Just wait until you have to re-install the tranny. Then the fun begins

I ended up making some dowels out of some bolts with the heads cut off to make it easier to line up the tranny. Two sets of hands make it easier as well.

Good luck!

 

Sorry, but this was some of the bad advice we used the first time I did this job.

Seriously, all you need is a long extension, at least 24" works well, and a wobble socket. You can also use a u-joint and a socket, but quarters are kinda tight, the wobbles are better.

Remove the lower bellhousing bolts, slave cylinder, starter, then the crossmember. Unbolt the t-case mount from the crossmember first (12 mm socket), then do the 4 17mm bolts at each end. LET THE TRANNY DROOP UNDER IT'S OWN WEIGHT. Trust me, I've done this many times, you're not gonna hurt anything. It will not hurt your engine mounts, and nothing will get damaged in the engine compartment. Ignore all that crap in the FSM about putting another jack under the back of the engine. Just let it droop. I learned this from a Master Tech friend that used to do 2-3 clutches a day when he worked at a dealership.

Put the tranny jack under the tranny, lift up the carrier, get it aligned, lift the tranny just enough so the jack is just barely starting to take some weight. Strap/chain the tranny to the jack (very important).

Take the long extension with wobble socket or u-joint/socket setup, stab it up onto each top bolt. You have to come at each bolt from the respective side, you can't get them both from one side. An impact gun works really well here, but not absolutely necessary if you don't have air tools. Remove the bolts.

Once you are SURE that all the bolts are out and everything is disconnected (did you disconnect the 4WD and R connectors?), grab the back of the t-case by the output flange and wobble it back and forth. You're using the leverage of the bellhousing to start walking the input shaft out of the pilot bearing. It only takes a little bit. Once you see things start to seperate, stuff a big prybar between the engine and bellhousing, pry them apart the rest of the way. Usually once you get the thing back about 1/2" or so it is very free and is really to come down.

Roll it back as far as you can, lower the jack a little, repeat.

Stabbing it back on is not that hard. Try to get a clutch lineup tool, they are only a couple $$ at AutoZone, but I've done it by eye in a pinch too. You just have to remember that without the weight of the tranny hanging from the back of the engine, it will be tilted a little less now. Bring the tail of the tranny up a little as you jack it back up. Try to eyeball the bellhousing to parallel to the back of the engine, in all planes. It should pop back together pretty easily.

Having good light and a second person is a huge help.

 

I 2nd that, these can work real well. After removing the bolt heads, I've slotted the ends w/ a Dremel to make insertion/extraction easier.

 

I personally prefer to remove the whole front d-shaft, it just gets it completely out of the way, but I do leave the rear connected to the rear diff. Letting the tranny hang isn't bad, but I still prefer not to do it, so I usually have the tranny jack up under there when I start to take off the crossmember. Also, I ditched the stupid blast shield a long time ago.

Like I said though, after having done a few, these are just my personal preferences. I agree with everything KLF said.

As for taking it out and putting it in, you want it to be as level as possible, so if you are sure that all the bolts are out and you cannot get it to move, try raising or lowering the jack some to level it out. Otherwise the shaft will bind in the pilot bearing.

 

Thanks again, I just bought an electric impact seeing as Ill need it for the flywheel anyways, so they should come out a lot easier now. And I forgot to mention that, make sure you get all the connections removed from the tranny and remove the speedo cable at the rear of the tranny.

 

KLF you should make a write up too. very useful knowledge that many people can use in order to save tons of time and future parts. looks like there are a lot of things that is a "no no" when doing this work. good to learn from people's experiences/mistakes so i won't make the same ones. both bejiita and KLF good job.

 

I didnt get to work on it tonight no one wants to get their hands dirty so if I cant find anyone tomorrow Ill be pulling it out alone tomorrow so Ill let you know how fun it is when you do it alone .

 

I just did the same thing this past weekend. Slotted them so I could unscrew them with a screwdriver.

 

Ok, so I got the tranny out and it was a pain in the @$$, ive never done anything this hard in my life, I had to get it out and then drop it onto a 4X4 piece of wood, before you remove it remove the front yolk or it will get hung up and make your life hell. But now I have a question, whoevers actually removed one of these, how do you put it back in? I dont see how Im going to get this back in now, I think Im going to have to remove the tranny from the tarsnfer case to get this to fit. And does anyone know if I have a W56? Its a 95 SR5 4WD 3.0

 

uhhh... PLEASE tell me you are using a tranny jack. You ARE, right?

The 3VZ-E engine uses the R150F tranny.

 

Well, I will be swapping my tranny this spring for a R151F turbo tranny that I'm currently rebuilding. Maybe I'll take my time and take a bunch of pics, do a write-up.

 

K cool, what would happen if I pulled the tranny apart from the transfer case? I just used a huge jack and ratchet strapped it to the arm until I had to drop it. I dont think its going back in as a whole.

 

Bejiita,

When I did my 3.4 conversion, I ended up having to remove the tranny to re-install it, so to speak. What helped me a lot was to capture the engine on my hoist (after the motor mounts were bolted up)to stabilize the engine, and give the engine a slight downward angle to the back. That facilitated getting the transmission back onto it.

I did this by myself, with the transmission strapped to a floor jack. PITA, but do-able.

 

You will get some gear oil since part of the t-case uses a small housing in the back of the tranny. You really should try and find a tranny jack as shown here



I have done both ways, installing a tranny with the t-case still attached and without and without is by far the easier way to go. Now that I've got a dual ultimate crawler, I will be removing the t-cases first if I ever have to take the tranny out. I hope that isn't for a long time

 

uhh... how was this bad advise ? it worked like a charm for me and just took a couple minutes to do . and no way would I the weight of the tranny rest on the shaft under its own weight.

highway

 

Alright thanks again guys, Ill try and borruw my buddies tranny jack and see what I can do, my flywheel should be done tomorrow and we can move on from there.

 

It was a HUGE PITA getting that wrench in there, working blind from inside the cab, the damned thing kept falling off the bolt, etc. Never again.

I wouldn't let the tranny hang from just the shaft either, you will bend the input shaft. Read the ORDER of what I posted. Remove the bottom bolts only, then disconnect all the other crap and crossmember, let it hang. Put the jack under it so it's holding the weight, then take out the top bolts LAST.

 

KLF, re-read my original post....I did not use a wrench at all but through the shifter hole i used a 12" extension/17mm socket and a ratchet. The socket and extension actually just slides right onto the bolt head, the bolt sets right between 2 ridges and guides the socket right on. only took me a couple minutes to take the 2 bolts right out.

highway

 

KLF

You said, "* Always replace the RMS. ALWAYS."

I will be installing a clutch kit for the first time soon. This thread has some good info on it. But what is an RMS?

thanks, Da Rockit

 

RMS = rear main seal