Badfish740

So I got my 200LB 14" ZUK springs installed and I think they're either a little too tall, a little too stiff, or a combination of both:



I have 17" from the top of the rim to the fender lip with the spring installed. The above picture was with the T-bars cranked to about 14.5". Here is the truck with T-bars cranked to a full 15"-not too much a difference:





I'm wondering if I should cut one coil off in order to get the spring down to about 13" in an effort to level the truck a bit more. I'm not a fan of the raked look really. Longer term I'm going to get BJ spacers, relax the T-bars some, and do a diff drop, but it shouldn't hurt anything for now. The other variable is the tires-my 32s should be here Tuesday, so I might wait to see how it looks with those on before I do anything.

Sensei

Not knowing the background as to why coils were installed, unless to compensate for weak leafs, I'd say not enough weight with a standard bed as opposed to a 4Runner using the same ZUK mod.

Why were the coils installed ?

Badfish740

A combination of weight capacity and lift. The springs were fine unloaded and still had an arch to them, but as soon as any weight was put in the bed (a small load of firewood, etc...) they'd go flat, so I decided to go with a heavy spring in order to compensate for heavier loads of firewood. I'm putting 265/75/16 D-range tires on the truck as well in order to handle the weight. I also wanted to make sure I had enough clearance for the tires, which is why I decided to go with the ZUK mod. I don't think a 12" spring would have worked because at full droop the distance from the tops of the U-bolts to the frame is only about 12 1/8" so I was worried about them possibly becoming dislodged and went with the 14". If I cut them to 13" I think I'd still be ok.

MudHippy

And you do know that cutting the springs shorter will make them even stiffer right?

snobdds

14 inch coils seem too long for trucks. 12 inch coils seem a better fit for trucks that don't have as much weight in the back end as 4runners. My 12 inch, 150 lb coils are perfect for my truck. FYI...

Badfish740

Sure, but I'm more concerned about the height than the ride. The truck isn't a DD.

Did you happen to measure how much clearance you had at full droop? I thought a 12" could fall out based on what I had, but maybe I was being too cautious.

snobdds

No measurement, however there is no way they will come out at full droop.

jrock08

I get where you think they might come out but you also have to think that you'll have about a inch of bumpstop on top and bottom to hold the spring in there so you should be alright there.

And even though I haven't done my zuk mod yet, it is the next thing on my list so I've done my research. But those are the heaviest springs I've seen anyone use. Mostly what I see people using are 100-150 lb springs.

Just my 2 cents.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

As referenced in my Zuk mod thread (ANOTHER ZUK mod thread...........) I used the 14" 100PSI springs on an xtra cab standard bed and had the EXACT results I wanted. After measuring mine at approx 12.75" at full axle drop I (and Zuk BTW) decided that the 14" was the way to go. Yes, as SNOBDDS says, a 12" would likely work, but why risk it? I think your up high because of 2 things, 1) 200psi instead of 100psi springs 2) your truck is light in the rear (probably why your springs still had some travel unloaded). I have a fiberglas cap & about 100lbs of tools in mine and still have a real gain of 3+ inches.
IMHO I'd wait on the new tires to fill the wells and expedite the front end lift!
OR............
You could just fill it to the lip of the bed with firewood and ride around that way!!!!

cman1

iTrader: (1)

cut them off at 13" and see how you like it,ive done two zuk mods ,one on a pickup,one on a 4runner,you can safely go with a 12" spring without worrys...unless your jumping busses!!!! especially since your leafs were good already.

angrybob

Looking at pictures of the springs, they appear to be constant rate / linear springs - meaning not 'progressive'. No matter the length, the spring rate should remain the same.

The main problem with cutting the springs is not in the rate change, but rather the mounting surface.



That nice flattened out section of at least one side of the coil goes away unless you grind it down to make your own flat. Not the end of the world, but not great. Best thing to do if you want to change would be to sell off your current springs and get replacements of the length you want.

MudHippy

Wrong.

It's because they are constant rate/linear springs that the rate changes in direct relation to the length.

http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/cutting-springs

Badfish740

I'm definitely going to wait until the new tires are on before I do anything. I might not even cut them-the look is growing on me a little Plus I didn't really consider the fact that my spare tire wasn't on (and the spare wheel and tire combo is going to be heavier than stock), and I also plan on adding a hefty rear bumper, headache rack, ax, shovel, chainsaw carrier, peavey, and some tools. That could easily come to 300lbs by itself. Maybe if it still looks odd after all of that I'll take one coil off.

One of the main reasons I went with 200lb springs was this old picture I dug up:



I don't think he's around anymore, but he had done 12" 150lb springs and had Hellwig helpers on the truck as well and had wished he had gone with stiffer springs. I'm pretty sure the wood in that picture is softwood-green hardwoods can weight twice as much.

angrybob

You are correct. Total brain fart on my part as I read free length, but was thinking in-stroke.

85TurboRunner

I see where you're going with that.