ok, so my alignment has been off for years now, and i recently hit a curb at about 30 mph while avoiding some other idiot on the road, so now the alignment is even worse. anyways, i know my tie rods are shot (they seriously look like the original ones and it's 21 years old). i wanted to just do a 1/2 assed garage alignment to get it closer than it currently is but i couldn't get the tie rods to rotate. i tried to bust them loose using heat, PB blaster, and couldn't. so i broke down and took it to belle tire. they called me and said they split one of them trying to get it to break loose. so now i gotta replace a tie rod, and i might as well do them all while i'm at it. they quoted me at $600, and the parts are only $66 from the local auto zone, so obviously i'm gonna do it myself.

i've never done much with suspension components. i know what a tie rod is. . . .i think. . . .but that's about it. so lay it on me. what's the process on changing these bad boys? i'm assuming there's already some good writeups somewhere, but i didn't find any in my quick forum search.

 

sub scribed, gonna be doin mine when it gets warm.

 

The process as follows:

Loosen some bolts. Remove the old junk. Replace with new Junk. Tighten some bolts.

I think you'll find it really is that simple. Its super simple once you just go out there and look at it for 5 seconds. So, go do the work, and report back to us with a writeup on how to change tie rod ends.

 

When spinning out each tie-rod end out of the sleeve, count the turns, then install the new end the same number of turns as the one you took out. That should get you plenty close to not chew up tires on your way to the alignment rack. You also may want to measure the overall length of the rods as a double-check to compare to when you're done.

 

I wouldn't suggest the counting the threads method, unless he uses OEM parts and the old ones are OEM as well. Aftermarket tie rods tend to have different thread counts, and different overall lengths.

The best way to do it is measure the length before you take it apart, and then set them to the exact same length when installing new ones, as Abe suggested.

 

you mention spinning them, but if they are rusted solid (hence the original problem), how am i going to spin them off?

 

spin what off?

The adjuster sleeve? Buy complete tie rod assemblies. Then just set them the same as the ones that are on there and just swap them out.

 

That's an option too.

 

Im doing the same thing its worth the extra $30...

 

Subscribed! Going to be doing mine too.
How hard is the work? Is it any less difficult if the truck sits on jack stands?
Thanks!

 

You don't need it to be on jackstands, you can do the work with the truck sitting on the ground.

 

Good to know.
Kudos for the heads up!

 

its easier to have a single jack (I find) so you can turn it to total left or right lock for whatever side you're working on. Leaving the other side on the ground prevents the steering from flopping around.

 

awakening the semi-old thread.

The passenger-side inner-tie rod end has gone kaput. The symptom is a noticeable steering clunk when I started rolling in reverse. I jacked the nose up, yanked the tires and started wiggling things -- found it pretty quickly.

I'm hoping one of the local Toyota shops will have them in stock tomorrow, but I sorta doubt it. sigh.

 

if it helps, there's a ton of pics that you might find useful in this thread


I'd recommend replacing the adjuster sleeves while you're at it as well; make the alignment job easier, and they're only like $10 each from a local shop (might have to be ordered though)

 

im gonna do my tie rods and ends soon, i hope it as easy as it sounds

 

Thanks for the linky. I only have to do one tie-rod end (inner, passenger side), so I may buy both adjuster sleeves and only replace one for now -- depends on whether they have them in stock or not. The (ball joint on the) tie rod end is so sloppy I need to get it done this weekend, if not before.

While I was poking around, I noticed that the driver front wheel bearings were showing a minuscule amount of slop, meaning I'll have to tear into them before the end of the year.

 

Here are some theads on doing a string alignment which will not be perfect but close enough for the drive to have a professional job done:

http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_4WD_Align...ions_Main.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ite-up-163432/
http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/susp/string.html haha, a Hummer thread

rockauto.com sells Beck/Arnley parts, and most if not all of their suspension parts are Japanese-made Sankei, which I think are the oem parts, for much less than from the dealer. Don't forget the tie rod end adjusting sleeves.

If the idler arm bushings haven't been replaced in a while, it may be a good time to do them. Be aware there are two different size bushings; I'm not sure what year was the first year with the new size, but someone around here must know... Anyway the dealer should be able to supply the right size.

Some idler arm bushing writeups:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-arm-179554/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...number-200635/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...ld-how-144151/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=300937

 

i just replaced my tie rods idler and pitman... it will make your life 10 times easier if you lift up the front so you can move the tires to get the end of the tie rod out..
and even though the threads might be different you should still count the threads you will be closer that way then by guessing.

Then after your all done goto firestone and they gotta deal on alighnments for life for $120!

 

Well, I only need to replace the inner TRE, so it's pretty easy to get to.

There's a Firestone shop very close to my house, I'll check in on that. Thanks.