yes, but you'll need the 4x4 oil pan IIRC

 

I would still have everything from my 4x4 short block so that wouldn't be a problem. Would the computer still control it ok? How about my 4x4 5spd tranny bolting to it? I'm not sure whether the other was a stick or auto.

Rob

 

It will bolt right up...just switch your parts.

It doesn't matter if it was an auto or manual...

 

If changing transmission, you have to swap the flywheel too fyi

 

If your switching the block to one from an auto try to use the crank from the manual so you dont have to drill a hole in the crankshaft from the other block for the pilot bearing.

If you blew a rod bearing it could just run like crap, but it could also bang like hell depending on what became of the rest of the bearing, and how tight the fit between the rod and the crank journal was in the first place. If you cook a rod bearing and it just flakes off some or cracks but stays in place it will run bad but it will run. If a big chunk of the rod bearing managed to escape i would immagine it would just knock all over the place because of how loose it is. Hopefully you didnt blow out one of the main bearings on the crankshaft.

 

I actually found a complete 22RE not far from me with pretty low original miles that I may end up getting. Since I have to pull the engine either way, I would rather just drop in a complete engine rather than having to mess with swapping the top end since I just had to mess with that stuff a year ago lol. So if it is from an auto, I would have to use the flywheel from my stick?

Rob

 

Yes, you would

 

Are there any special tools needed to line up the engine with the transmission? That's the only part I'm kinda worried about.

Rob

 

There aren't any. You just need someone to turn the crank until the splines on the clutch and input shaft line up. Plus, to wiggle/lift/lower to get the motor and tranny angles in line.

Good luck on the short block. Maybe if you decide to do a little exploratory surgery on the original motor, post up what went wrong.

 

What you need to do is drop the pan and look at the oil clearances on the mains to the main journals with a feeler guage. The gap should be around .0010in to .0022in and .0031 as a max!! What you are saying sounds like a bearing, and I bet the guy didnt torque them down all the way or torqued them too much, so it caused this. Even experienced techs make mistakes!!

 

actually, I would also take the head off and look at the conditions of the pistons! and at the same time you can look at the valves!!

 

Yeah I am planning on pulling the head since I will end up parting my old engine anyway.

Rob

 

I picked up my replacement engine yesterday; a 22RE with 84,000 original miles out of a 1994 pickup. Pulled the old engine out today and looked in the oil pan and it was definately a toasted bearing. There were chunks of it in there. Got the new engine bolted in and just have to finish wiring it up this week.

Rob