Using a chain strap to get cranshaft bolt off
#21
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 217
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From: Los Angeles, CA - specifically Northridge
Yeah, ewong, nice to have the tools, but I have no place to store them. I try to avoid buying specific tool, but purchase generic ones. As such, I will not be buying the chain strap wrench since I will use the starter breaker wrench method by DaveinDenver. However, I can use this trick and the rope method now I am more educated. Nice to learn and thanks for the Karma. Special thanks to everyone to making me that much smarter.
Ariel
Ariel
#22
Troy
#23
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 217
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From: Los Angeles, CA - specifically Northridge
Troy, which is the coil wire? Is that the center wire on the dizzy cap? I tried searching, but I cannot seem to pinpoint it. Thanks for teaching...I am still learning and appreciate your efforts.
Last edited by arielb1; Aug 27, 2007 at 07:31 PM.
#24
Troy
#26
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 217
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From: Los Angeles, CA - specifically Northridge
thanks all.
#27
Troy, please explain. I read this five times already. I have a wire with alligator clips, but what is free end of the wire? I still dont know what the coil wire is. Assuming I understand you correctly, remove the coil wire to what ever is connected to it and connect it to the frame of the truck. I am assuming this will prevent the car from fully starting. I am doing my best to understand. Thank you for being patient.
thanks all.
thanks all.
Troy
#28
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 217
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From: Los Angeles, CA - specifically Northridge
Okay, thank you Troy65...many many thanks
In summary,
1. dont have to remove all spark plugs
2. remove cable going to center of distributor cap and connect to body of engine via alligator clip. Make sure nothing will spark in garage.
3. place breaker bar as pictured by DaveinDenver
4. Crank (turn over) engine for brief second to remove the crankshaft bolt.
Pull beer in fridge and dedicated to all those that helped me learn to be a better mechanic.
I wish all my teachers could be in the same bar. Oh how I would like to buy beer for everyone (dinner as well for the non drinkers). I am in Southern California near Hollywood come on over! Believe me...money is not the object. It is the wonderful feeling of knowing "I can do it" and "I did it". Thank you and good Karma to all that helped me tonight.
In summary,
1. dont have to remove all spark plugs
2. remove cable going to center of distributor cap and connect to body of engine via alligator clip. Make sure nothing will spark in garage.
3. place breaker bar as pictured by DaveinDenver
4. Crank (turn over) engine for brief second to remove the crankshaft bolt.
Pull beer in fridge and dedicated to all those that helped me learn to be a better mechanic.
I wish all my teachers could be in the same bar. Oh how I would like to buy beer for everyone (dinner as well for the non drinkers). I am in Southern California near Hollywood come on over! Believe me...money is not the object. It is the wonderful feeling of knowing "I can do it" and "I did it". Thank you and good Karma to all that helped me tonight.
#30
Yeah, I started worrying about torquing it back on. I have seen so many horror stories when the bolt came back off. I did a ebay search on Torque multiplier...I learned two things today. Thanks Chimmike.. I will have to get one. Why do you need a torque wrench and a torque multiplier to get the bolt off as you specified above? I have a torque wrench from Sears, now I have to get the multiplier? Any brands I should look for? Do you have pictures of the torque wrench and multiplier?
Don't use the torque wrench to remove the bolt.
Use a breaker bar. The torque multiplier is because i'm quite sure your torque wrench won't go beyond 125 ft-lbs. A multiplier will help you retorque to 181ft-lbs per the factory specs.
#31
You don't have to remove the plugs, but doing so makes it much easier for the starter to turn the engine over. It's also a way to make very sure the engine does not start! Pulling the coil wire, pulling the ignition and EFI fuses and/or disconnecting the battery are also good ideas.
I think you have it down, there's about 6 ways to do most things. Good luck.
I think you have it down, there's about 6 ways to do most things. Good luck.
#32
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Houston (home), Atlanta (school), Cincinnati (work)
You don't have to remove the plugs, but doing so makes it much easier for the starter to turn the engine over. It's also a way to make very sure the engine does not start! Pulling the coil wire, pulling the ignition and EFI fuses and/or disconnecting the battery are also good ideas.
I think you have it down, there's about 6 ways to do most things. Good luck.
I think you have it down, there's about 6 ways to do most things. Good luck.
#33
Well, yeah, there's that. :-) My line of thought was about it not starting and disconnected ground is one way to keep it from starting, although, yeah, makes using the starter sort of hard, eh?
#34
My advice is to use the starter/breaker bar method for removal.
I have a chain wrench ($20 from HF) that I use to hold the pulley when retorquing the crank shaft bolt during reinstallation.
I used the old timing belt to protect the crank pulley when using chain wrench.
Be careful with the chain wrench since you can damage/deform the crank pulley
I have a chain wrench ($20 from HF) that I use to hold the pulley when retorquing the crank shaft bolt during reinstallation.
I used the old timing belt to protect the crank pulley when using chain wrench.
Be careful with the chain wrench since you can damage/deform the crank pulley
#35
put the truck in fifth, engage 4x4 if manual, set emergency brake, have someone hit the brakes and use a 3 foot pipe as an extension to your breaker bar.
piece of cake.
nothing wrong with PB blaster either.
piece of cake.
nothing wrong with PB blaster either.
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