Hey folks, I got a 1995 Toyota 4WD 3vze auto DLX pickup I need to use to pull a 2169 pound (that includes the contents) enclosed 7x12 v-nose trailer. Payload will be 710 pounds, give or take 100 - that includes my weight, passenger, generator, and other random small things in the bed.

Tow weight = 2169
Payload (including me and passenger) = 710

Total weight will be 2779.

I do motorcycle racing on the side and I'd like to make keep this truck as the pulling vehicle if it can consistently do it without having to destroy my truck or sell it for another.

I will be driving mostly from Richmond, VA to Alton, VA. It's a 140 mile trip and 80% of it is driving on a highway at 55-60mph. Most of it consists of mild hills on this highway.

I've been researching this off and on for the past several months and came to the conclusion that the truck "should" be able to do this, but braking is going to be an issue.

My truck has a full catback pacesetter exhaust system with a high flow cat, "expensive as hell" premium plug wires + plugs, K&N filter, and stock wheels. Additionally, it will have full synthetic rotella oil, fresh amsoil transmission fluid with "transmission honey", 89 octane with lucas fuel additive, and I'll be lubing the front and rear gears.

Here's a picture of my setup:



I understand its important to know what the truck came with to factor in towing ability. Here's a shot of my door jam:







Can anyone tell what gearing I have for the truck? I know being auto that takes off about 1000 pounds of my towing capacity, but trying to figure out exactly what it's capable of has been like chasing around a wild goose. The manual gives spotty information and anything on the internet contradicts itself. Thanks everyone.




Additional Info:

I've put together a sort of guide for a friend of mine that is driving the truck (I am on a restricted license (I was speeding on a motorcycle if it matters)). All this is sort of under the assumption I'm towing a good amount over the limit:

BRAKE WAY EARLY. Worst case you can brake too early and simply drive the remaining distance in a lower gear.

Overdrive always off

Get up to and maintain 55mph (max speed we'll be traveling) using about 75% throttle. Basically don't floor it, but get up to speed quickly. The more time spent accelerating = even more gas consumption. I'm already going to be getting around 11MPG.

"Extra Power" button on WHEN ACCELERATING. Turn it off when up to speed or you get crap MPG (unless its constantly shifting or something on the hilly roads). This will allow the motor to rev higher into the powerband before shifting, and it will help our super slow acceleration.

Use engine braking when possible. Since overdrive will be off, just take your foot off the accelerator and it will put some of the stopping force on the motor. Use foot brakes as needed.

Shift down to 2nd when anticipating slowing to below 40mph, again, still using foot brakes as needed.

If slowing to a stop: when you hit 40mph you can shift to "L" (first) gear for even more assisted engine braking. Use the normal brakes as needed.

Watch the motor temperature and for a "TRANSMISSION HOT" warning light. Especially, I was told, if it's over 85 degrees out

Then of course the fact that you are towing a 7x12 massive enclosed trailer, very wide turns will be needed.

 

I cant comment on the other things, but in the bottom right corner it says " A/TM G254/" That means you have 4.56 gears with the 4 pinion v6 differentials.

BTW, the color of your truck is my FAVORITE color TOYOTA offered. Looks great!

Edit: Might want to look into a transmission cooler that doesnt use the radiator.

 

Thanks. I'd upload more pictures of it to the album but I'd have to manually resize every one of them to 600x600.

Looks like 4.56 is ideal for towing on 31's. That's good.

 

I would say Transmission cooler and a transmission temperature gauge

When your Transmission hot light comes on it is telling you that you just cooked your transmission

Does your trailer have brakes?? If you stated it I missed it.

I don`t know where you came up with the idea to get up to speed fast slow and easy. The timed event does not start to the bike comes out the trailer. If you have never made this trip it will take you longer than you think.

You want to be real careful trying to shift a automatic trans unless you do it all the time. It is amazing how easy it is to shift into reverse while going 30 mph or so.

How do you plan to load out the trailer?

As this can be a very frustrating process to far front or back the weight will make it handle real poor. Also you could get one that say about 45mph starts to swing left and right forcing you to keep your speed down.

It will be interesting

 

I tow 3000 lbs often with my auto.
Like Wyoming says - get a transmission cooler and look into trailer brakes.

