Hello, this is my first post and i love the forums, i have been searching and reading for about a week now and have learned a TON already..
there are multiple posts that are quite similar to the problems that i am having, but i wanted some direct input on the codes i am kicking out and problems that i am dealing with.
i will try to be as detailed as possible without saying too much.
I love the forum and really appreciate all the advice yall have to offer.
this is what i got going on..\
89 extra cab 4x4 5spd man 33in tires with 22re motor 250,000 on body, 50,000 on rebulit motor.

when i purchased the truck it ran great, my buddy told me that the IACV was going bad because when the truck would warm up it would want to stall at prolonged idle. it would not stall ALL the time, just kind of intermitint problem like if it idled for 10 min. i have kind of ignored it..
about two weeks ago it started to run VERY poorly
i have to rev the motor up to 3,000rpms to get her moving and she lacks power throughout all the gears. once it is moving it will run down the road OK, but it really wants to run in 3rd gear to get up to and maintain 65. fourth gear will slowly fall off and i will be doing 50 at best unless going downhill. going up any sizable hill will bog the truck down and before i know it i am in second trying to maintain 45-50mph
when i am accelerating i can hear sputtering through the exhaust, like it is bogging out.
turning on my heater will make the RPM's drop for a second and the truck will pulse/jump hard one time.
if you let off the gas with clutch pushed in.. it dies right away, no attempt to idle at all.
if i roll up to a stop and it dies, the truck will crank and crank and crank but will not restart for couple of min.. when it does start it is a slow process almost like it is slowly building fuel pressure.
here are the codes that it kicks out.
24 intake air temp sensor signal
31 air flow meter signal
41 throttle position sensor
42vehicule speed sensor
51 switch signal
71 egr system
from the resources i have searched on this forum already i have checked the following:
VAFM test with multimeter.. it seems to be good
TPS tested.. some werid readings here.. it is reading OL from slightly cracked through all the way to WOT ( this part seems bad to me) but have seen many other posts where this part has been replaced with nothing being improved.
plugs wires distrubitor are all checked and good.
cleaned air filter
did fuel pump jumper test while fuel line was disconnected at fuel rail, i can hear and see that there is good pressure.
fuel injector cleaner
used propane torch to check for vaccum leaks and found none
my fuel mileage also is around 12mpg

i hope i have covered enough to get some help here.. i am stumped.. i am an old skool guy, my 70 nova does not have all this emission stuff on it and i am beyond confused... i am also poor right now which is preventing me from going out and throwing some parts at it..
please help narrow this multi dimensional problem down.. to a couple parts that it may be.. i am in bay area CA and can offer trade/payment for anyone that wants to give me a hand.. thanks so much.. i am already addicted to this forum... MIKE

 

1: test the sensors
2: test the wiring
3: find a loaner computer to test with

Replace the TPS and proceed to step #2.

Don't forget to make sure all the plugs/pig-tails are clean and fully seated

Re-read the test proceedures a few times. If anythings still not clear say what you're having problems with specificly and someone can clear it up for you.

Which test, eg which terminals.
Vcc-E2 is constant. (3900 - 9400)
Vta-E2 is a sweep from closed to open throttle, a smooth wave.
Idl-E2 is a switch it's either open or low resistance(2300 Ohm or less)

If you mean Idl-E2 it's either mal-adjusted or broken. Don't forget to squeeze the throttle shut at the throttle opener.

 

For the TPS..
Test #
1- vta - E2= 477
2- idl - E2 with .57mm shim = O.L
3. Idl - E2 with .85mm shim O.L
4 idl - E2 WOT. Is O.L

For the vamf testing
All of the static tests pass within regs, when you do the dynamic testing it moves up and peaks around 700 after you get the vane wide open it settles around 470 that was the part that seemed weird.. it makes more sense for it to stay around 700 and not drop off??
I found a computer at pick n pull.. along with the door handle that has been broken for a month.. YAY.. no more passenger side entrance!!
Thanks for the input..

I am guessing replace TPS?

 

Did it sweep ok(VTA-E) ?
Try adjusting it first, no sense throw good parts away. and if it doesn't ever close that switch you have it half way off already.

That is slightly odd, but could be due to holding the probes probe slip ect.
Use clips if you have them. Or borrow some extra hands and to it a few times.

Start with the TPS adjustment/replacement.

Then the AFM, Can't hurt it much more than "already wanting to replace it", crack it open and hit it with the tv tuner stuff and some canned air.

