RatLabGuy

Getting ready to replace the UCA bushings... the old ones are, er, shot... even missing one ;-)
Any particular advice on the quickest way to do this job? Is it possible to get away w/ not completely removing the wheel spindle? Maybe just disconnect the upper BJ and CV at the stub, tie rod etc and tilt the whole thing forward?

I'm hoping that since the old bushing are so worn out they won't be too hard to get out...

(I WAS planning to make this my excuse to jump into Long Travel, but some major home expenses came up teh same day I was going to order it... grrr....)

1993hiluxsr5

Hey, i just replaced my UCA bushings and the easiest way I found was to take the whole arm out with the 3 bolts on the spindle.
Unscrew these 3 unscrew your tbar and take the 2 17mm torsion nuts off the arm then the whole thing slides out.

I was told the new bushings needed pressing in but they just said that so I had to pay them to do it, I got them in easily with a rubber mallet and my hand.
I just bought the rubbers and the inner metal I reused the otter shell becuase these never really wear out, they wanted $350 for the whole bushing(inner and outter cups) but I bought just the inner cup and bushing for $150
Getting the old bushings out is a bit more of a challenge, I just drilled a few small holes and got a small coping saw and cut round it and it worked a treat, out in 5 mins, cleaned it up slide the new bushing in and hammered the inner shell into the bushing with a rubber mallet, it was that easy! No press needed.
Unfortinalty I didnt take any pictures, but if ya get stuck just mail me and I'll help ya best I can.
Good luck. It's pretty easy

erock13

what kind of bushings are they? polyurethane or rubber?

1993hiluxsr5

Poly, theyre solid

RatLabGuy

Mine are poly, got them from Blazeland.

BlazeN8

Blazeland rebuilds UCAs and LCAs in the standard length as well as the Long Arms. The standard length UCAs are $300 and the standard length LCAs are $300 plus a $100 core deposit for each. I completly rebuild them. This involves a a burn recovery, sandblast, and new powdercoat finish. The steel sleeves and washers are re-zinc coated. The bushings will be poly. Poly bushings are full-floating, non-binding- that really allow the arms to flex and not constrict articulation and chunk apart like the factoty rubber ones. Once the poly bushings are installed you can service the bushings yourself the next time. Servicing the stock rubber bushings is not a user friendly experience.

wii_tarded

I already have all control arms off of my truck and have been debating on the poly vs. factory bushings for a few weeks now. I have heard several complaints that the poly bushings make ALOT of noise. Granted that has been mainly for the Energy Suspension poly. Is there any difference between theirs and the Blazeland stuff?

BlazeN8

Blazeland bushings are Energy Suspension. All poly bushings will squeak if you do not prepare the arms correctly and install the bushings with the recommended lubricants. There will also be some maintenance every so often to re-apply lubricant as it wears away. The rubber bushings will be quieter, but the articulation will also be limited. Fine for street use but under extreme off road abuse the rubber will chunk apart.

wii_tarded

What does this maint. involve? Complete removal of the arm? What is the proper lube to use on poly? If I can get enough info, this may save me a load of money trying to put my truck back on the road.

RatLabGuy

Blaze (or others), how do you "torch" the old bushings out? Literally just burn them until there isn't much left and them pull it out? Stinky mess lol. I've tried pushing with a c-clamp, can't find a good angle to press it straight... don't have a press...
I'm going to try 1993hiluxsr5's approach of drilling a bunch of small holes

4bangercraig

Hey, I'd recommend uninstalling the TBar before unbolting the arm. Did the arm first one time and pinned my hand when the tbar unloaded and launched the arm upward into the fender well.

RatLabGuy

^^ Oh yeah, definitely - there's a LOT of tension on that sucker, definitely have to back off the T-bar adjusting bolts first.
Actually on mine I found the bolt were frozen onto the lower crescent guide pin that is between teh bolt head and the frame mount. Makes turning it really interesting, lol and fine-adjustment impossible. So, I realize they had to be replaced and cut them off anyway... another $50 and a trip to the dealer I wasn't planning...

I did get the bushings out. I used a method similar to what 1993hiluxsr5 suggested - I used drill and drilled a whole bunch of holes in the bushings around the "rim", this did 2 things for me. 1 - bade it easy to then pound the centers out w/ a hammer and thegt them out, and (2) I didn't get new metal centers so I have to re-use these.
The factory ones have the rubber glued to the metal collar so if you plan to re-use them, you have to ground/sand all that stuff off.