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I wanted some light in my engine bay...
less than $20 and a couple hours to install...
LED lights for $10 at O'Reilly
the top pic is JUST THAT LITTLE LED!!!
Last edited by 87-4runner; Feb 16, 2019 at 07:00 AM.
But most importantly, you really need to get a battery hold down. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...440435140.html Those zip ties aren't going to do bupkus when you hit a good bump; you'll be soaking your engine in battery acid. $19; get one.
But most importantly, you really need to get a battery hold down. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...440435140.html Those zip ties aren't going to do bupkus when you hit a good bump; you'll be soaking your engine in battery acid. $19; get one.
Lol i knew someone would notice and comment... I've been planning on getting a hold down for about 6 years... you guilted me into it... thanks for the link... I'll check our stealership and see if they want to try to rape me...
Last edited by 87-4runner; Feb 16, 2019 at 01:53 PM.
MSRP for the battery hold down is $26.72, and this should be the last time you will ever need to replace one. Also look for the "J" bolt and nut that attaches the hold down bracket to the body of the truck.
MSRP for the battery hold down is $26.72, and this should be the last time you will ever need to replace one. Also look for the "J" bolt and nut that attaches the hold down bracket to the body of the truck.
No need to joke about rape...
Sorry didn't mean to offend or minimize... my filter doesn't work sometimes... wasn't appropriate...
... I'll check our stealership and see if they want to try to rape me...
In my experience (FWIW), brick-and-mortar dealerships have a few price categories. Like, in-house, independent mechanics, savvy owners, and gawd-what-do-I-have-to-do-to-get-rid-of-this-clown. You want to get the price from the best category you can make. You want to impress the counter-woman that you are not going to waste her time or make her do needless work. So print out the diagram of the part, write what you THINK is the right part number on the diagram, and write your VIN right on the diagram. Feel free to write the internet price from Lakeland, but don't be a bone-head about it. A brick and mortar store isn't going to match that price; they don't need to.
My excellent local dealer has never matched an internet price, but I usually get a little better price than they initially quote. You just need the right attitude.
Originally Posted by old87yota
....
No need to joke about rape......
old87yota named the correct part. And the best attitude.
You want to impress the counter-woman that you are not going to waste her time or make her do needless work. So print out the diagram of the part, write what you THINK is the right part number on the diagram, and write your VIN right on the diagram. Feel free to write the internet price from Lakeland, but don't be a bone-head about it. A brick and mortar store isn't going to match that price; they don't need to.
^^ This is what I do. I research the part I am looking for, look at the MSRP to get an idea of what to expect to pay (my favorite local dealer usually charge MSRP prices, if it is less, then great!). Then I print out the part diagram. If the part is too expensive, then I may buy from a dealer with an online store.
Since Toyota's Electronic Parts Catalog is the most accurate when using the VIN, the parts counter person will want to know your VIN to verify part fitment and to practically eliminate selling you the wrong part.
Because of this, I write down my VIN at the top of the parts diagram print out and circle or highlight the part I am looking for. This may seem like you are doing their job for them, but it pretty much eliminates confusion of what part you are looking for. I have not ever received the wrong part doing this. But then again, I am a part junkie...
Thanks gentleman...i have a great rapport with the local dealership and have done lots of business with them for parts... they LOVE my turbo 4 runner..