Not sure about the rest of those codes. I think the ecu grounds are right there on the passenger side apron, can't hurt to make sure its clean and tight.

 

By sweep I am taking that to mean test by sweeping from open to close?
I adjusted the tps.
Now when I check it at the VTA E2 it is at 440.. is that close enough to the prescribed 470?

I am going to try the area pick n pulls for a TPS tomorrow.. I am going to search for other types of Toyota's with the 22re.. any thoughts on that?

 

Oh I have cleaned the afm with cleaner.. I am also using clips with my meter to free my hands up..
Tests such as egr and timing are difficult due to it not wanting to idle.. I cannot make it to engine bay fast enough to keep it running...

 

Yeah open to closed. There should be bench marks in the manual, but I didn't look for them, for fully closed and fully open.

I mean an actual visual inspection and cleaning of the internals, not sure what you sprayed but I'm just guessing it wasn't the spot I ment.

Here is a pic of the internals, taken from another thread here(which i didn't read all of just now,but may of in the past, just needed a picture)

 

Should of finished typing before I insert that, so this will be a 2-parter..

Ok that little black strip of overlapping arrow shapes, is the resistive/conductive ink. It will likely have a layer of loose carbon dust that needs removed. Notice the small metal wiper arm attached to the black plastic bit that turns. This will also have carbon build up, which needs removed.

You need to be careful in here! Everything goes back where it was! Not stretch or tighten the spring! Do not try to remove the board, it's soldered to the plug!

If the strip is really worn it can be repaired with something like this preferably with a tougher binder, but I didn't look real hard for any.

tie a shoe lace to the throttle and run it up to the firewall under the passenger side wiper and across to the drivers door.

If the EGR is activating at idle.. As long as it's not the EGR valve it's self stuck open you can pull the vac line off the top of it to disable it.

Did you get the idle switch to close? If not it's still the major problem.

 

Thanks for the tips..
I will try the sweep test on the tips tomorrow..
I found donor computer.. no change
What do you mean by if I am getting the idle switch to close that would be major problem?
When I cleaned the vamf i did clean out the circuit board. Used Carb clean and compressed air.

 

Does the question make sense now?

I only asked about the VTA open reading becuase you didn't mention it. the IDL is much more important. It won't idle if it doesn't know it's supposed to.

 

Re set the tps today.. it is set perfect.. the only test that is out of parameters is the acv e2 test with no shims.. it reads 440 a bit lower than the prescribed 470..
I tested my iacv by putting it in hot pan of water.. it is operating correctly
The vamf is also in check..
I did not trust my compression tester so I rented one... guess I should have trusted it... IT DOES NOT LOOK GOOD.....
1: 0
2: 0
3: 50
4: 150
How much oil should I put in top of piston to check to see if it is ring wear and see if my numbers come up??

Thanks for all the help..
I am only getting one code now.. it is 21 for the O2 sensor

 

Ouch, Thats pretty bad I don't think wet rings are going to help that much. Teaspoon to tablespoon ish.

Good luck, heres hoping it's just the valve adjustments are out of whack.!

 

Yeah that is what I am hoping for.. any advice on it.. if its not that I suppose head is coming off next.. yay fun...
It is nice to have a solid direction to go in..
Going to check valve lash in the daylight.. if its good I'll tear the head off and hope to find a failed gasket

 

try changin the PCV its cheap

 

Thanks for the laugh man.
Thats not gonna help much if he's down two cylinders tho.

yotamikey, you didn't happen to drop that compression tester going from #4 to #3 did ya. Did you do the wet test before it got dark/cold out?

 

i suggested that because i only read the title and not the whole thread. i just threw it out there,

 

Soooo.... ........ deep breath and dreams of just adjusting the valves paid off..
Adjusted the valves and checked compression.. 150 in every cylinder..
The PO had zero idea how to adjust valves.. the exhaust valves were sooooo tight they were not closing all the way.. thus no compression..
Adjusted them cold.. then got it up to temp and readjusted them..
She idles and purrs like a kitten.. now I see y ppl like the 22re..
Thanks Co 94... for all ur help..
I checked compression a week ago just did not want to believe it.. kragens shows the same.. should have chased it down further then..
But hey I learned a lot about the truck doing all this...
Again thanks so much for all the help.. this forum rocks.. will be sasing it soon.. got all the parts but an axle and some shocks!!