SwampThing

Ok, well I'm finally going to have some time to fix my massive oil leak (basically 5 quarts a day if I drive er at all).

I'll give yall the rundown first so yall know what I'm gibbering on about. Well, I started leaking oil like crazy one day, and I thought it was my oil pan gasket. So I dropped my diff, and replaced the OPG, cranked her up, and low and behold, it wasn't a torn OPG from going muddin like I had thought.

Now I'm by no means an expert on engines (more experienced with body work, drivetrains, and lifts), so I'll have to try and describe where the leak is coming with my limited knowledge of engines.

The leak was coming from the passenger side of the block, more towards the "front" of the block, about level and to the right of the oil filter. From the other topic I made, we pretty much came to the conclusion that it was my timing cover seal (I'm reasonably sure the cover itself is fine, the oil was coming between the cover and the block on the lower right hand corner).

Now I'm just wondering how hard that little bugger is going to be to replace. I know that I have to drop the diff so I can drop the oil pan again, take out the compressor bracket (no need for it to even be in there, my a/c isn't even hooked up), but is that all I need to get out of the way so I have a clear shot for taking that cover off? No removing belts, no removing the fan clutch, no screwing with the crank shaft, or any other stuff? Just drop diff, drop oil pan, remove compressor, pull off timing cover, replace the paper gasket, gasket seal'er it, then put her back together?

I was told that I should do the chain and guides, but the were done when the engine was rebuilt ~22k miles ago, so I think I'll not even try to screw with that. Was also thinking about replacing my fuel filter while at it, but also cleaning out the throttle body, which I've never done yet (so any links or guides on the process for this would be nice too)

But anyhoo, thoughts and suggestions on my situation would be greatly appriciated. Also, if you have any guide or tutorial links for this type of thing, if you could give me that link, I would be one happy camper!

Elton

heres how to get the cover off http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
and the fuel filter is pretty easy cant seem to find a writeup theres one for the 3.4 and the 3.0 but no 22re ??

SwampThing

Well... Looks like I'm in for a fun time tomorrow! The only part that looks somewhat difficult is taking off the crankshaft pully. Hah, startin to think that paying a friend of mine $175 to do this for me aint such a bad idea lol...

Elton

there you go ... i see in ur sig you have 3'' pipe that 22re likeing that at all

SwampThing

Well, they're loud. Really loud. No cat either, so that combined with the magnaflow muffler (off some diesel. no idea what model it is) and 3"ers you get a real nice deep and loud note. Ricers don't believe me when I tell em it's a 4banger. They're like NO WAY could any 4cyl sound that loud without sounding like a tin coffee can!! Makes me laugh...

farmerj

I traced mine back to a oil sending unit that was going bad. I also am in the middle of replacing my DLX dash with an SR5 gauge set. Now they tell me it depends on which gage I have to order a sending unit. So I guess I get to take my dash apart again.

ovrrdrive

My rebuilt engine had a cheap timing guide break at 12k and it jumped the time and bent all the valves.

If you're going to be in there I would strongly recommend installing an engnbldr steel backed rail timing kit while you're in there unless it is already a steel backed driver's side rail...

It's a relatively cheap kit and worth it IMO.

Btw, the crank pulley just comes right off after you break the bolt loose. Put it in 5th gear with the ebrake on and it shoudl break pretty easy. just don't make the mistake of putting it in 4low, it will move the truck that way.

Also you can get it off and back on without removing the head, but one little slip and you will ruin the head gasket. I pulled my head to install mine so I would get a good seal on everything...

It's a big job but do-able... Lot's of threads on here and pics of it if you search.

SwampThing

Well, got about half way through. Put the timing cover back on, but before I could tighten all the bolts down it got dark and started POURING rain.

Wasn't that hard to get that cover off, just had to drop the radiator, fan clutch, air intake & tube, distributor, valve cover, alternator and stuff on the it's bracket. Only took enough oil pan bolts off to let it hang down a bit (so i wouldn't have to drop the diff again). Hardest part was trying to scrape the front of the block to put the new seal and rtv on it. Uhg, specially when your racing sundown and the rain clouds lol...

Timing guides were steel and looked great, timing chain looked like new, and was as tight as if you would have it if you had just done it yourself.

All I can say is...

Price of parts - $65
Price of lunch - $20
Price of beer - $40
Knowing you saved over $1800 by doing it yourself - Priceless


Took some pictures. Have to download em, then I'll post some up for yall to take a gander at.

SwampThing

OH, and some of the old gasket sealer from the timing cover fell into my oil pan while I was scraping the front of the block. Will that cause a problem? I didn't think much of it because the oil pickup screen will definitely keep that from being sucked up, but its still on my mind that even after I flush it with oil, what if some of it doesn't come out... Cause I RREEAALLLYYY don't want to have to drop my diff to drop my oil pan again....

farmerj

Answer it this way......

Would it be easier to drop the dif and oil pan?


Or replace the engine?

I pulled my timing chain cover off and the oil pan. Because I wanted to make sure my oil pick up was good. Concider it cheap insurance

SwampThing

*Sigh*

Out comes the floor jacks....

ovrrdrive

I was able to jack my engine up enough to get my pan off, but I have a 3" BL on my truck...


I also suggest dropping the pan to clean it... Sucks but it has to be done.