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Troubleshooting 3vze after rebuild

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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 08:51 AM
  #41  
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From: Denver
found the carburetor
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 09:19 AM
  #42  
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From: neverland,pa
ya man how did that go? i can't wait to hear how she runs
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #43  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Originally Posted by 3vzeDOLT
did that fix it? I'm following your progress here, as I'm having the same problems to the T....whatever that means. My rig is a '90 3vze, but the symptoms are exactly the same. I've tried everything you have with no luck. I'm thinking the carburetor perhaps? I don't even know where my carburetor is on my truck. Yay.
'90 threeveezee doesn't HAVE a carb. It is fuel injected.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #44  
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From: Denver
ah! See? That solves my problem! I guess I found what LOOKS like a carb. Thanks for the help on that.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 05:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 3vzeDOLT
did that fix it? I'm following your progress here, as I'm having the same problems to the T....whatever that means. My rig is a '90 3vze, but the symptoms are exactly the same. I've tried everything you have with no luck. I'm thinking the carburetor perhaps? I don't even know where my carburetor is on my truck. Yay.
If you want to see if you have the same problems as me, just take off that black tube that goes to the "carburetor" and look inside. If there is a lake inside we have the same problem.

Last night I drained all the oil out and bought new stuff to replace it with. At least some gas got into it. I also removed the crossover and O2 sensor to let them air out.

I haven't been feeling too well so it's not running yet. Maybe this weekend if I can get someone to help turn the dizzy for me.

Hmmm...maybe on some level I don't want to get it done cuz then I'd be without a project......

Jason
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 05:42 PM
  #46  
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I totally know what you mean! I don't know about you, but this is a good indicator that I need a girlfriend. It's also why one half of my garage is occupied by my truck and the other is occupied by my wrecked honda CBR900RR and the frame of my cedar-strip-canoe-to-be. Fixing my truck wasn't on the list of projects. I can't believe I've run into such problems just because I removed my dist., one sparkplug and disconnected the tube to my "carb"..er, air intake manifold throttle housing.

I also found a bit of a puddle of dirty/oily gas inside the air-intake manifold. I found that two of my vacume tubes were swapped around, but it's been running that way for the last six months. I don't know if that has anything to do with my puddle, but it didn't make any immediate difference. I haven't aired it all out yet, so I'll try that and if that doesn't do it, then.....well, I don't really know.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 06:26 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Green93
If you want to see if you have the same problems as me, just take off that black tube that goes to the "carburetor" and look inside. If there is a lake inside we have the same problem.

Last night I drained all the oil out and bought new stuff to replace it with. At least some gas got into it. I also removed the crossover and O2 sensor to let them air out.

I haven't been feeling too well so it's not running yet. Maybe this weekend if I can get someone to help turn the dizzy for me.

Hmmm...maybe on some level I don't want to get it done cuz then I'd be without a project......

Jason
Without a project? EVer since I have owned my truck it has been a project. I may not actually be doing anything to it right now specifically (or having someone do the work for me, depending on what it is) but it is sites like this that get me thinking, pondering, and researching my next modification.

Your truck will be a project as long as you have it. Just think of what you have left to do after you get this engine running. Want me to name the things you need (or should) do next? How much of your money do you want me to spend for you because I can spend a lot.

Lets see....

1) Synthetic oil after break in
2) Synthetic Drive train fluid swap including front & rear diffs, & synthetic ATF in the transmissin & transfer case
3) Bucket seat swap with/console
4) Body work on dents/dings, etc.
5) Power Windows & Locks swap
6) Power Mirrors swap
7) Maybe a manual transmission swap
8) New Tires at some point as I'd imagine your current ones might get you another year or so depending on how much driving you do....
9) Oh yeah - you still need a high performance exhaust & cat to compliment your headers & cams.
10) Maybe some type of intake work of some sort down the road, or at least an ISR to maybe compliment your breahtability mods (although you might not go this route)
11) Extended cab & slider window tinting
12) Rear Springs? New Bilstein or similar shocks?

How much of your $$$ did I just spend?

And it's not a project...pffftttt...

And I should be free this weekend depending on when you need me.

