Timing Chain & Cover Replacement
03-04-2021, 03:34 PM
#61
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Southeast Virginia
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 0
Received 347 Likes
on
216 Posts
Impact driver and impact wrench are different things too. An impact driver is a sort of screw driver which you hammer the back of and it imparts a short but strong twisting motion while being driven downward. When used on Phillips screws, this reduces the likelihood of the bit camming out of the head of the fastener. I do feel that this terminology has been muddied recently with cordless impact wrenches becoming more popular.
For the two bigger bolts at the rear of the differential directly to the frame, on my '87 and both my '88's, one side the nut was welded to the frame and on the other side the nut was separate. I've heard different stories from other people for other years, not sure how accurate that is though. I don't remember ever struggling with those bolts though even with only a decent breaker bar. I've never had to heat those. Hardest part is getting the wrench on the nut on top to stay in position and not fall on your face.
If you are heating anything, you want to heat as close to the thread interface as possible. Heating the head of a long bolt will do nothing to loosen the bond between the threads at the opposite end. It actually may make it worse since the metal is softer when hot and you're more likely to round the head. Same with penetrant. Spraying the head of a bolt with penetrant will not likely do anything. You want to spray the threads.
For the two bigger bolts at the rear of the differential directly to the frame, on my '87 and both my '88's, one side the nut was welded to the frame and on the other side the nut was separate. I've heard different stories from other people for other years, not sure how accurate that is though. I don't remember ever struggling with those bolts though even with only a decent breaker bar. I've never had to heat those. Hardest part is getting the wrench on the nut on top to stay in position and not fall on your face.
If you are heating anything, you want to heat as close to the thread interface as possible. Heating the head of a long bolt will do nothing to loosen the bond between the threads at the opposite end. It actually may make it worse since the metal is softer when hot and you're more likely to round the head. Same with penetrant. Spraying the head of a bolt with penetrant will not likely do anything. You want to spray the threads.
03-04-2021, 06:55 PM
#62
Registered User
Thread Starter
Impact driver and impact wrench are different things too. An impact driver is a sort of screw driver which you hammer the back of and it imparts a short but strong twisting motion while being driven downward. When used on Phillips screws, this reduces the likelihood of the bit camming out of the head of the fastener. I do feel that this terminology has been muddied recently with cordless impact wrenches becoming more popular.
For the two bigger bolts at the rear of the differential directly to the frame, on my '87 and both my '88's, one side the nut was welded to the frame and on the other side the nut was separate. I've heard different stories from other people for other years, not sure how accurate that is though. I don't remember ever struggling with those bolts though even with only a decent breaker bar. I've never had to heat those. Hardest part is getting the wrench on the nut on top to stay in position and not fall on your face.
If you are heating anything, you want to heat as close to the thread interface as possible. Heating the head of a long bolt will do nothing to loosen the bond between the threads at the opposite end. It actually may make it worse since the metal is softer when hot and you're more likely to round the head. Same with penetrant. Spraying the head of a bolt with penetrant will not likely do anything. You want to spray the threads.
For the two bigger bolts at the rear of the differential directly to the frame, on my '87 and both my '88's, one side the nut was welded to the frame and on the other side the nut was separate. I've heard different stories from other people for other years, not sure how accurate that is though. I don't remember ever struggling with those bolts though even with only a decent breaker bar. I've never had to heat those. Hardest part is getting the wrench on the nut on top to stay in position and not fall on your face.
If you are heating anything, you want to heat as close to the thread interface as possible. Heating the head of a long bolt will do nothing to loosen the bond between the threads at the opposite end. It actually may make it worse since the metal is softer when hot and you're more likely to round the head. Same with penetrant. Spraying the head of a bolt with penetrant will not likely do anything. You want to spray the threads.
03-04-2021, 09:06 PM
#63
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Southeast Virginia
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 0
Received 347 Likes
on
216 Posts
Yeah, I know some of those tools are advertised as impact drivers, that's why I said the terminology is getting muddied. It seems incorrect to me but I'm not in charge of the dictionary.
