Twisted's GM alternator swap
#1
Twisted's GM alternator swap
I will be using an si12 delco alternator.
The reason im doing the GM swap is because i need an alternator and have no money, but my family has a few GM alternators laying around the shop. So it will cost me little to nothing. and im just invested in the labor.
wiring diagram
For the swap i am connecting:
the GM post 1 to the yellow wire on the stock yota plug.
The GM post 2 is connected to the B+ terminal or wire.
and the Red and White wires in the yota plug will not be used.
now the alternators are differant shape and the yota alt pulley sticks a 1/4in farther out. so most peopl would either have to cut the lower alt mount and extend it or make a new one.
we came up with a differant route.
we pulled the pulley off and added a 1/4 gold shim behide in and put the pulley back on.
also like stated above the cases are differant size and shape. the GM lower mounting ear is shorter so shims had to me added behind the alt to make it fit snug in the bracket. in the picture the shims arent installed but u can see the gap.
.
tht is all i have to day. i do try to install it and the upper adjustment bracket is in the way so i will remove it and see what i can do. i will edit it tomarrow to add it in.
The reason im doing the GM swap is because i need an alternator and have no money, but my family has a few GM alternators laying around the shop. So it will cost me little to nothing. and im just invested in the labor.
wiring diagram
For the swap i am connecting:
the GM post 1 to the yellow wire on the stock yota plug.
The GM post 2 is connected to the B+ terminal or wire.
and the Red and White wires in the yota plug will not be used.
now the alternators are differant shape and the yota alt pulley sticks a 1/4in farther out. so most peopl would either have to cut the lower alt mount and extend it or make a new one.
we came up with a differant route.
we pulled the pulley off and added a 1/4 gold shim behide in and put the pulley back on.
also like stated above the cases are differant size and shape. the GM lower mounting ear is shorter so shims had to me added behind the alt to make it fit snug in the bracket. in the picture the shims arent installed but u can see the gap.
.
tht is all i have to day. i do try to install it and the upper adjustment bracket is in the way so i will remove it and see what i can do. i will edit it tomarrow to add it in.
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 342
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I did the CS144 install on mine after a trip through a wet mud hole killed my stock Yota one. Works great and i set it up so it is direct plug and play deal. Just got a shorter belt and it worked great.
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#8
Registered User
#9
Registered User
If you look at your typical Toyota Alternator it's case is very much open. The GM not so much. Not saying it's completely waterproof just much more water/mud resistant.
#10
Registered User
#11
got some more work done.
here is the old alternator bracket
and another yota bracket tht i will be using
as you can see, the brackets are the same except the one i originally had had extra support
cut the slider portiopn off the bracket. it was just about 1/4in to short
and then welded it to anothe bracket tht was the same, i just cut part of the slider off thise one so my slider would fit.
but my unlce welded it fully on accident before i was able to make sur it fit.
and it didnt fit right.
we welded the slider on the front of the bracket when we needed to weld it on the back to make it a flat peice of metal in sense.
so i put it in the vis and hit it with the hammer and bent it to fit. so it now bends toward the cab
the original belt(7345 i believe) is a hair to small to get on
and 7355 is to big so i would need a 7350. but i have no money hence the swap.
but i was able to make the original belt work because i had removed the fan to get to the original alternator bracket. so i put the belt on and slide the fan pulley on and bolted the fan down and then tightend the alternator.
i then took my gm pulg tht had a spade on on a wire for post one and plugged it in to the socket for the yellow wire(charge light) on the yota plug.
and also hooked the B+ wire.
started it and im getting 14.2 volts, but like most people have stated in the gm swaps the alternator doesnt like to start charging unitl the RPM's are around700-800. so if your vehicle idles lower then tht the charge light will stay until u rev it up. after the first rev i goes away.
the only problem i ran into tht i havent read about is my charge light says on but is super super dim. i will do some tests tomarrow with one of our machines and get back to you all about it tomarrow.
here is the old alternator bracket
and another yota bracket tht i will be using
as you can see, the brackets are the same except the one i originally had had extra support
cut the slider portiopn off the bracket. it was just about 1/4in to short
and then welded it to anothe bracket tht was the same, i just cut part of the slider off thise one so my slider would fit.
but my unlce welded it fully on accident before i was able to make sur it fit.
and it didnt fit right.
we welded the slider on the front of the bracket when we needed to weld it on the back to make it a flat peice of metal in sense.
so i put it in the vis and hit it with the hammer and bent it to fit. so it now bends toward the cab
the original belt(7345 i believe) is a hair to small to get on
and 7355 is to big so i would need a 7350. but i have no money hence the swap.
but i was able to make the original belt work because i had removed the fan to get to the original alternator bracket. so i put the belt on and slide the fan pulley on and bolted the fan down and then tightend the alternator.
i then took my gm pulg tht had a spade on on a wire for post one and plugged it in to the socket for the yellow wire(charge light) on the yota plug.
and also hooked the B+ wire.
started it and im getting 14.2 volts, but like most people have stated in the gm swaps the alternator doesnt like to start charging unitl the RPM's are around700-800. so if your vehicle idles lower then tht the charge light will stay until u rev it up. after the first rev i goes away.
the only problem i ran into tht i havent read about is my charge light says on but is super super dim. i will do some tests tomarrow with one of our machines and get back to you all about it tomarrow.
#16
i hooked up a tester today; and my alternator is putting out 14.29v, diodes are good and so is the regulator. the only thing is it says it was in a 20-50A range.
i have another alternator tht i may try to put on and see how it does. but right now the weather is windy an cold and it might rain here tomarrow so im putting tht on hold.
i have another alternator tht i may try to put on and see how it does. but right now the weather is windy an cold and it might rain here tomarrow so im putting tht on hold.
#17
ok got some work done to the scav and i figured out why my charge lit would stay on but was super dim.
after putting a differant alternator on and my light went away i tested the newest-to-me one. and found a differance in the 2
the 1st one when tested said it was good but put 20-50A
while the second one tested good also but puts out over 50A
so with reason i have come to the conclusion tht the first alternator was putting out less then the 40A the stock yota one did and causing the light to come on.
but since the alternator is still good and works im going to keep it as a spare just incase, at least i know it will get me home.
after putting a differant alternator on and my light went away i tested the newest-to-me one. and found a differance in the 2
the 1st one when tested said it was good but put 20-50A
while the second one tested good also but puts out over 50A
so with reason i have come to the conclusion tht the first alternator was putting out less then the 40A the stock yota one did and causing the light to come on.
but since the alternator is still good and works im going to keep it as a spare just incase, at least i know it will get me home.
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