woodyth

iTrader: (1)

my 22r is messing with me today. driving to work temp gauge got all the way up to the top white line. so i stopped at the quickie mart to see if it was something simple. it's been down below zero for a couple days. topped off coolant and drove it another two miles. got hot again, so i sat next to the highway and let it cool down. this time started it back up temp gauge went up to where it normally runs, it warmed up a bit and then thermostat open and cooled it back down. I did hear a gurggling when I turned the heater back on. I got to work shut it down, thought i might just be a "gremlin" but on the way home, did it again. it seems to me something is freezing. as title says top hose hot, bottom warm. by no means close to the top hose. To me im thinking it's one of 3 things:

1 coolant isn't mixed correctly, stopped and bought 2 gallons of 50/50 pre mixed and am going to change it. along with a coolant flush chemical. goop is the brand.

2. thermostat. local toyota dealer don't stock the dual stat. Ideas on what I can use for time being until I can get 9016 one?

3. I just replaced the rad cap with one from autozone. I don't know the poundage, but it was the one they suggested. I don't think that would cause all of this.

You guys got any great ideas?
Thanks
Woody

jb451

The temp difference between the two hoses is usually 'stat related, as in it is not opening. I always make sure to drop mine in hot water to open it up a few times before it goes in. Did you properly bleed all the air out of the cooling system? This can also cause hot spots. The cap should be fine if it is new.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

There should be a temperature difference between the upper and lower hoses, that tells you your radiator is working. Could you tell your engine was overheating? Other than the stock gauge? You might have gotten an air pocket in the system, when the air reaches the coolant temp sensor the gauge will rise due to the air will be hotter that the coolant.

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

The stat is the all mighty never fail Toyota dual stat. Going to head to auto zone when they open and get one and put it in. I tapped on the housing and it opened while burping the system. Then went and drove around and truck proceeded to get hot again.
I plan on ordering another Toyota one but need the truck tomorrow. What should I get from pats house to get me by till Toyota one gets here?
Thanks
Woody

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

pulled thermostat out, put it in boiling water, opened about 1/16 of an inch after 2 minutes in water. Headed to autozone when they open at nine. going to get the duralast until i can replace it with oem toyota when it gets here next week. sound good?

jb451

I know a lot of the guys here will say otherwise, but i wouldn't bother draining the coolant again, just put the good one in and call it good… There comes a point when its just overkill Personally, i've never had a problem with the parts store brand...

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

Starting to think its head related. just came home from test drive, new thermo stat in, it got hot on temp gauge but top and lower radiator hoses were cold, but middle one was super hot. could it be a blockage in radiator?

YotaWoRx

Time to do a cylinder leak down test to see if the head gasket failed

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

hmm thought it might be mix so drained coolant again, this time using gallon of not pre mixed and topped off with premixed. Also found a new radiator 3 core copper and put it in. now it doesn't overheat but goes all the way up to the top white line before it drops back to half. normal for non Toyota t-stat?? ?

jb451

Mine never gets above halfway…. You've got to have an air pocket somewhere id imagine...

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

i jacked it up on my driveway incline and let the thermostat open and close twice, both times getting all the way up to the top white line before it opened. i did not have heat at first though, so it makes me believe i had an air bubble in heater core and got that out because i had heat after the thermostat opened.