Of the few times I've removed or lowered the front differential, I've always had to remove the front bolt from the differential to the crossmember. I've found it's usually a pain to get everything back together so I generally find other ways to accomplish jobs that don't require removing or lowering the front differential.
Of the few times I've removed or lowered the front differential, I've always had to remove the front bolt from the differential to the crossmember. I've found it's usually a pain to get everything back together so I generally find other ways to accomplish jobs that don't require removing or lowering the front differential.
03-04-2021, 09:42 PM
#64
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, I know some of those tools are advertised as impact drivers, that's why I said the terminology is getting muddied. It seems incorrect to me but I'm not in charge of the dictionary.
Of the few times I've removed or lowered the front differential, I've always had to remove the front bolt from the differential to the crossmember. I've found it's usually a pain to get everything back together so I generally find other ways to accomplish jobs that don't require removing or lowering the front differential.
Of the few times I've removed or lowered the front differential, I've always had to remove the front bolt from the differential to the crossmember. I've found it's usually a pain to get everything back together so I generally find other ways to accomplish jobs that don't require removing or lowering the front differential.
03-04-2021, 09:48 PM
#65
Registered User
Lowering one so that the oil pan might come out takes substantially less work than that. You just need the right tools.
Last edited by millball; 03-04-2021 at 10:16 PM.
03-05-2021, 04:28 AM
#68
Registered User
It's not bad once you've done it...
it's a big bolt, use whatever size breaker bar you need, or a 1/2 drive impact .
I busted a 1/2 drive breaker bar the first time I did mine, bought a heavier built breaker bar and was able to bust it loose.
Your laying down for that job
USE YOUR LEGS TO PUSH ON THE BAR your legs are much stronger and you can get more leverage...
The hardest bolt I've had to remove was one of the head bolts... took like 3 days, but I won and didn't break it off.
it's a big bolt, use whatever size breaker bar you need, or a 1/2 drive impact .
I busted a 1/2 drive breaker bar the first time I did mine, bought a heavier built breaker bar and was able to bust it loose.
Your laying down for that job
USE YOUR LEGS TO PUSH ON THE BAR your legs are much stronger and you can get more leverage...
The hardest bolt I've had to remove was one of the head bolts... took like 3 days, but I won and didn't break it off.
Last edited by 87-4runner; 03-05-2021 at 04:32 AM.
03-05-2021, 11:18 AM
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
It's not bad once you've done it...
it's a big bolt, use whatever size breaker bar you need, or a 1/2 drive impact .
I busted a 1/2 drive breaker bar the first time I did mine, bought a heavier built breaker bar and was able to bust it loose.
Your laying down for that job
USE YOUR LEGS TO PUSH ON THE BAR your legs are much stronger and you can get more leverage...
The hardest bolt I've had to remove was one of the head bolts... took like 3 days, but I won and didn't break it off.
it's a big bolt, use whatever size breaker bar you need, or a 1/2 drive impact .
I busted a 1/2 drive breaker bar the first time I did mine, bought a heavier built breaker bar and was able to bust it loose.
Your laying down for that job
USE YOUR LEGS TO PUSH ON THE BAR your legs are much stronger and you can get more leverage...
The hardest bolt I've had to remove was one of the head bolts... took like 3 days, but I won and didn't break it off.
The following users liked this post:
23Noble (03-29-2021)
03-05-2021, 01:20 PM
#70
Registered User
03-08-2021, 07:56 PM
#71
Registered User
Thread Starter
These bolts are killers. It seems I did manage to get one of those back ones started. I had to put a breaker bar up on the top nut and a longer bar on the bolt head below. It did start to move. The one on the other side - no such look. I also got my 24" breaker on the nut side of one of those 4 cross member bolts. I then used my floor jack to push up on the end of the 24" breaker bar. The bar was bowing but didn't budge the nut. I don't have a real torch but perhaps I will try with my propane torch to see if I can make any progress with that.
