towing a load
#1
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towing a load
I have learned that I'll need to cross the rockies while towing a load.
I am wondering whether my 2nd gen 3vze is up to the task. If I decide to try, what should I check/change beforehand to ensure or maximize the chances of smooth runnings? (not the Jamaican bobsled team sliding down)
the image I am mentally creating is the confident 3vze proudly making it over!
I am wondering whether my 2nd gen 3vze is up to the task. If I decide to try, what should I check/change beforehand to ensure or maximize the chances of smooth runnings? (not the Jamaican bobsled team sliding down)
the image I am mentally creating is the confident 3vze proudly making it over!
#2
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change your oil, all your filters
check your power steering fluid, transmission fluid, brake fluid, brake pads and shoes
also, make sure you have extra oil and brake fluid, at least.
check your power steering fluid, transmission fluid, brake fluid, brake pads and shoes
also, make sure you have extra oil and brake fluid, at least.
#3
Tow a legal load for your vehicle and you should be fine.
Just remember that being overloaded is illegal and should you get in an accident you could face criminal charges and your insurance could not cover the damage. Seen it happen before.
Be safe!
Just remember that being overloaded is illegal and should you get in an accident you could face criminal charges and your insurance could not cover the damage. Seen it happen before.
Be safe!
#4
I drove through the Wasatch in my 3vze and I swear there were times with the accelerator floored, going up the steep grades where i could have opened the door, jumped out, and ran beside my runnner.
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#9
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Take your time, don't hold yourself to such a tight schedule that you have to push it Really hard to make it.
Bring some extra food and drinks, so if something does happen you can eat first and not work on the truck while starving.
Check the condition of the radiator, coolant, belts, and hoses, in addition to those listed above. and either premix, or buy some premixed coolant to bring with in the case of an over heat, so you do not have to search for water in the middle of nowhere to top off the radiator.
Bring some extra food and drinks, so if something does happen you can eat first and not work on the truck while starving.
Check the condition of the radiator, coolant, belts, and hoses, in addition to those listed above. and either premix, or buy some premixed coolant to bring with in the case of an over heat, so you do not have to search for water in the middle of nowhere to top off the radiator.
#11
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Don't be afraid to wind it up a bit either. higher rpm motors ya know....
Good luck
Last edited by Alex 400; 03-17-2009 at 10:57 AM.
#13
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As for the premium fuel- if the engine does start to run warmer than normal, the better fuel will resist detonation better than low-grade and prevent the knock sensor (if equipped) from kicking in and retarding the timing.
...still waiting for 411 on the trailer weight....
...and I would use a trailer with brakes (hydraulic / surge) at the very least.
#14
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When explained that way - I'd say, ignore my comment.
#15
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What does your trailer weigh?
The comment to run Premium Grade Gas IS a good idea in this instance. Chevron 91 !!!
When I had 3000 pounds in my truck a few Summers ago helping a buddy with some reno's I was pinging a bit in 3rd gear going up a reasonable hill near his house. Supreme would have reduced or eliminated this.
Make sure your cooling system is in top shape and your coolant is on the newer side.
Making sure all the fluids are in top shape is a good one too. If you have Synthetic fluids (I recommend Amsoil) throughout your drive train and in your engine you should be good to go. With all your mods you should probably be ok I would think as well. Also, don't be afraid to just slow down on the bigger grades and get in the right lane. Like drop down to 3rd gear which is actually a pretty good all around torque gear, and put your truck at about 3000-3400 RPM's and hold that until you reach the crest. Yeah you won't be going super fast but it'll be easier on the truck.
The comment to run Premium Grade Gas IS a good idea in this instance. Chevron 91 !!!
When I had 3000 pounds in my truck a few Summers ago helping a buddy with some reno's I was pinging a bit in 3rd gear going up a reasonable hill near his house. Supreme would have reduced or eliminated this.
Make sure your cooling system is in top shape and your coolant is on the newer side.
