Timing belt
Aug 25, 2013 | 06:57 PM
#1
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Timing belt
Would like to know from people how hard of a project it is to replace a timing belt on my 94 v6 3.0 truck. What do I have to take out to get to the belt and water pump. Also how hard is it to get the timing belt into the right spot for correct timing ...is it easy or something I should have a shop do ?
Aug 25, 2013 | 07:48 PM
#2
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From: San Francisco East Bay
Hmmm. This is one question that gets asked a lot, so even I will suggest you learn about the search function.
But to answer your question, you read the manual. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf Do you basically hate working on cars? Do you laugh at people who change their own oil? Would you have to take a day off work as a cardiac surgeon? Have a shop do it.
Do you think you're basically mechanical, and would like to tackle a job like this (if you don't screw it up)? Then do it.
Two things you need to know. First, the spec torque on the crank bolt is 181 ft-lbs. Meaning, you're going to have to really lean on it to get it off -- but the crank is going to want to turn! So you need a method to keep the crank from turning. There are lots of methods described on this site (some pretty scary), but keep in mind that once you get the bolt out you still have to put it back in. So you can use the starter if you're really brave, but then you're stuck when it comes time to put it back together. So you need a crank-holding tool. There are lots of really good ones described here; I, of course, am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/
Second, the 3VZE is a non-interference engine, meaning you can turn the cams with the belt off without worrying about clobbering a piston. What this means is that you don't need to worry about cam timing; as you're putting the belt back on you can turn the cams a little left or right to get the mark pointing straight up. (Do spin the crank twice after you get the belt tightened; you want to be sure it comes around to the right place.)
Have fun!
But to answer your question, you read the manual. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf Do you basically hate working on cars? Do you laugh at people who change their own oil? Would you have to take a day off work as a cardiac surgeon? Have a shop do it.
Do you think you're basically mechanical, and would like to tackle a job like this (if you don't screw it up)? Then do it.
Two things you need to know. First, the spec torque on the crank bolt is 181 ft-lbs. Meaning, you're going to have to really lean on it to get it off -- but the crank is going to want to turn! So you need a method to keep the crank from turning. There are lots of methods described on this site (some pretty scary), but keep in mind that once you get the bolt out you still have to put it back in. So you can use the starter if you're really brave, but then you're stuck when it comes time to put it back together. So you need a crank-holding tool. There are lots of really good ones described here; I, of course, am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/
Second, the 3VZE is a non-interference engine, meaning you can turn the cams with the belt off without worrying about clobbering a piston. What this means is that you don't need to worry about cam timing; as you're putting the belt back on you can turn the cams a little left or right to get the mark pointing straight up. (Do spin the crank twice after you get the belt tightened; you want to be sure it comes around to the right place.)
Have fun!
Last edited by scope103; Aug 25, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
Aug 25, 2013 | 08:04 PM
#3
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From: Orange County, CA
You have to remove the radiator and cooling fan, so you will be doing a coolant refresh.
I did mine a few months ago, and it honestly was not too bad. My first time with a V-engine, so took me a bit to get used to the two cams, but no big deal in the long run.
If they have not been done before, you may want to seriously consider new valve stem seals, camshaft seals, crank seal, and a valve clearance adjustment. These all add to the job, but after doing them my truck no longer uses any oil. The 3VZE is known to burn up the #6 valve and a valve clearance adjustment will keep that from happening.
I did mine a few months ago, and it honestly was not too bad. My first time with a V-engine, so took me a bit to get used to the two cams, but no big deal in the long run.
If they have not been done before, you may want to seriously consider new valve stem seals, camshaft seals, crank seal, and a valve clearance adjustment. These all add to the job, but after doing them my truck no longer uses any oil. The 3VZE is known to burn up the #6 valve and a valve clearance adjustment will keep that from happening.
Dec 1, 2014 | 03:03 PM
#4
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Seymour, Tennessee
Timming Belt
Hello, I am replacing the Timing belt & water pump in my
and my holding tool on the http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=camshaft pulley failed and the http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=camshaft slipped a few turns when trying to remove the camshaft pulley bolt. I relined the marks on the camshaft gear & belt, and on the top L&R cam on the belt . I also turned it around once like in your pictures and it lined up at TDC & 0. Needless to say the engine will not start. I thought as long as you reline up the marks it did not mater if the camshaft was turned? Is my timing off? I have ordered a new Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 PC179 in case its electrical. Any help you could give me would be appreciated.
Dec 1, 2014 | 03:35 PM
#5
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,380
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From: San Francisco East Bay
Is the ignition timing correct? If you are off by 180° the belt marks will still line up (you'll be firing the plugs at the top of the exhaust stroke). Pull the distributor cap, turn the crank to TDC, and the rotor should be just past the #1 plug post. If off by 180°, it will be easier to remove the distributor and carefully reinstall it correctly. Don't forget that you are turning a helical gear; follow the instructions in the manual.
What did you use for a holding tool? Don't you wish you had searched YotaTech before you did this job?
What did you use for a holding tool? Don't you wish you had searched YotaTech before you did this job?
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