Don't bother messing with the shifter.

The "extra power" button just changes the shift points.
Won't impact mileage while cruising.

 

There's a company I've dealt with very successfully called "Rotorpros" I ordered FireHawk brake pads (GREAT) & slotted/drilled rotors. These make a HUGE different in stopping power. The company has great customer service & will steer you in the right direction. I paid $170 for pads & rotors.

www.rotorpros.net
(714)309-3620
email: info@rotorpros.net

 

This is excellent information. While I do not have a power concern, the braking information and gearing information that came out of this thread have been huge.

I boiled my brakes on a steep grade pulling my boat last year, and while they did not fade, they sure were hot.

TNRabbit, do you do any pulling with the new brakes?

Cheers.

 

I don't do much pulling anymore, but I regularly have 1,000+ lb loads in the truck with no issues.

 

I did a bunch of research on what different brake options we had, and if you already have the SW13b brakes, there is not much there for you. If they are the SW12a's, my understanding is you can at least step up to the 13's.

I had been looking at tons of stuff including the rear disc conversion, but I believe I will just buy the rotors and pads you mentioned, throw in some DOT4 and see where that lands me.

Cheers.

 

Gauge will have to wait, trip is happening Friday, but I will add that to my list.

I need to look up the transmission cooler installation procedure, I see prices are actually very cheap. Do you recommend anything in particular I don't have to order from the net? Again, trip is happening in a couple days.

I read that several people on these boards with the a340h transmission occasionally getting the Transmission Hot warning message when towing and the transmission is fine. They do, however, usually note they immediately pull over and get it cooled down. So I'm sorta confused... what's the use of a warning light if it's already cooked by the time it comes on?

It does, but I don't have a brake controller. I know I know, I've already spent a several hundred bucks in preparation for this trip, I literally don't have any more money. That's going on the list too, I'll just take it easy on the brakes. They still have plenty of life left.

Well, as stated it's really just to conserve fuel. If this is a bad idea other than thinking I'm racing my rig, then I'll simply accelerate at a normal super slow pace. Not to mention I read the longer the torque convertor is engaged, the more heat is being put in the transmission. Spending 5 minutes getting up to speed sounds like a bad idea in that context. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong. Taking this whole thing very logical.


Like actually hitting the gear selector? Or the transmission causing it to slip into reverse? I hear ya, I don't think we'll have a problem avoiding the shifter, both of us are very good drivers. Just new to towing this much weight in this much truck.

Given the 200-250 pounds payload in the bed, and the tool box in the nose of the trailer, I'll balance mounting the 375 pound bike weighted towards the rear.

Duly noted. Hopefully it won't be too windy. At this point really thankfull I opted for the extra cash and got a v nose for more efficient wind resistance.

If it starts to sway like that we'll pop it in neutral and slow down until it sub sides.

Thanks for the info.


EDIT: Just as an update, I forgot to add. Last night I threw in some Sea Foam made transmission tune cleaning additive. Ran it through the area shifting through all gears, also sitting in place, shifting to drive, park, and reverse (gently). Drained that out, put in Royal Purples higher temperature rated premium auto transmission fluid. Then I put some transmission honey in there and lucas transmission fluid treatment to help with all the friction, chatter, and known torque converter heat generating problems.

Additionally, tonight, I'm putting in 75w-90 royal purple gear oil for the rear differential, and mobil 1 for the front. $60 for the Royal Purple (with the new *omg* technology), it better hold up forever.

For the motor I got a new royal purple filter, and rotella 10w-40 full synth T6 oil. Also double checked the cooling system. Always been top notch and clean. Motor always runs consitantly at 35% to hot.

Still have to grease the driveshaft, and I believe 1 other pivot point, with the grease gun.

 

Yeah, we are throwing out the whole engine braking idea. It was suggested in the owners manual for help stopping, but that's just stressing the transmission out too much with this much weight.

I think the HUGE concern here is the fact I would be driving in 85+ degree weather on this highway.

What is the temperature there in Canada when you're doing this 3000 pound towing?

Thanks for the response.

 

Certainly can be 85.
I do switch to 10w40 in the summer.
And don't worry, it can run at 3500 rpm all day long.