Scott
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #48  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Im in for the wkend
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 08:53 PM
  #49  
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Ok I made some progress and ran into another problem. Father in law came over tonight to help me time the truck. We jumped the two terminals on the diagnostic port and timed it to 10*. The truck runs nice and smooth but seems a little fast, although I am not certain since I don't have a tach. It is smoking (smells of gas)but I assume that is from when I got excess fuel into the system and it is just burning off. After a couple minutes it starting making a loud noise. It seems to be coming from the passenger side. The noise speeds up if you rev the engine a little higher. The noise is a qlack qlack qlack. If we disconnect the ignition coil the truck turns over quickly and easily and there is no noise. As soon as the engine fires the noise comes back. Seems like a top end thing but since it runs so smooth I believe the valves are working fine. If it didn't have compression or if a valve were bent it would stumble at least some ,right?

So any ideas? One guy told me to take it out and drive it...oil pressure will build up and if any passage is blocked it will blow it out and everything will be fine. Easy for him to say. Sound familiar to anyone? Please help....I'm losing faith. Seems like it's been so close for so long.

Jason
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #50  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Damn, man; that sounds suspiciously like a wrist pin going south....anyone else care to guess??
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 08:59 PM
  #51  
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When you press the gas pedal to rev it, does the noise increase, and then decrease with the revs, or when the engine is dropping in idle, does the noise go away and then comes back at idle?
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:01 PM
  #52  
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Is there any way the cam lobe would make that sound if one of the oilers were plugged?

Wrist pins are brand new as well as pistons and rings. Connecting rods are the only reused parts.

Last edited by Green93; Dec 11, 2007 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:01 PM
  #53  
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valve lash???

shootin in the dark here, wrist pin is also a possibility.

Oil pressure readings?
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by CoedNaked
When you press the gas pedal to rev it, does the noise increase, and then decrease with the revs, or when the engine is dropping in idle, does the noise go away and then comes back at idle?
As soon as the engine starts the noise is there. If you rev it up some the noise does not increase in volume....but it does increase in speed with engine RPM's.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by rowdy235
valve lash???

shootin in the dark here, wrist pin is also a possibility.

Oil pressure readings?
Valve lash would be better than wrist pin. I only have an idiot light but it goes out while starting the engine. I am throwing no codes either.

Jason
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:12 PM
  #56  
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When it cranks there is no noise, although who knows how many RPM's it cranks at (and if it would bring it up to speed to get that type of a noise).

But when cylinders are firing and gas is being ignited the noise is present at idle and above.

When you fire the engine, the brief half a second from when it goes to cranking to firing and idling, can you hear the nose "ramp up," or is it not there when cranking as you indicated, and then present as soon as it idles?

A bad wrist pin would make your project SO much more fun though. Think of all the labour to tear it down and build it back up again!
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by CoedNaked
When it cranks there is no noise, although who knows how many RPM's it cranks at (and if it would bring it up to speed to get that type of a noise).

But when cylinders are firing and gas is being ignited the noise is present at idle and above.

When you fire the engine, the brief half a second from when it goes to cranking to firing and idling, can you hear the nose "ramp up," or is it not there when cranking as you indicated, and then present as soon as it idles?

A bad wrist pin would make your project SO much more fun though. Think of all the labour to tear it down and build it back up again!
That basically sums it up. When I crank to start there is no sound but as soon as it fires and begins to run the noise is there.

I'm not thinking about having fun with a wrist pin.

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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Green93
That basically sums it up. When I crank to start there is no sound but as soon as it fires and begins to run the noise is there.

I'm not thinking about having fun with a wrist pin.


Sounds like you got some phone calls to make tommorrow.

Don't be afraid to call LTT and mention my name and ask for Mark in Service.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:37 PM
  #59  
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Well I finally got off my lazy ass and made some progress today. I guess I was just worried that I wouldn't find the problem and would have to face reality. Spent an hour or so ripping the plenum off and found an obvious problem on the #1 cylinder. Exibit a, b, and c.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93T...96398388957810

http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93T...96428453728898

http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93T...96449928565394


Well this is good in a way since I know what's wrong and I don't have to rip out the block to deal with a bottom end problem. My main concern is the cam lobe. It looks worse in the picture (like everyone says) but should it still work fine? Hopefully the worst case is to take it out and have it polished up. I'll be in touch with Weasy2k to see what he has to say, since they are his cams.

The larger spacer is from Weasy2k but I assume the shop used a second spacer because they didn't have the right size shim. Is there a problem using more than one spacer under the shim? The shim has a 51 on the back, do they come larger than this?

Just wanted to update.

Jason
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:53 PM
  #60  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
well, at least you know whats wrong now. Hopfally you can get the new parts quick and get everything back together.
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