My 22re has started acting funny here the last couple of days at high rpms it's popping and skipping almost like misfiring but not at idle got plug wires didn't help anybody got suggestions?

 

Have you checked for codes? That would be my first step.

 

X2. How high of RPMs are we talking? Sure your not just hitting the rev limiter?

 

It's more than the rev limiter it has less power than normal it don't have rpm gauge and how do I check codes on 88 yota? To the guy who asked if I checked codes

 

Meant a tach not gauge kinda sounded dumb

 

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

 

Could my problem be injectors I had a buddy look at it and he was thinking it was

 

Did you have any codes stored?

 

I haven't did it yet so you just put a paper clip in the t and ei and it shows a code

 

Yes. Turn the key on, the jumper the terminals it shows in the link I posted, then it will flash the codes. They will flash on a continuous cycle with each cycle separated by a 3-4 second pause. After you have the codes turn the key off and then remove the jumper.

 

Found out my problem was the machine shop who did my head bought a cheap cam every lobe on it was almost round

 

That is bad motor oil. The cam may be cheap & soft, but if the oil is not for solid lifter cams, even the best cam will fail really quick.

Check out rat540 & my posts about engine oil. I think the best is Motul 300V but pennzoil ultra w prolong additive scored very high too.

Don't kid yourself this is becoming very common failure mode.

 

I agree this sounds like bad oil, as it will not lube the lobes (HA! That sounds funny to me) as it probably should and cause the rockers to rub them dry and round them off. I don't know about the "oil for solid rockers", though, as you imply. Any oil that is regularly changed will decrease friction and metal-on-metal rub; only when it gets old and thin, or sometimes burnt, will it not lubricate. Even oil from Wally World will prevent this, otherwise there would be no reason to run the stuff.

 

You are right up to a point. Wally world oil is for modern roller cam engines. Old muscle cars and any engine with a solid lifter camshaft is subject to premature failure due to EPA mandated removal of lubricants like, zinc, moly, and others are causing issues across the automotive spectrum. Lots of write up in racing blogs, and other places relating to premature camshaft failure due to lubrication qualities of modern off the shelf engine oils.

 

The cam was brand new with brand new penzoil and we greased and lubed the cam the truck had less than 1500 miles when the cam did it I'll have to post a pic of the cam it's horrible

 

That stinks;

 

Junk Chinese cam. I have run everything from 30w on break-in, to 10-30 hi mile, 10-30syn, 10-30 from a barrel, 5-40 Rotella t6, 15-40 Rotella, 10-40 hi mile, to 15-40 delo. My cam is ok. Crap oil can destroy cams, but over or under adjusted rockers will, too. Or just cheapass cams, they tend to go round for some reason...

 

I agree, I would never run crappy oil (cough cough PENNZOIL) in a Hi-Pro car/truck; the viscosity within the engine is too high and would burn it up too quickly. My buddy and I rebuilt a '95 5.0 Mustang with a ProCharger Stage II 'charger and after the break-in the guy it was for put in Pennzoil regular and within a week the cam was burnt up. Since the now SECOND rebuild we have been running Mobil 1 Full Synth; no problems since.