Making sure all the fluids are in top shape is a good one too. If you have Synthetic fluids (I recommend Amsoil) throughout your drive train and in your engine you should be good to go. With all your mods you should probably be ok I would think as well. Also, don't be afraid to just slow down on the bigger grades and get in the right lane. Like drop down to 3rd gear which is actually a pretty good all around torque gear, and put your truck at about 3000-3400 RPM's and hold that until you reach the crest. Yeah you won't be going super fast but it'll be easier on the truck.
Last edited by CoedNaked; 03-17-2009 at 03:57 PM.
#16
I would make sure that you have good tread on your tires, wind shield washer fluid... and no leaking break cylinders... just my 2cents")
Good Luck and drive safely!!
Good Luck and drive safely!!
#17
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Good one, don't forget to check the spare tire either. Also after adding the load you may need to increase the pressure in the tires to compensate for the load, just don't exceed the tire manufactures limit molded to the side wall.
#18
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With towing, the big issue is heat - towing will cause the motor to run hot. I see you have headers, and that is a big big help. Heat will still be a concern, though.
Verify your EGR system is working well. That is key to keeping combustion temps down. With a hot motor at 2500 rpm, there should be good vacuum going to the top of the egr valve - you can pull the hose off and check it with your finger. Either pull the valve off to verify that it moves freely, or just check that at 2500 rpm the egr pipe that goes from the valve into the plenum is hot (don't burn yourself!)
Does your motor have the oil cooler? I don't know how effective it is, but if you don't have one, you might consider scrounging one from a junkyard. You need to change the water pump to get one with a hose fitting.
Make sure your thermostat is in good shape and is the factory specified 180 deg.
I'd spring for some fully synthetic oil, not quasi-synthetic like Syntec. Personally I avoid Mobil 1 like the plague since the only time I used it, my pan fipg sprung a leak. Amsoil and Red Line are both excellent.
Likewise, if you haven't changed the gear oil in a while, this would be a good time. Red Line's MT90 or Amsoil's MTG are great for the tranny; Amsoil's Severe Gear 75W90 is great in the transfer. And whatever you prefer in those truetracs.
Improve the heat carrying ability of your coolant by using 60 percent distilled water and 40 percent coolant. That will give significantly better heat transfer and will still give freezing protection down to -20.
Even more heat transfer can come from using a wetting agent, but if you are using toyota red coolant, absolutely don't use Red Line's Water Wetter as it will react with the phosphates to make sludge. I've heard Purple Ice works okay but don't have experience to back that up. If you're running prestone green, either additive would probably work.
Carrying extra coolant/distilled water is a good precaution, as mentioned.
I'm sure having that great Marlin clutch will give you some peace of mind.
Have fun!
Verify your EGR system is working well. That is key to keeping combustion temps down. With a hot motor at 2500 rpm, there should be good vacuum going to the top of the egr valve - you can pull the hose off and check it with your finger. Either pull the valve off to verify that it moves freely, or just check that at 2500 rpm the egr pipe that goes from the valve into the plenum is hot (don't burn yourself!)
Does your motor have the oil cooler? I don't know how effective it is, but if you don't have one, you might consider scrounging one from a junkyard. You need to change the water pump to get one with a hose fitting.
Make sure your thermostat is in good shape and is the factory specified 180 deg.
I'd spring for some fully synthetic oil, not quasi-synthetic like Syntec. Personally I avoid Mobil 1 like the plague since the only time I used it, my pan fipg sprung a leak. Amsoil and Red Line are both excellent.
Likewise, if you haven't changed the gear oil in a while, this would be a good time. Red Line's MT90 or Amsoil's MTG are great for the tranny; Amsoil's Severe Gear 75W90 is great in the transfer. And whatever you prefer in those truetracs.
Improve the heat carrying ability of your coolant by using 60 percent distilled water and 40 percent coolant. That will give significantly better heat transfer and will still give freezing protection down to -20.
Even more heat transfer can come from using a wetting agent, but if you are using toyota red coolant, absolutely don't use Red Line's Water Wetter as it will react with the phosphates to make sludge. I've heard Purple Ice works okay but don't have experience to back that up. If you're running prestone green, either additive would probably work.
Carrying extra coolant/distilled water is a good precaution, as mentioned.
I'm sure having that great Marlin clutch will give you some peace of mind.
Have fun!
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