all of this happened when i first got it and the slave was bad so i kept dumpin dot 3 in it but then, it worked fine, but one day going through town i ran it out and it wouldnt work. so i got some dot 3 and filled it up. still didnt work, got home (with no clutch) and bled it but still no clutch

 

I agree with the clutch bracket. Mine did the same thing, squeaked when you pressed the pedal down, gears hard to change.

They are a known weak spot. Look up under the dash and see if you can spot a small crack along the left side of the clutch bracket. It's tough to do and you'll probably want a mirror and a flashlight.

 

Clutch plate may have broke.

 

I got a 1990 toyota pickup. recently i noticed that it was getting hard to shift into gear, it was really resistant. reverse went out, when i tried to put reverse in it would just grind. then later that day there was no resistance in my clutch. When i push my clutch in and try to put it into gear they wont go in but there is no grinding. when truck is turned off the gears go in. the only way to turn my truck on is to press the clutch button. can anyone help?

 

Read this thread below...cracked clutch bracket for me:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-203075/

 

yeah, just went through the same thing; either cracked clutch plate, inside on the drivers' floorboard. Bad slave clutch cyl. both of the above can be seen; either yourself by getting down near the feet, and inspecting the clutch plate, or have someone go underneath. while you move your clutch pedal, you should see the piston move about 2 inches, on the slave, which is on the front of the tranny housing on the passenger side. you should see it move in and out, and it should not have goo all over it, neither should it's rubber bushing be filled with goo. If it is not the above, or some combo, then it is tranny rebuild time; do the whole thing- entire clutch kit assy., and the tranny. And do the slave cyl as well.... If you have not done the starter, might as well get that too.
So for a replacement desno starter, say 200 bucks, 20 bucks for a good/not chinese slave cyl, another 240 to 300 bucks in clutch kit parts, and 500 in parts for the tranny rebuild. That is the cost, if you do it yourself. About a grand, add another grand for a shop to do all the work. Proly more than what you paid for your rig...

 

i have the same problem, clutch wont disengage. i checked the bracket and it was broken at some point, someone welded it, but it still seems to flex a bit. i know it shouldnt flex but if my clutch slave cylinder still moves the clutch fork should it matter?

ive changed the master cylinder, slave cylinder, rubber pressure line, and hard line. there are no leaks and there is no air in the system. ive set the proper pedal height, and tightened all the tranny bolts. i have a friend pres the clutch while im under it and the slave cylinder moves the fork about 2''. any more suggestions before i drop the tranny?

 

Make sure that the WHOLE fork is moving. It's hard to see under the truck with bad lighting obviously and your clutch fork may be cracked in the middle.
so when you crawl underneath and have someone push on the pedal, you see the fork move so you think "ok,it's fine, the fork is moving" ,but it's only half the fork that's moving because it's just flexing in the middle because of the crack. It happened on my friend's truck and we didn't catch it the first time because of this scenario.

 

thats a good point but i took the boot off the fork and shone a flashlight in there to make sure. the whole fork moves . so i dropped the tranny last night. i ordered my clutch kit from parts source and never asked about different brands that they carry. so i ended up getting a "DynaPak" made by "Fenco". anyone had experience with this brand or clutch kit just outta curiosity. the clutch disc feels soooooo light...must be carbon-ceramic lol

 

i have a 91 3vze and i just replaced the throwout bearing and clutch assymbly and had the flywheel surfaced. i also replaced the slave cylinder but when i put it in gear and depress the clutch pedal it still jumps forward any ideas

 

Get a good clutch assembly and be done with it. There's not a lot going on down there. If your truck isn't a total turd the firewall should be easy to check. Maybe a 5min job.

 

What's up fellow yota owners?! I have an issue with my 89 toy, I have just put a new clutch kit in my truck and it would not go into any gear with the engine started, but when u kill the motar it will go into gear. So I went an bought a new slave ceylender and a master cycle, after adjusting and bleeding the lines the dang thing still won't go Into gear while motor is running?? Can someone help?!

 

You did not do something correctly. Have you tried searching?

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Pedal free-play adjusted correctly? Clutch disk in the correct direction?

 

Mine does it. I replaced the clutch and throwout bearing and pilot bearing. It still does it with a brand new slave and master cylinder. Ill try bleeding it again. But it deffinitley needs to be adjusted

 

Did you check clutch bracket?

 

i just did a clutch job but didnt replace the fork. had to clean it up but it didnt look out of the norm. my runner is staying in gear also. same as above. i'll be rechecking the fork in motion inside the bell housing. ive replaced the master and slave btw.

 

Going through this now on my 92 4x4 22re DLX Pickup!

After reading several of these threads, I went and looked at my CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET.

It seems to be cracked. How about that?

I'm glad there are a few people who have enough experience to start with the easy stuff before telling someone to replace an entire system.

 

First thing to check is if the master cylinder reservoir is full of fluid. Could be nothing more than low fluid if you haven't checked in a while (or ever).

 

Why the trans rebuild? Mine shifted before it started slipping and it slipped because of oil saturation on the disc and pres plate.