Try Amsoil!
#21
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I'm not sure about Canadian pricing, but with my preferred customer discount, Amsoil is as cheap as synthetics you can get in the store.
If you have an auto tranny, you've got to try the ATF. I put that in my Corolla at 80,000 miles & immediately noticed much smoother shifting.
2 years later & now with 112,000 miles its still smooth & running great.
I'm getting ready to do the ATF change in my 4Runner next.
If you have an auto tranny, you've got to try the ATF. I put that in my Corolla at 80,000 miles & immediately noticed much smoother shifting.
2 years later & now with 112,000 miles its still smooth & running great.
I'm getting ready to do the ATF change in my 4Runner next.
#25
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The closest Amsoil comes to "regular" (mineral or "dino") oil is their synthetic blends. But I believe they only make Diesel synthetic blends and all other oils are 100% synthetic.
#26
I believe North Shore Off Road in North Vancouver carries Amsoil. I'm due for an oil change in September or so, perhaps I'll give Amsoil a try. Scott, if you do another bulk order of Amsoil let me know.
#27
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I can order oil anytime - it doesn't have to be a huge bulk order. I can order cases, or individual units, it's all shipped the same. How often are you changing your oil - you're not do for a change before that?
Scott
#28
I figure an oil change every 9 months should be alright with synthetic. I don't do alot of stop and go traffic and I seldom run the truck less that 10km.
I can't say "I'm a commited Mobile 1 customer" because I haven't tried anything else (except cheap Lordco dino after the HG/ T-chain for 500km). I'll give Amsoil 10W30 and Amsoil cleaner a shot this fall.
Thanks for passing this info on Scott.
I can't say "I'm a commited Mobile 1 customer" because I haven't tried anything else (except cheap Lordco dino after the HG/ T-chain for 500km). I'll give Amsoil 10W30 and Amsoil cleaner a shot this fall.
Thanks for passing this info on Scott.
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I just did another Amsoil order and I bought a case of 12 quarts for a buddy (Jay351) and after taxes and shipping it worked out to exactly $7.85 per quart.
If I bought the same oil locally at Canadian Tire they charge $11.19 per quart after tax ($9.99 plus 12% tax - PST & GST)
If I bought the same oil locally at Canadian Tire they charge $11.19 per quart after tax ($9.99 plus 12% tax - PST & GST)
#31
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how bout castrol syntec.i use it in both 4runners & pick up,switched the 97 runner at 125k,truck at 120k,91 4runner after 3000 miles on rblt engine.fuel mileage increased on the 97,i think the only wat to get better fuel mileage on the 91 is to to tow it
#32
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Amsoil in my opinion is the best there is. My whole family uses it and we all change our oil once a year. We had a old Honda (85/86) that went to 330k miles using amsoil and we finally got rid of it due to a bad ignition switch...it was a pretty cool car...lol. Amsoil products are very good...and I definitely recommend them. My brothers has an oil bypass kit on his Honda...not sure if it works because he only drives like 5 miles a day...but his car is almost up to 200k...and still runs great (this is an 86 Accord)
#34
I'll try Amsoil this fall.
#36
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Amsoil is pretty good oil, however I like Redline better.
Remember that you should always use the thinnest oil possible.
Always use a 0 - xx or 5 - xx multigrade.
Even a 0 - xx is too thick at startup to provide proper lubrication.
A 40 wt (xx - 40) should never be used without a specific reason.
Fred
Remember that you should always use the thinnest oil possible.
Always use a 0 - xx or 5 - xx multigrade.
Even a 0 - xx is too thick at startup to provide proper lubrication.
A 40 wt (xx - 40) should never be used without a specific reason.
Fred
#37
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While I don't personally change my oil once a year, Amsoil actually RECOMMENDS changing your oil once per year (or 25,000 miles for normal service, less for severe service I believe) with most of their synthetic oils (check the instructions on the back to make sure yours is guaranteed for this interval before doing so obviously). Amsoil is also the only synthetic oil manufacturer I know if that backs their products against lubrication related failures with a warranty. I also believe you need to use one of their oil filters to get the warranty.
I'm sure the inside of his motor is in pretty good shape right now.
