newTOyotas

I realize that a quick search can result in a million threads associated with proper TPS setting/testing. Most of them simply offer a link to the same guide to setting up the TPS.
Ok, so I have the throttlebody/TPS unit still installed on my truck and an additional throttlebody/TPS that I purchased (told from a running engine with no known issues to the TPS) but for whatever reason BOTH TPS units test exactly the same and niether test according to the specs provided by the '4crawler' link I have tried going by.

I get the same readings from both TPS units installed on both TBs:
~6.33K~ at 'idle' to ~1.84K~ at WOT and NEVER open/infinite in between.
This is taking the readings from the bottom two blades on the TPS.

What are the chances of BOTH TPS units being bad in exactly the same way even though one is coming from a source that claims to be good, and the other is from a truck (mine) that appears to only have issues with the IAC which is how I came to testing the TPS anyways.

I am aware that I may be testing the unit incorrectly, but since I am trying to test it exactly as described in the links I find associated with testing the TPS, apparently I must need more direction than the link is able to offer.

Can anyone offer any input as to why I get readings (from both TPS) in the same manner of ~6.33K~ to ~1.84K~ with no open/infinite in between?
I have no trouble testing the TPS on a GM motor, but maybe I've gotten lucky since the directions seem more valid and things seem to land exactly where they are suppose to. Nothing about testing/tuning a Toyota so far seems to be clear or the same from one source to the next Has anyone figured out how to test/properly set the TPS yet or does the rules for one TPS vary by the time you try testing another?

Evil.Dingo

Well...coinkydink! I just got done this morning installing adjusting a new TPS that I thought was the reason for a surging idle, sticky throttle while driving. I would have to tap my foot on the gas to bump it down. The dash pot was removed a year ago so that was out of the equation. I adjusted my new TPS with a .028 inch gauge on the 22k setting on my ohmeter. It read between 068 and 086 but it was tuff to get it right at the desigtnated setting. I set it close as possible. Than I moved on to test the air valve, AFM and temp sensor. All checked good. The Air adjust screw on top of the throttle body (on my 22re) was next thing I took a look at. I unscrewed it out of the throttle body and wow...it was gunked bad. I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and used a rage to clean out the rest of the throttle body. DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE NEGINE IS RUNNING OR THE TPS INSTALLED!!! IT WILL FRY YOUR TPS or at least contaminate the contacts on internals. I also removed the intake hosing between the TB and AFM. Looked for cracks. There was a deformanity where they come together atthe second connection before the TB. I held the assembly over my wood stove, heated it up and then re-set it and tightened. Reassembled everything, startedher up, brought it up to operating emp and the surge and sticky throttle was gone. I also was low on coolant due to a lower radiotor hose that was not set perfectly on the kneck. I also rechecked the timing with T1 jumpered to make sure all was good. It was off a little. So now it runs nice.

Just wanted to let you see all the issues one has to address when dealing with suspected TPS issues. Most of the time it is not just the TPS. My original TPS was bad and had to replaced. 130.00 form the dealer. Not cheap but the spring and contacts were bad in my original whic had 215,000 miles on it.

Hope this helps! Good luck tihe it...oh yeah check out this 4 crawler article. it is very good except that the picture is decieving as to where idle and e2 are.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

newTOyotas

Thanks for taking the time to reply and offer some help.

I do have the famous "my toyota doesn't want to idle right" blues, but I half-assed solved that issue by placing a piece of tape over the IAV/IAC/AAV or whatever the correct name for this part of the throttlebody is. That gave me a "cold blooded" engine, but a pleasant trade for an engine that idled up/down/up/down/up/down everytime I came to a stop or while at idle.

I am convinced that the problem with my truck is in fact the IAC/IAV/AAV/etc, but I am also confused as to why I can't seem to get the correct readings from my TPS currecntly on my truck AND the TPS mounted on the TB that I just purchased for replacement of the one on my truck.
The TB I bought is from a 3VZE but just like everything else it seems about these rigs, the TPS part number listed in the 4crawler link for ~I believe~ a 22RE is the same part number on my 3VZE TPS (#89452-12040). Either they are the same part #, the part # listed for the 22RE listed on 4crawler site is wrong, or the TPS that came on the throttlebody I purchased is actually from a 22RE and not a 3VZE like claimed by the original owner(this I don't think is the case, but you never know I guess).

Either way, both TPS test with the same readings and neither test according to the specs in the 4crawler link.