03-08-2021, 08:04 PM
#72
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Southeast Virginia
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 0
Received 347 Likes
on
216 Posts
Propane will work, it'll just take a bit longer. I usually prop the torch up with some junk to hold it just right and sit and watch it. If I'm holding it I tend to get impatient and not wait long enough. You'll get it. Whereabouts are you located? If you're close I could lend a hand.
03-09-2021, 07:20 AM
#73
Registered User
Thread Starter
Propane will work, it'll just take a bit longer. I usually prop the torch up with some junk to hold it just right and sit and watch it. If I'm holding it I tend to get impatient and not wait long enough. You'll get it. Whereabouts are you located? If you're close I could lend a hand.
03-11-2021, 12:14 AM
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
Applied a good 5 mins of propane torch heat to one of those crossmember nuts and still unable to remove with my breaker bar. In fact I feel like I dislodged one if my ribs pushing up on that bar under the truck. That impact wrench at home depot is looking like a real possibility.
The following users liked this post:
23Noble (03-29-2021)
03-11-2021, 02:54 AM
#75
your continued ordeal in attempting to remove the pan is enough evidence to me that i’d only remove the timing cover by pulling the head, as i’ve done three times anyway. unfortunately, pulling the pan has taken longer than just pulling the head, and you haven’t even got it pulled yet.
based on your description of obstacles/difficulties, i’d almost consider pulling the whole engine rather than just the pan. if you cannot get the nut/bolt loose, you’ll have to do that anyway. if you break the bolt, you’ll be in for a lot more work and time.
based on your description of obstacles/difficulties, i’d almost consider pulling the whole engine rather than just the pan. if you cannot get the nut/bolt loose, you’ll have to do that anyway. if you break the bolt, you’ll be in for a lot more work and time.
03-11-2021, 04:37 PM
#76
Registered User
Thread Starter
your continued ordeal in attempting to remove the pan is enough evidence to me that i’d only remove the timing cover by pulling the head, as i’ve done three times anyway. unfortunately, pulling the pan has taken longer than just pulling the head, and you haven’t even got it pulled yet.
based on your description of obstacles/difficulties, i’d almost consider pulling the whole engine rather than just the pan. if you cannot get the nut/bolt loose, you’ll have to do that anyway. if you break the bolt, you’ll be in for a lot more work and time.
based on your description of obstacles/difficulties, i’d almost consider pulling the whole engine rather than just the pan. if you cannot get the nut/bolt loose, you’ll have to do that anyway. if you break the bolt, you’ll be in for a lot more work and time.
03-26-2021, 07:08 PM
#77
Registered User
Thread Starter
While waiting for the weather to warm/dry up a bit so that I can get back to this timing chain job I doused those bolts over that past week or so with wd40, pblast and liquid wrench. The other day I was finally able to crack all 6 of them loose. So today I was able to remove them and drop the differential a bit. I wasn't sure how much I could drop it without causing any problems. I started by dropping it about 2" at the front - that wasn't going to be enough, then 4" and finally almost 6". I still couldn't get oil pan out - close but not quite. I then removed one end of a shock type bar that went across at the front - as soon as i swung that bar down the pan came out the back. It is a good thing I removed that pan, it had a fair bit of the oil/coolant mixture (light brown) and many pieces of debris from the chain guides in it.
A question I have for the experts - is there a need for me to remove the oil intake unit to clean it in any way? Obviously it has been sucking up the coolant/water/oil mixture. Or is it good enough just to wipe it clean in place?
Thank you for all your tips.
A question I have for the experts - is there a need for me to remove the oil intake unit to clean it in any way? Obviously it has been sucking up the coolant/water/oil mixture. Or is it good enough just to wipe it clean in place?
Thank you for all your tips.
03-26-2021, 09:17 PM
#78
Registered User
I took mine off and sprayed it with brak-kleen inside and out. I bought a new gasket and after drying for about a week reinstalled it then the pan. No small bits and pieces were in the tube as far as I could see.
The following users liked this post:
jay4runner (03-27-2021)
