I have a 22re out of a 1992 toyota pickup. It has new ngk iridium plugs, fairly fresh cap/rotor and the resistance on the plug wires is within spec. I just put a new tps in, and all resistance values are in spec and the airgap on the pickup coil has been adjusted within spec as well. I even checked the tps wires at the ecm side and all values check out. When I jumper te and e in the diagnostic port I get the check engine light flashing in the dash just like it should, but the timing and idle don't change at all. When the timing is at 5 btdc the adjustment bolt is rougly in the middle of the slot. I can set the timing to whatever I want, but no matter what it does not advance when I remove the jumper. When I rev the engine the mark on the crank pulley retards. I'm puzzled and out of answers please give me somthing else to try.

Nick

 

bump...

 

Is your check engine light on? Will it eventually start to advance or does it just retard a little and stay there no matter what the RPMs or throttle position are?

 

I noticed this too when I was setting my timing. Jumping the connection made no difference on the idle. Maybe I was doing it wrong? What is this jumper supposed to do? I have seen in all the manuals to do it, but it never says why.

Rob

 

No effect jumping on my 3vze. 10 degrees is all I could get, adjusted to limit. Beats me, but truck runna goood.

 

The 3vze actually runs better if you retard the timming.

The cel should be flashing when you jumper the connector. If you don't have a cel then the computer is not seeing the connector jumpered and you won't get the timming set right.

 

But that still doesn't tell me what jumping that connector does. And my 22RE starts and runs great, even though it's been below 0F here in the mornings here lately. Could my timing still be off?

Rob

 

i had the same problem when i was getting smogged. when the guy would jump the pins, nothing would happen and he said it was 20 degrees advanced i believe. luckily he let me off...
how do you go about adjusting the advancement on the 3vze?

 

Jump connectors, loosen distr., twist distr. while watching mark on camshaft pull. There's another way, not recomended. Not to familair myself. A screw or something, oh , hold on a sec'....

 

oh so that's what that light thing does...lol
any writeups you know of?
oh and is it bad to have the timing advanced? i know the smog guy says that it does give off more emissions.

 

the_supernerd:
The cel does not come on unless I have the jumper in place. When the engine is reved up the timing mark indicates that its retarding. The timing does not advance after removing the jumper. I have it set to 11 btdc currently and it runs pretty good, but if the computer ever starts to advance it in the future I should hear some pinging.

rdlsz24:
The way I understand it, when you jump TE and E together you can read any codes stored in the ecm and it also prevents the computer from advancing the timing and changing the idle so you can change the bad timing.

Bear80:
The cel continuously flashes when the jumper is in place.

 

Octane Selector, fine adjustments A/R to run different grades o' gas. 1 graduation of adjustment = 10 degrees of camshaft angle..it says. I don't even know where it at on mine. Hey supernerd, got a ques., whats broke if my lights goin' when I do that but nothin' else happens? Why do it to check timing? If when you undo nothin' changes? I'm stumped. Leprechan...school me, somebody, anybody.

 

I am a little stumped, but I will put in my .02. When you short the jumper, it turns off any computer controlled advance so you can set the base timing. If you short them and nothing happens, it means that it is not advancing for some reason. On my carbureted 22R, the vacuum advance will advance timing about 8-12* at idle. When given a slight amount of throttle, it retards to base timing, and then with a little more throttle it allows vacuum to get to the main advance and it advances again. I would think that a fuel injected 22R would advance in a similar way, the only difference being that it is computer controlled.

Here are my first two guesses:
Idle not being set correctly
Knock sensor detecting something, possibly a wrist pin knock

 

Thanks, I'll start there.

 

Well I was able to set my 22RE to 5 degrees BTDC without jumping, and like I said above, it starts and runs great. Should I worry about anything?

So I should notice a distinct difference in idle when it's jumped? I tried jumping it with a paper clip, but there was so much electrode grease (I assume) covering the contacts that I wasn't able to get good metal to metal contact.

Rob

 

When you jump the connector it puts the computer in OPEN LOOP. Meaning it does not do any dynamic engine control based on sensor inputs. Open loop is the basic factory set programing. The computer controls timming based on spark knock but also uses input from all the sensors, afm, tps and 02 but mainly the temp sensor (to see if the engine is warmed up). You need to make sure your engine is UP TO TEMP BEFORE you jump the connector and try to adjust timming.

 

OK thanks I will give it a shot this weekend.

Rob