I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt, crank and cam seals, and idler pulleys. And let me say right off, thanks to all the posters on here for info. Really helps. Now to my issue. I didn't notice until opening the bag, but the Toyota timing belt I got doesn't have any markings on it for the cam or crank pulleys? And I mean nothin' Does anyone know if this part #13568-69055 is correct for a 91 V6? I did put it on around all the pulleys and it fits perfect. I'm using the manual for a 93 which has the hydraulic tensioner, so maybe mines different (spring tensioner)? Or maybe it doesn't matter as long as I line up the marks on the oil pump and the timing cover? Need some help before I go any further.
Thanks

 

did you look at the "other" side of the belt? sorry, just asking. and don't forget to look for marks on the edges and top (outer) surface of the belt too.

 

haha, yeah, I checked the flat side, the teeth and the edges of the belt on both sides. The only thing I saw was some stiching on 2 seperate teeth, but they don't line up with anything. All it has is the Toyota info on it. Trying to post a pic.

edit: just noticed the part number on the belt in my pic doesn't match the one on the bag? WTF. I does come up as for my truck on the parts website I got it from though.

 

Yeah, been there too. These days aftermarket belts -and other products- are grouped to applications. Sometimes you'll get a belt WITH timing marks that won't line up no matter how you flip the belt.

Go with the marks on your engine, rotate the engine with the fitted and properly tensioned belt by hand with a wrench with spark plugs removed, so you can feel resistance, and re tension if there is none. Now check the engine;s marks. If they're not aligned (close is expected these days) you may have the incorrect belt.

 

and since it is the 3VZE engine, even if the marks are off a bit, you won't damage anything by running it- it is a non-interference engine so no chance of a piston hitting a valve. so you may be able to install it the best you can and fine tune (move a cam one tooth one way or the other) without worrying bout damaging the engine. sadly though, that's a lot of work to dial it in. so pay close attention to the marks on the sprockets.

 

Ok, thanks guys. It definitely is the same length as the old one and fits fine, just no marks to speak of. Even has the "Toyota Genuine Parts" sticker lol

This is how close I have it now, before it got too dark. The drivers cam seems good, maybe off by 1/2 tooth, and I think the pass. is off by one tooth. Haven't fully rotated it yet though.

 

The marks on the belt are useful for initial setting, but not really necessary. What's more important is getting the cams lined up correctly. Put the belt on the crank pulley, then pull it a hard as you can to the driver side cam, then pull hard under the idler to the other cam. Looking at your pics it looks OK.

If you need a hand or another opinion, or someone to watch and drink beer give me a call, 6046171258. I'm not claiming to be an expert but I've done 2 timing belt changes on the 3.0 and 1 3.4.

Eric

 

Eric The Red is on point, the marks on the belt are not important, it is the marks on the cam pulleys as they match up to the notches on the backing plate that matter the most. install it as tightly as you can by hand, put on the tensioner, and hand rotate the crank pulley with a breaker bar 4 full rotations. if the crank pulleys notches still match up with the backing plate notches you are golden!

 

I just finished putting mine back together. My coolant / idler pulley sprung a leak after coming loose. My belt with 20k on had no marks left. A buddy and I worked getting everything right The trick is to get ever thing lined up TDC and put the belt back on. Then let the tensioner apply pressure. Rotate the crank by hand several times and check to see everthing still lines up. Thats it. The marks on the belt are helpful but aren't required

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm on my way outside to see if I can get it all to line up. Will let you know how it goes.

edit
Ok, 4 full revolutions and everything still lies up.
Does anyone know the torque setting for the bolt that holds the idler pulley with the spring tensioner attached to it? Do I just let the spring do its thing and then tighten down the bolt, or does it stay loose to allow movement in the pulley?

 

Ok, got everything back together. Just gotta get some fluids to fill everything up. I need to bleed the steering pump and fill the coolant and oil. Hopefully it all works first time Then I gotta see if I can get a timing light to finish it off. I heard bleeding the power steering is a bit of a pain due to the abs being part of it? Any tips guys?

 

Looking at the manual bleeding the power steering with ABS requires a special actuator checker. I assume it somehow triggers the ABS unit. Don't know how well it would work without it.

 

Thanks. I'll give'r a try the best I can and see what happens. I know I've taken the pump out and replaced it before and it seemed to work ok (although for the life of me I can't remember exactly what I did)

 

I used a Bando timing belt and the crankshaft mark didn't make sense. Using the old belt and some counting skills here is what I came up with.
1. Draw a line between any two teeth, use this line for the passenger side cam sprocket. The tooth to the right of the line will be tooth 1.
2. Keep counting teeth in a clockwise direction. Make your second line between tooth 46 and 47, use this line for the drivers side cam sprocket.
3. Keep counting teeth, mark the 3rd line between tooth 123 and 124, use this line for the dot mark on the bottom of the crankshaft pulley.
4. Keep counting and make sure you come up with 193 total teeth. Its helpful to mark the belt every 10th tooth.