It looks like your left cam pulley is on backwards. The pulley flanges need to oppose each other in order to center the belt, keep it captive, and prevent it from walking off the pulleys.
See step 7c on page EG2-43 and step 10b on page EG2-45 of the FSM.

 

x2.


Also, make SURE ALL SLACK is between the passenger side cam pulley & crank sprocket! Any slack on the other side or between the cam pulleys will put you out of time.

 

The left cam srocket was already like that when i pulled it off and there wasnt any previous problems, what should i do to get the slack on the right side? My only slack is between waterpump and crank, tight everywhere else

 

If you are looking at the two cam pulleys in front of you, the right side pulley needs to be taken off and turned the other direction so that the flange (lip edge) is closer to you. Opposite of the pulley on the left (if you are facing them). If you do not change this now, you will be coming back to do a timing belt again in the near future. The belt is new, there is tension on it now that will cause it to start the walk off the cam sprockets.

 

I just finished the belt on my 3.0. I pulled the belt tight on the crank, looped it around the water pump, turned the drivers side cam pulley to TDC, and about 1/2 tooth to the right of TDC, fit the belt over the teeth, and let it come back to TDC which took up all the slack there. Once that was done, I took the left side of the belt over the tensioner (hydraulic pin not released yet), and with the pass side cam sprocket, TDC, rolled it forward about 1/2 tooth, and the belt slid on barely. Released the pass side cam moving it back towards TDC, and there was no slack between the two cam sprockets, a little slack at the tensioner. Once I pulled the pin in the tensioner, all slack was gone. Turn the engine over at least two full revolutions to confirm that the crank and both cam sprockets land on TDC, and you are golden...

 

i dont understand why the ˟˟˟˟head who did this last would turn the sprocket around, i understand the reasoning to why it should be turned around, but i dont understand why i had absolutely no problems with it being the way it is now, i havent had to do this before so is there a special tool to take the sprocket off? i dont really care if the belt ends up coming off, just as long as it doesnt come off while im driving it, but even then the thing i would be pissed about most is calling a tow truck, as i dont care at all about this engine and dont plan on keeping this piece of ˟˟˟˟ engine very much longer anyway, and to be honest the new one couldnt come any sooner, 3.0=unarguably the worst engine known to man, period.

 

I just did my timing belt on my old 3VZ-E and one thing to be aware of is that for each revolution, the cam gears will be a tooth retarded from the marks after you've lined them up initially. Cams on ANY 4-stroke engine are underdriven 2:1 so it works out. A timing belt engine that's really tough to crank over with the spark plugs in is a good sign you've got the belt lined up right (lots of compression).

 

Yeah, that must be why they routinely last a quarter million miles....

 

Instructions per FSM:

 

so does the crank pulley have to be tightened before i do my 2 revolutions? also, where did that picture come from? looks like a manual of somesort?

 

It comes from page EG2-47 of the FSM I linked to in post 7 above.

 

Yes
See the link in my signature where is says "Download the FSM here", click on it and download the manual! It is the ultimate manual, from the Factory...

 

Wow you are a god send, the last in depth manual i had like this was for my Corrado but i had to pay $150 for it lol, thanks alot!! Im sure ill be back again for help though

 

What about me as the first god send as I gave you the link on page 1 in post 7 on 10/23/11? I'm pouting now. LOL

You back on the road now 92Yoda?

 

LOL excuse me for not keeping up, everyone who helps are god sends. not back on the road yet, just due to being busy with other things. went and bought a new torque wrench today due to friend with one i was gonna borrow peaced to vegas yesterday lol... i think i should be good to go just finishing making the tool to tighten crank pulley right now then i gotta redo the timingbelt so the slack is between Rcam pulley and crank, correct? im unsure of how to take the drivers cam pulley off to flip it, do i need a special tool to do it?

 

Just had to tease you a bit.....

You are flipping over the drivers side cam pulley, correct? Make up your holding tool and use it to hold the cam while you loosen the cam bolt. After removing the bolt, the cam just slips off...do not loose the pin that goes into the cam alignment hole.

 

this is the holding tool i made for the CS pulley, what kind of tool do i need to do the cam pulleys?

 

That tool will work just fine for the cam.....it's exactly what I use. I put a bolt in each of the leg holes with a nut on either side of the metal leg and just stick the legs of the bolts into the spokes of the cam to hold it.

If your bolts bend, step up the diameter of the bolts.

 

ok awesome i was hoping i could use this tool for that too, well then with this manual and this tool being done, i just gotta do the timing belt again and tighten everything then i think im in the clear, im really hoping i can have this done by the end of the week... tomorrow would be even better lol, but being moved onto the night shift this week proved perfect timing because now i have daylight hours to finish this (no garage )

 

i just tried takin off the cam pulley with the tool using 5/16 bolts and one of them bent now now i gotta drill the holes bigger on the tool and put bigger bolts in, what size did you use when you did it? isnt it only supposed to be on like 80ft/lbs?