap the chain around a bicycle tire inner tube before wrapping around the cranshaft pulley.

thank you

This is what I will be buying from ebay $30 with shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=014

 

If you are removing the oil pan (don't know if you need to on these engines), you can wedge a 2"x2" in between a crank lobe and the block (probably near a corner is best). I did this on a 22r. I was surprised at how easily the crank bolt came out.

 

The cheapest/easiest way to get that sucker off is with the "rope trick".

Get about 5' of nylon rope (clean). Remove a spark plug, and slowly/carefully feed the rope down into teh engine cylinder through the hole. *be sure to leave some hanigng out, lol*.
Now just trurn the crank countclockwise. The rope in the chamber will bblock the piston from going up, stoppping the crank... and if you keep turning the pulley bolt will come right off.

Works every time.

 

thank you for the reply, I am not removing the oil pan...thank goodness. I have never removed one before.

I wanted to try using the chain strap to avoid buying special one off tools just to get the crank bolt off. For instance, I bought a pulley holding tool for my honda accord. Problem is, that is all I can use if for. I figured by purchasing the chain strap, future timing belt changes I can just use the chain strap regards of make and model of the vehicle. I just dont want to use the chain strap if I am going to do more harm just to achieve objective.

 

At work I use an old serpentine belt cut to fit the circumfrence of the crank damper. It's thicker than an inner tube (and free when you replace the belt). It fits all the cars at work (Lexus). I still have someone help me though, don't want to break something else in the process!

 

The rope trick will work fine, although it puts additional pressure on components further removed from the crank such as the rod bushings and bearings. Maybe it's not much worse than the compression in the cylinder??

 

I've never heard this trick before....5 foot rope is very cheap. Does it matter what number spark plug to put the rope into? Would this , well can this damage the piston or other pistons in any way. Cuz, honestly, this sounds pretty awesome idea as long as the rope comes back out..heehehe. How do you deal with the freyed ends of the rope? Do you burn it? Sound great but I want more feedback of this idea. Anyone else on the chain strap question?

 

I'm curious as to why you wouldn't want to use the darn air tool and get it done with?

Otherwise, if it's a manual trans, put it in 5th gear (most resistance), and get someone to sit in the truck with it in 5th gear and flooring the brakes. That should prevent it from moving in order for you to break it loose with a breaker bar. worked for me, only because I didn't have air tools at the time.

 

Are you kidding me? Is it really that simple? Can I use the same proceedure to get it back on to torque specs? Yes, I have a manual. I didnt want to use the 250lb air tool because I was told I need to get it back to torgue. So, can I use the same proceedure to get it back on? I would say so. Can I use my air tool to torque it back on? thanks Chimmike

 

What I would do is get a torque wrench and a torque multiplier. You could use that as well as using the 5th gear/brake method to retorque it on.

Really, if you have to take it off, take it off, not taking it off because you haven't figured out how to put it back to torque spec won't help fix your problem, no?

 

Yeah, I started worrying about torquing it back on. I have seen so many horror stories when the bolt came back off. I did a ebay search on Torque multiplier...I learned two things today. Thanks Chimmike.. I will have to get one. Why do you need a torque wrench and a torque multiplier to get the bolt off as you specified above? I have a torque wrench from Sears, now I have to get the multiplier? Any brands I should look for? Do you have pictures of the torque wrench and multiplier?

 

another easy way to remove it is too remove your spark plugs put a breaker bar on the the bolt and turn over the motor.
took one try after I had fudged with the sucker for a hour.

 

Best one yet... Standing in front of the vehicle facing the engine, which side should the breaker bar be on? Since the crank turns clockwise, should it rest on the ground on the left side? I think I am going to try this technique. I dont want to turn the engine and have the breaker bar in the wrong place.

 

I have used all those tricks... the rope trick is a good one. You can't really cause any damage with that either.

 

I was wondering why no one suggested it. On the 20/22R this is fastest, easiest way to get that bolt off (works supremely well when you're doing valves and forget to take the wrench off, too!). A breaker bar on the crank bolt will sit on the drive's side frame rail and bumping the starter will spin the bolt off no problem. I thought maybe this did not work on the V6 or something.

 

The SSTs were still cheaper than the shop cost to do the work

 

Yeah...DaveInDenver. My teacher. You have taught me so much you probably dont have a clue. Thanks for the pictures

I have a V6 3VZE engine. I dont think it would be any different.

By the way, what is SSTs? What did you mean by that comment eWong. Thanks for the encouragement everyone. Okay, I want to buy the beer. Where do we meet? My treat...lol.

Ariel

 

Exactly thats the way to do it.. and Ive never removed my spark plugs to do it..... why would you? just give it a quick crank so it doesnt start up .... just let the starter do the work

 

Okay, I see that the breaker bar sits on top of the frame. So as the crank turns clockwise, the bolt will be forced to come off. thanks man. The picture is very clear. Thank you for the education.

 

SST = Special Service Tool

Its the goofy things in the FSM (factory service manual) that Toyota uses to take stuff apart.

The tools can be obtained from OTC - but usually via slow boat from Japan.

Way back (before internet!) I had to take the front crank pulley off and basically priced a shop labor cost and just "spent the same" and got the SSTs and DIY (I did alot of other work while in there).

The SST makes it a peice of cake 1 person job - but at a huge expense.

Off the cuff it was oh $300+ in SST (I had some of the SST already as they are used for other things)....

Anyway - its become sort of a running joke becuase NOBODY gets the SSTs.
I was just and idiot and now I have em...

The 22RE being what it is - I havent used em much.