I'm not sure about Canadian pricing, but with my preferred customer discount, Amsoil is as cheap as synthetics you can get in the store.

If you have an auto tranny, you've got to try the ATF. I put that in my Corolla at 80,000 miles & immediately noticed much smoother shifting.
2 years later & now with 112,000 miles its still smooth & running great.

I'm getting ready to do the ATF change in my 4Runner next.

 

Is Amsoil API certified yet?

 

If it is I haven't heard about it.

 

Do they make Amsoil in regular oil, not syn.

 

The closest Amsoil comes to "regular" (mineral or "dino") oil is their synthetic blends. But I believe they only make Diesel synthetic blends and all other oils are 100% synthetic.

 

I believe North Shore Off Road in North Vancouver carries Amsoil. I'm due for an oil change in September or so, perhaps I'll give Amsoil a try. Scott, if you do another bulk order of Amsoil let me know.

 

Matt,

I can order oil anytime - it doesn't have to be a huge bulk order. I can order cases, or individual units, it's all shipped the same. How often are you changing your oil - you're not do for a change before that?

Scott

 

I figure an oil change every 9 months should be alright with synthetic. I don't do alot of stop and go traffic and I seldom run the truck less that 10km.

I can't say "I'm a commited Mobile 1 customer" because I haven't tried anything else (except cheap Lordco dino after the HG/ T-chain for 500km). I'll give Amsoil 10W30 and Amsoil cleaner a shot this fall.

Thanks for passing this info on Scott.

 

I just did another Amsoil order and I bought a case of 12 quarts for a buddy (Jay351) and after taxes and shipping it worked out to exactly $7.85 per quart.

If I bought the same oil locally at Canadian Tire they charge $11.19 per quart after tax ($9.99 plus 12% tax - PST & GST)

 

Matt if you like Mobil-1 (like me) you'll love Amsoil. I used it in my dirt bike way back when & that is some fantastic stuff.

 

how bout castrol syntec.i use it in both 4runners & pick up,switched the 97 runner at 125k,truck at 120k,91 4runner after 3000 miles on rblt engine.fuel mileage increased on the 97,i think the only wat to get better fuel mileage on the 91 is to to tow it

 

i dont care what oil you run, oil changes should still be done AT LEAST every 3-4000 miles. changing oil once a year.. id be scared to see the inside of your motor...

 

And at five miles a day he's been driving every day for 109 years to reach 200k

 

I can't say I love it or hate it. I did enough engine work around the time of e oil change to mask any noticeable differences between really cheap dino (used to flush out the crap after a rebuild) and Mobile 1 10W30. I did notice I have higher oil pressure faster as a result of the 10W30.

I'll try Amsoil this fall.

 

Im looking forward to what amsoil will do to my rig.
Thanks again Scott!

 

Amsoil is pretty good oil, however I like Redline better.
Remember that you should always use the thinnest oil possible.
Always use a 0 - xx or 5 - xx multigrade.
Even a 0 - xx is too thick at startup to provide proper lubrication.
A 40 wt (xx - 40) should never be used without a specific reason.




Fred

 

While I don't personally change my oil once a year, Amsoil actually RECOMMENDS changing your oil once per year (or 25,000 miles for normal service, less for severe service I believe) with most of their synthetic oils (check the instructions on the back to make sure yours is guaranteed for this interval before doing so obviously). Amsoil is also the only synthetic oil manufacturer I know if that backs their products against lubrication related failures with a warranty. I also believe you need to use one of their oil filters to get the warranty.

I'm sure the inside of his motor is in pretty good shape right now.

If you're leary of going to oil changes once per year, then try doing an oil analysis once every 3-4 monthes. Yes, Oil analysis isn't cheap, but if you want to prove or disprove to yourself that Amsoil's claims are true or not true, at least it'll give you some solid information to stand behind. But I'm sure there are probably plenty of threads over at Bob is the Oil Guy with guys details of the oil analysis they had. I've thought about having an oil analysis done just to see what kinda shape my engine is in. Might be something worth doing for others in here towards what they think is the end of their oils life just to see if they could push it longer?

I disagree that you should use the thinnest oil possible. There are benefits to staying to a 10w30 over a 0w30 or 5w30. Yes a 0w30 would be beneficial in the winter for better cold morning start ups, but 10w30 synthetic has significanly better cold start up properties than virtually all conventional oils, and 10w30 oil is a more stable oil than 0w30 and 5w30.

 

While the warranty is a nice "warm, fuzzy, feel good", in reality it's not a huge deal. Engine problems caused by "lubrication failure" is almost unheard of, assuming that the oil is changed as recommended.



What, specifically, are the "benefits" to staying with a 10W30 or 5W30, over say a 0W30 or even a 0W20 ?




You are aware, aren't you, that the flow characteristics of any weight oil as looked at by the weight, such as 10 or 30 or whatever, are the same, regardless of mineral or synthetic oil. The flow criteria that a oil must meet to be called, say a 30 weight, are the same regardless of the type (dino or synthetic).
Now there is a HUGE difference between mineral and synthetic oil and how it's made, flows, etc., but that not withstanding, a 10 weight (or 0 weight or 30 weight, whatever) still has to flow a certain amount at certain given temperatures.



What in the world are you talking about ?
Stable in what sense ?




Fred

 

For the past 6+ years I've changed my oil once a year (with intermediate filter changes), which has always beem less than the recommended mileage interval for the synthetics I've used....Amsoil and M1. And, I do alot of hauling, towing, and hill climbing. Recently,I tore my engine apart and my motor looked really damn good for 220k miles. The tolerances and wear patterns were all well within acceptable ranges and I could've continued on as was. But, since I needed new rings and a timing chain ass'y, I went ahead put new main and rod bearings in, as well. As far as the cam journals, bearings, and saddles there was no need to touch any of it and so reinstalled it. All in perfect shape.

I can't say the 15k/m for M1 or the 25k/m for Amsoil is what I'd go with, but I have no reason to exaggerate the benefits and/or claims of synthetic oil within my experience. I CAN tell you without a doubt you can go atleast twice the recommended interval as dino under most circumstances if you change the oil and air filter as you should. Also, if you don't have excessive blow by. That will kill your pretty, clean synthetic quick enough.

I'm real curious to see how long synthetics will go with a newly rebuilt motor......after the break in period, of course.

(No, I'm not breaking my motor in on synthetic. Not only not a good idea for the rings, but a total waste of money.)

 

This warm fuzzy feeling you speak of - why can't Redline or Mobil one or Royal Purple or other synthetic manufacturers offer this same warm fuzzy feeling? Why can't they not only recommend annual oil changes if you want (as long as it's within the mileage rating), but also back it with a warranty as well? Part of me wonders if it's because the other synthetic oil manufacturers utilize Moly in their oils where as Amsoil will not touch this for their synthetic oils. Here is a link just for a little bit of information behind Moly and it's utilization in oils related to extended drain intervals. You may call it propoganda if you want but I think theres probably some truth behind it too. I know for a fact Mobil one (and Royal Purplse as the article states) use Moly - does Redline use it in their synthetic oils? http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html

Stable in the sense that it (10w30) resists burn off better, and it hangs around the middle of it's operating temp viscocity range as opposed to it's slightly thinner at operating temp 0w30 weight oil. These characteristics are better for higher mileage engines especially. Some of the reading I have done over the years suggests that the bigger the difference between the cold and hot viscocity, the more additives you have to put in your oil to compensate for thsoe differences, and over time additives wear out. Here is an interesting link related to the subject: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/292095