Trying to remove TPS screws
#1
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Trying to remove TPS screws
I need to adjust the TPS, so I bought 4crawlers replacement screws. I was able to remove the top one easily, but can't get the bottom one. I think I started to strip it so I stopped.
Anyone remove it while it's on the vehicle? Any tips. I was using a regular screw driver with a vice-grip for leverage. It worked great on the top screw.
Any tool I could buy to make this easier?
If I need to remove the TB, do I need to get a gasket? I only ask because right now I don't have any radiator fluid because I just changed the radiator and I think there's a cooling line connected to the TB.
Anyone remove it while it's on the vehicle? Any tips. I was using a regular screw driver with a vice-grip for leverage. It worked great on the top screw.
Any tool I could buy to make this easier?
If I need to remove the TB, do I need to get a gasket? I only ask because right now I don't have any radiator fluid because I just changed the radiator and I think there's a cooling line connected to the TB.
#2
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I've always removed the Throttle Body to adjust the TPS.
You might get lucky and not have to replace the gasket.
I think it works this way - if you have a spare gasket the old one will be fine - if you don't have a gasket then the old one will tear.
Don't worry about antifreeze. Just a couple of ounces comes out.
You might get lucky and not have to replace the gasket.
I think it works this way - if you have a spare gasket the old one will be fine - if you don't have a gasket then the old one will tear.
Don't worry about antifreeze. Just a couple of ounces comes out.
#4
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They are a bear to get out the first time. Best thing to do is remove the throttle body and put it on a bench so you can work on it with more leverage. Yes, you will need a gasket if it has been on there since the factory. Rubber coated gasket will delaminate when you take it off, unfortunately.
I have a tool that I use on rounded screws that works great. I bought it at Harbor Freight. It is a driver that is meant to be hit with a hammer. When you strike it, there is a cam mechanism that puts rotation on the driver at the same time it is being forced down by the hammer. I think the term is a hand impact screwdiver. It pops those pesky rounded phillips heads right out.
There are two coolant lines attached to the throttle body. They are far easier to remove after you have unbolted the throttle body and removed the vacuum lines and throttle/trans cables. You can then pull the throttle body out a bit and rotate it to get better access to the clamps on the lines.
Good luck
I have a tool that I use on rounded screws that works great. I bought it at Harbor Freight. It is a driver that is meant to be hit with a hammer. When you strike it, there is a cam mechanism that puts rotation on the driver at the same time it is being forced down by the hammer. I think the term is a hand impact screwdiver. It pops those pesky rounded phillips heads right out.
There are two coolant lines attached to the throttle body. They are far easier to remove after you have unbolted the throttle body and removed the vacuum lines and throttle/trans cables. You can then pull the throttle body out a bit and rotate it to get better access to the clamps on the lines.
Good luck
Last edited by OutlawMike; 10-15-2009 at 09:34 AM.
#5
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And if you do end up removing the TB to adjust the TPS invest in this -
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...llenHeadScrews
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...llenHeadScrews
#6
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thx everyone....looks like I'm getting a gasket at lunch today....hmmm I didn't think about adjusting/testing it on the bench....that will make it easier...
Boost...yup...I already have the top screw changed.
Boost...yup...I already have the top screw changed.
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