Too many miles for synthetic oil?
#23
You can buy a tool to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube, or do it at draining. You need a kit to put the oil in ,it comes with a small sample bottle. Obviously i get mine thru Amsoil and send it off. Its like 22 bucks with paid postage. There are others out there that do it,I just order mine when i get my oil so they can throw it in and save on shipping
#24
IMO, I think that synthetic is too slippery to use in high mileage motors, this is the cause of most of the 'leak' stories... I have had a 4.3 chevvie seeping on the rear main, switched back to dino oil and it's gone. It's just too slippery of an oil for high mileage cars. Doesn't fill the nooks and crannies, in the cylinders, in the seals, etc. Some people like it... I have run it in several cars and when the vehicle is NEW and tight (new car or rebuilt motor--broken in with dino for 5k and then move to synthetic) I have had success and liked the results. But with my fresh 22re I'm keeping it dino, running Rotella 10-40, and soon to be adding STP (blue bottle) each oil change for zinc protection of the cam lobes/lifters...as much of todays oil is being de-zinced. New cars don't like zinc (roller cams don't need it, catalytic don't like it)... "Brad Penn" oil is also on the list to check out, I have never used it but I liked the old Kendall oil, which was recently re-branded as Brad Penn, and still made using the same crude oil stock, from PA, USA.
#25
IMO, I think that synthetic is too slippery to use in high mileage motors, this is the cause of most of the 'leak' stories... I have had a 4.3 chevvie seeping on the rear main, switched back to dino oil and it's gone. It's just too slippery of an oil for high mileage cars. Doesn't fill the nooks and crannies, in the cylinders, in the seals, etc. Some people like it... I have run it in several cars and when the vehicle is NEW and tight (new car or rebuilt motor--broken in with dino for 5k and then move to synthetic) I have had success and liked the results. But with my fresh 22re I'm keeping it dino, running Rotella 10-40, and soon to be adding STP (blue bottle) each oil change for zinc protection of the cam lobes/lifters...as much of todays oil is being de-zinced. New cars don't like zinc (roller cams don't need it, catalytic don't like it)... "Brad Penn" oil is also on the list to check out, I have never used it but I liked the old Kendall oil, which was recently re-branded as Brad Penn, and still made using the same crude oil stock, from PA, USA.
Synthetic is going to coat the insides better,Ijust got a 4runner with 196k on it ,I flushed it and changed to Amsoil. I will get a UOA done soon on it,im at 204k now, ticks are gone and no new leaks. I will change my oil again around 215k or next year it my tests come back ok. If you use a good oil you souldnt have add additives
1.Is it true that installing AMSOIL or other synthetic oils will cause my engine to leak oil?
Answer: In modern vehicles, there is no risk of AMSOIL motor oil leaking. In fact, AMSOIL motor oil is fully compatible with modern seal materials. It is properly formulated to condition seals, keeping them pliable to prevent leakage
#26
My 3VZE ran synthetic oil from 79,000 all the way until the engine was ripped out 220,000 miles. It didn't really leak, but it did burn a little when it was floored. My car's SR20DE has 209,000 and I just switched from Mobil 1 5W-30 to 0W-30 since it is available again.
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