If you're leary of going to oil changes once per year, then try doing an oil analysis once every 3-4 monthes. Yes, Oil analysis isn't cheap, but if you want to prove or disprove to yourself that Amsoil's claims are true or not true, at least it'll give you some solid information to stand behind. But I'm sure there are probably plenty of threads over at Bob is the Oil Guy with guys details of the oil analysis they had. I've thought about having an oil analysis done just to see what kinda shape my engine is in. Might be something worth doing for others in here towards what they think is the end of their oils life just to see if they could push it longer?
I disagree that you should use the thinnest oil possible. There are benefits to staying to a 10w30 over a 0w30 or 5w30. Yes a 0w30 would be beneficial in the winter for better cold morning start ups, but 10w30 synthetic has significanly better cold start up properties than virtually all conventional oils, and 10w30 oil is a more stable oil than 0w30 and 5w30.
Last edited by CoedNaked; 03-31-2008 at 04:15 PM.
#38
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I disagree that you should use the thinnest oil possible. There are benefits to staying to a 10w30 over a 0w30 or 5w30.
Yes a 0w30 would be beneficial in the winter for better cold morning start ups, but 10w30 synthetic has significanly better cold start up properties than virtually all conventional oils,
Now there is a HUGE difference between mineral and synthetic oil and how it's made, flows, etc., but that not withstanding, a 10 weight (or 0 weight or 30 weight, whatever) still has to flow a certain amount at certain given temperatures.
and 10w30 oil is a more stable oil than 0w30 and 5w30.
Stable in what sense ?
Fred
#39
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I can't say the 15k/m for M1 or the 25k/m for Amsoil is what I'd go with, but I have no reason to exaggerate the benefits and/or claims of synthetic oil within my experience. I CAN tell you without a doubt you can go atleast twice the recommended interval as dino under most circumstances if you change the oil and air filter as you should. Also, if you don't have excessive blow by. That will kill your pretty, clean synthetic quick enough.
I'm real curious to see how long synthetics will go with a newly rebuilt motor......after the break in period, of course.
(No, I'm not breaking my motor in on synthetic. Not only not a good idea for the rings, but a total waste of money.)
#40
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While the warranty is a nice "warm, fuzzy, feel good", in reality it's not a huge deal. Engine problems caused by "lubrication failure" is almost unheard of, assuming that the oil is changed as recommended.
What, specifically, are the "benefits" to staying with a 10W30 or 5W30, over say a 0W30 or even a 0W20 ?
You are aware, aren't you, that the flow characteristics of any weight oil as looked at by the weight, such as 10 or 30 or whatever, are the same, regardless of mineral or synthetic oil. The flow criteria that a oil must meet to be called, say a 30 weight, are the same regardless of the type (dino or synthetic).
Now there is a HUGE difference between mineral and synthetic oil and how it's made, flows, etc., but that not withstanding, a 10 weight (or 0 weight or 30 weight, whatever) still has to flow a certain amount at certain given temperatures.
What in the world are you talking about ?
Stable in what sense ?
Fred
What, specifically, are the "benefits" to staying with a 10W30 or 5W30, over say a 0W30 or even a 0W20 ?
You are aware, aren't you, that the flow characteristics of any weight oil as looked at by the weight, such as 10 or 30 or whatever, are the same, regardless of mineral or synthetic oil. The flow criteria that a oil must meet to be called, say a 30 weight, are the same regardless of the type (dino or synthetic).
Now there is a HUGE difference between mineral and synthetic oil and how it's made, flows, etc., but that not withstanding, a 10 weight (or 0 weight or 30 weight, whatever) still has to flow a certain amount at certain given temperatures.
What in the world are you talking about ?
Stable in what sense ?
Fred
Stable in the sense that it (10w30) resists burn off better, and it hangs around the middle of it's operating temp viscocity range as opposed to it's slightly thinner at operating temp 0w30 weight oil. These characteristics are better for higher mileage engines especially. Some of the reading I have done over the years suggests that the bigger the difference between the cold and hot viscocity, the more additives you have to put in your oil to compensate for thsoe differences, and over time additives wear out. Here is an interesting link related to the subject: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/292095