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Tightening torsion bars

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Old 12-28-2008, 08:08 PM
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Tightening torsion bars

I've only heard bad things about tightening the torsion bars on IFS to lift it.

I've heard that doing this puts a lot more stress on the axles, and axles become more prone to break on the trail.

I was wondering what everyone thinks about the tightened torsion bar lift.

Also, I only assume that if they are tightened for 2inches of lift it will put more stress on the axles than it would tightened 1inch??

Thanks in advance for replying to a noob thread.

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Old 12-28-2008, 08:21 PM
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yes the higher u tighten it the stiffer and more unforgiving your ride will be, the PO of my truck tightened them about 1.5 or 2 inches i'm geussing. i dont mind the stiff ride, because i'm used to driving a f250 on 7 inch springs, but i do plan to relax em a bit when i install my BJ spacers.
Old 12-28-2008, 09:01 PM
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The biggest issue with cranking the t-bars, besides the rougher ride, is the angles the outer joints end up running at and the wear on the boots. 'Fully extended' is part of the design of the trucks' suspension so it doesn't really affect the joint itself. If you have manual hubs and unlock them and keep the transfer case out of 4wd it's not such a big deal 'cause you're not spinning the axles.
Old 12-28-2008, 09:41 PM
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It also affects your camber, to the point where your tires will wear out a lot faster on the outside edge. This is due to toyota using unequal length control arms, as well as the placement of said control arms.
Old 12-28-2008, 10:59 PM
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Hmm, I didn't even think about the camber.

This is a noob question - So by tightening the torion bars or loosening them is that for alighnment? (I feel really dumb. Sorry. lol).

Is there a way to fix the camber after tightening the t bars?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:01 PM
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The lower control arms have eccentric adjuster bolts fore and aft that can be used to correct camber, and to a limited extent, the caster as well.
Old 12-29-2008, 01:21 AM
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I would not recommend cranking your t-bars, it will make it hard to perform a proper alignment, cause steering components and axles to wear out quicker, diminish ride quality, and depending on how you wheel, not perform any better than stock off road. I'm not saying your truck will melt if you crank 'em, but from what I have seen having these things up on alignment racks, and having torsion IFS myself I wouldn't do it unless all you do is play in the mud everyday. The reason your torsion bars are adjustable is so that ride height can be adjusted to factory specs. this is the first step in performing an alignment.
Old 12-29-2008, 09:22 AM
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Aaaa, ok.

Great info guys.

I think I'm not going to do the t-bar lift. Hearing about all the problems it can cause just doesn't seem worth the 1 or 2inch lift it provides.

Thanks for talking me out of it. I didn't know about all the bad stuff it does.
Old 12-29-2008, 09:38 AM
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not to jack this thread, but one of the brackets that hold the torsion bar to the frame is broke on mine. what will this affect?

also between the lower a arm and the rubber stop is only bout a inch. is this correct?
Old 12-29-2008, 10:02 AM
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If a bracket that holds the torsion bar is broken, you essentially have no "spring" on that side. You will need to get that fixed ASAP.
Old 12-29-2008, 11:35 AM
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I wouldn't crank them. Never in the history of the world has anyone said anything positive (except about looks) about a Tbar crank.
Old 12-29-2008, 11:41 AM
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Get ball joint spacers for an easy lift. Its better than cranking your torsion bars.
Old 12-29-2008, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
If a bracket that holds the torsion bar is broken, you essentially have no "spring" on that side. You will need to get that fixed ASAP.
the nut is stripped in the frame. do you think weldin a stud in there will be a good fix. i was gonna retap it but the hole in the frame is already to big. thanks
Old 12-29-2008, 12:53 PM
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The nut is probably not stripped. There should be two nuts- one to actually adjust and one to back it / lock it. You have to separate the two nuts then hold the nut closest to the adjuster arm with a wrench while you turn the bolt.
Old 12-29-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
The nut is probably not stripped. There should be two nuts- one to actually adjust and one to back it / lock it. You have to separate the two nuts then hold the nut closest to the adjuster arm with a wrench while you turn the bolt.
on the -u- shaped bracket, thats bolted to the frame?
Old 12-29-2008, 03:34 PM
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Not to mention the bump steer from HELL!
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
The nut is probably not stripped. There should be two nuts- one to actually adjust and one to back it / lock it. You have to separate the two nuts then hold the nut closest to the adjuster arm with a wrench while you turn the bolt.
Only 2 nuts on pre '88 IFS. My '90 doesn't have two. I know this because I just snapped the bolt inside the nut while loosening my T bars so it rides at stock height after BJ spacers.
Old 12-29-2008, 03:57 PM
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Did the truck crash down on you?
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigblock
Did the truck crash down on you?
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No, it was on stands, wheels off the ground.
Old 12-29-2008, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
Only 2 nuts on pre '88 IFS. My '90 doesn't have two. I know this because I just snapped the bolt inside the nut while loosening my T bars so it rides at stock height after BJ spacers.
IIRC, scuba's 91 has dual nuts on the adjuster bolt... (no way to make that sound 'clean')

Last edited by abecedarian; 12-29-2008 at 04:52 PM.


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