guthriea

Sorry if this is long I just want to make sure I get all the info in.

I have a 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 22re
Manual Transmission
155,000 miles on it

Just bought the truck not to long ago and unfortunately there were no service records with the truck, but I felt like I got a good deal so I took the plunge.

Since I do not have the service records of the truck and since the only car repair I have ever attempted consisted of chainging oil and tires I thought this would be a great time to learn these things.

The overall plan for the vehicle is to make it a expedition truck so long driving reliability is the primary goal.

What I have done so far.

Truck so far has run fine (around 350 miles driven so far both traffic and highway), changed the oil (which was black).

Changed coolant which was green at first but defiantly had a fair share of brown deposits.

Replaced theromostat and oxygen sensor, ignition coil had a crack in it so I replaced that as well.

Issues

The clutch slips especially in 4th and 5th gear. RPMs rev to 3500-4000 rpms before the gear catches. Pretty low power in 5th gear and almost no power going up hill, slips out again high rpms.

Idles high when warm and has the well documented brake surge. Cleaned throttle body, and replaced the main gasget into the intake. Bad deposits from the coolant in the coolant chambers in the throttle body. Cleaned them out but im pretty sure they clogged open the air vent on the bottom. (Still idles high, idle screw all the way in).

No issues that make it undrivable untill the other day going to work, I notice it ideling even higher than usuall (usual is 1000-1500) RPMs and now its hitting 2000-2500. Then I notice the temp gage is almost red, I pulled over immediatly and killed the engine. Waited for about 5 minutes and tried to crank it with no luck (very slow crank about 1-2 seconds apart.) Didnt want to mess anything else up and I had it towed back to the house (less that 2 miles.) After work I tried to start it up and it cranked right up as usual, let it run for a bit but it never overheated.

Current Repair

Got a front engine kit from engnebldr.com (chain, tensioner, metal guides, water and oil pump and cover. Followed the guide from 4x4 crawler and the FSM, and all the hints from engnebldr. So far no issues. I also ordered a Head gasget kit from them just in case.

Also ordered a HD clutch from Marlin, as well as a resurfaced flywheel and master and slave cylinders just so that the whole system has been replaced and I dont have to worry about it for a while.

Question

Timing chain cover and valve cover are still pulled off, clutch will be coming off next weekend.

Is there anything else I should be looking for while all these things are taken off the truck? Should I take down the head and install the Head gasget set just for good measure? I did not drop the oil pan but im thinking it might be a good idea just to check it for deposits and replace the gasget (worth it?) And finally at the top of the timing chain cover the piece of headgasget that sticks out over top of the cover is loose (still attached fine to the rest of the gasget but no longer adhered to that front lip of the engine that cover the top of the chain cover, is this an issue?

I err on the side of caution so that my post is to come here for advise rather than a problem that could of been avoided.

Thank you.

modlite

Maybe replace the water and oil pump since you'll be taking it off anyways?

The easiest way to drop the pan is to unbolt the engine in the front and jack it up on the bell housing. It's not hard to do but then you can get the pan out.

guthriea

Doing the water and oil pump, they came in the kit although the ones im pulling off appear to be fine, ill clean them up and then check the specs on them vs the FSM and keep them for trail parts.

Doesn't sound too difficult to jack up the engine, ill try that, thanks.

thadlinkwent

When I changed my oil pan gasket, I found it easier to drop the front differential. Undo the cv joints and the 3 bolts for the diff then dop it out of the way. About 30 mins of work.

yoterr

either way dropping the oil pan is a pretty good idea, i thought i didint get too much stuff in there when i did mine but when i changed the oil lots of gook and gasket debris came out, i just ran an additional quart of oil to try n get it all out.....as for the high idle theres LOTS of threads on that around here with varying results and issues, im sure ull find ur prob here and get it fixed, and welcome to yotatech!

thadlinkwent

I had the same thing as yoterr. Debris in the oil pan is bad.

I'm actually thinking that since I'm on unemployment to get the fipg from toyota and redo it again. The cork gasket just isn't sitting well with me.

yoterr

lol i did the tanny pan gasket on my old for about 12 times with an fipg and got frustrated with it and took it to a tranny place and did a fluid flush and they put a cork one on it and sealed perfect LMAO took em like 20 mins too

Jay351

Drop the pan, trust me.

When I did a TC on my girls 4runner earlier this summer it had destroyed the drivers side guide and most of the passenger side. There was SO much plastic debris in the oil pan, it was amazing. A few handfulls of plastic chunks that were up to 4" long! I have no idea how they didnt get chewed up by the crank gear!

I have done a cork gasket + FIPG and it worked fine, last time I only did toyota FIPG, again worked just fine.

easiest way I found to do the oil pan was to undo the three diff bolts and the d-shaft. Drop the diff down as far as it goes.

Then drop the oil pan and remove the oil pickup tube. Then you can pull everything out.