See the white sealing bead on the Toyota head gasket in the link below?

 

Question for the oil pan / FIPG experts. I have seen some (on youtubes) run the bead of FIPG all around the pan on the inside of the bolt holes. However, I believe I also saw a toyota diagram somewhere that seems to indicate you actually run the bead inside the indentation (that runs around the pan) but that you also come outside the indentation (at each bolt hole) and run the bead around the inside of the hole and then back into the next indentation. Which approach is best or does it matter?

 

I did the latter, run it in the groove then inside of the bolt holes (off the indentation) as per the shop manual. The pdf is an excerpt from the 1993 Toyota p/u FSM.

 

Thank you

 

Oh yes I see that

 

It says you only have 5 mins. It might take me longer to get that perfect bead around the pan, then I have to very carefully endeavour to get it in place in that tight spot under the truck. Going to be a bit stressful.

 

Does anyone know where in the FSM I might find the torque ratings on the rail that goes across the front of my 1990 4runner (22re). The rail holds up the front of the differential and is mounted with two bolts on each side. I can't seem to find the torque specs. I did manage to find the torque spects on the two vertical 19mm bolts that hold up the differential at the back (123 ft lbs).

 

Setting the valve clearances - I know that they are supposed to be set at 0.008 (intake) and 0.012 (exhaust), however, this is supposed to be done when at operating temperature. Obviously, I can't do that at this point. So, what do others suggest I set it at when cold. I have seen that perhaps if you set cold you take 0.001 of each measurement - so therefore set at 0.007 and 0.011? Or, is there another suggestion from the 22RE 4Runner experts here?

 

When I installed new cylinder head with old rocker assembly, I did 8/12. Truck ran fine. Got it hot, and adjusted 8/12. Still happy tappy. Now I adjust 7/11 cold, and yes it's still happy tappy, and it runs just fine.

 

I've been doing 0.007" and 0.011" cold the past couple times. It's easier than burning yourself on hot parts and the engine seems just as happy. I looked for the torque spec on that crossmember and couldn't find it either. I'll be honest, I've never used a torque wrench on the crossmember, the differential mounting bolts, or the CV shaft mounting nuts. I wizz all those on with an air impact. Tight is good.

 

Thanks, that confirms it for me - i will go 7/11 to have happy tappy in the jappy (I hope thats not too politically incorrect).

 

Thanks. I will go with the 7/11 setting. I torqued those bolts at 70 ft lbs. I did see something on line that noted 70 for the "Transmission Crossmember-To-Body Bolt (4WD models". That probably wasn't it but the 70 sounded about right given how difficult they were to get off. Do you think that sounds ok?

 

That's probably the crossmember for the transmission/transfer case which is right below your butt when you're sitting in the truck. I'm sure that number is in the safe range for the fasteners you're talking about on that front crossmember. In the FSM there is also a generic torque section which specifies "everything else" based on thread size and bolt grade/class.

 

Thanks.

 

Does the known timing chain cover problem on the 22RE (ie. the chain wearing through the cover) result in water getting into the oil or oil getting into the water (or both)?

 

Not likely that a holed cover could put much, if any, oil into the coolant.

 

Correct. The crankcase is vented so should be under negligible pressure. The cooling system is closed with a relief valve in the cap set to 0.9 bar or around 13 PSI. As the engine heats up the water pressure builds up. If you have a hole in the timing cover coolant will be pushed out of that hole and into the crankcase to mix with the oil. Then the engine will probably overheat from lack of coolant. If it doesn't, the lubricity of the oil is greatly reduced due to being mixed with water.

 

Valve cover now on - I hope I didn't put too much FIPG on either side of those half circles (i put a bead on the underside as well as along top. Anyways, I am at the point where I just need to snug the belts and throw in the radiator. I want to get these belts just right on the tension (it isn't really something I have done much before). Any suggestions on getting the alternator and power steering pump belts at the right tension?

 

Just tight enough so they don't squeal when you start the engine. Don't over tighten the water pump/alternator belt. If it's too tight, you could possibly cause coolant to leak out of the water pump weep hole.

I have had to tighten the water pump/alternator belt three times in four years because I would get a squeal when starting the engine hot/cold. Never had to tighten the power steering belt. Don't have AC.

 

Its a festivus miracle! Fired up the truck - it runs quite well. There is only one thing that I noticed. It ran at about 2000 rpm for a while (as is typical). Then after ~ 5 mins the rpm started wavering - I didn't check but maybe up/down between ~ 1000 and 2000. It did that for a minute or two so I shut it down. After a bit I restarted and it quickly settled in at about 1000 and then a little lower. I am seeing no signs of any leaks from the timing cover, valve cover or that great looking painted oil pan I reinstalled. And no apparent signs of coolant getting into the oil. As for the wavering - I remember now that I noticed that happened to the vehicle a few times in the recent past. Does anyone have an idea on what to check for on that one. This time the wavering happened to start at the same moment I went to wipe something off the upward facing side of the distributor - I will assume that is a coincidence though.

Now that I have let the car sit a while, I opened rad cap and I can tell that there does appear to be some oil at the top of the pink fluid. I suppose this could be leftover from the oil/water mixing, or, there could still be a problem (eg. head gasket).