I admit I am probably doing something wrong since everything about this truck in confusing to me, but WHAT am I doing wrong? Or are both TPS units bad? (I doubt this is the case, but......)

Evil.Dingo

yep..thats a tuff one when you have two parts that ones not sure if either is good. Have you thought about opening one of them up to check the contacts on the inside. You can rebuild these if you feel like taking that on. But you will have to epoxy it back together. From what I understand it is fairly common for po's to clean their TB's unwittingly while the TPS is installed thus conaminating the internal contacts which will throw off your continuity. Maybe soak that sucker in a cup of contact cleaner for an hour or two. WHen I opened my old one up the contacts where actually worn and loose. So depending on the miles it could be that both are just worn past specs.

Good luck mate! Sorry I couldn't be of more help!

newTOyotas

Thanks alot, your are plenty of help
Anything I learn about this foreign truck will help me in the long run. I have always owned domestic (mostly try to just stick to GM) and got to the point where I was quite comfortable with basic knowledge of them. I got sick of the terrible fuel mileage I got out of my 98 ext cab 4x4 Z71 and decided to give a smaller toyota a try. So far, I am having a VERY hard time with my decision. I barely gained 2 mpg going from a ~330hp~ 5.7 V8 that was loaded with options and built like a tank to a ~150hp~ 3.0 V6 5spd that is basic in every category and built like a go-cart The truck 'only' has 122K on it so I was assuming that I would get at least another 50K out of it. From everything I've read/experienced so far, I'll be happy if I get through the next 2 1/2 months of winter.

These trucks are probably better though if you get one that runs correctly I'm sure.

peckinpah

What are the results of the first test (VTA to E2)? That is, the second blade down to the 4th blade down. You can do this before you even install the TPS and it's off the truck.

When my TPS was busted, I got erratic readings that jumped around all over the place on that test. So when I went to the dealer to buy a new TPS, I brought my tester with me, and the new one was right in spec and didn't jump around.

So that's when I knew my TPS was the problem.

newTOyotas

I get no readings at all from those two terminals(??)
I noticed that turning all the way CW I get a reading of 5.78K and then swinging the sensor all the way CCW it goes to6.73K
I'm not sure what that indicates but I got from reading the instructions on 4crawler link that I 'should' get it to go infinite/open at some point and also 'should' be able to get a reading close to 2.3K I can't even get close to that low of a reading going just by the room in the adjustment slots for the screws. I can only get lower than 5.78K by swinging the throttle open.

peckinpah

Is your tester working right? I would call around and find an auto parts store close by and find one that has a TPS and bring your tester and ask to test it right there at the counter. If you get the correct reading, then it sounds like you do indeed have two dead TPS units.

newTOyotas

Confirmed by using two of my other meters. All meters get the same exact readings. All 3 different brand meters, none cheap.
I will have to see if the people at the local NAPA have one in stock to test. I live in small town USA, so that will have to wait until a day that isn't Sunday

Thanks very much for your help.

newTOyotas

If anyone can offer a little input on which way the TPS is 'supposed' to be mounted on the TB correctly, I think I may have figured out why I am getting such goofy readings.
When I recently bought this truck, I assumed that the TPS was mounted as it should be, but I am now second guessing the way it is mounted. I carefully read/re-read the instructions on the 4crawler link on how to properly setup the TPS and from that it said to connect the ohm meter to the "bottom two terminals" on the TPS (IDL & E2 pins). My TPS is mounted so the plug is facing the passenger side fender, and I'm now wondering if maybe it is just mounted 'backwards' and should actually be facing the driver's side fender which would change the orientation and the "bottom two terminals" would be the opposite two that I have been trying to use for testing.
Can anyone with a 3VZE confirm the proper mounting orientation of the TPS? Which way should the plug face?
Thanks for any input.

Cuba

Hey can anyone answer newTOyotas post above ^^^? The throttle body I have kicking around has the tps mounted with the terminals inward toward the plenum. Whereas the one which is in the truck has the terminals facing out towards the passenger side (if your sitting in it. mines lhd). Seems kinda weird, but seeing as I bought it from a seller online, there's a good chance he just threw it on.

Any help appreciated.

ChzSoda

On my 91 PU 3VZE the plug is pointing towards the driver side.

fork

something tells me he got rid of it

Chastin513

mine was also mounted towards passenger and i as well am getting readings no where close to what they are suppose to be in manual, all readings about 5k ohms (5000) and no infinite or drop out as well.

scope103

The correct test procedure can be found (surprised?) in the manual. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/throttle.pdf