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Thinking about going SAS need your input

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Old 06-21-2009, 09:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RoBatt
I'm not doubting your knowledge the only reason that I quoted the link was because you said my description was to vague and the link was my description of what I thought was wrong and this wasn't suppose to be a thread about what is wrong with my diff anyway it's about me getting a sas which you love giving anyone that asks about it Or wants one crap like it's a sin to want one or they arnt worthy bc they don't wheel as hard as you think they should to deserve one...

that would be great if it was only a broken cv but the only thing that is making me doubt that is they are only 2 years old
it just started making a loud grinding noise similar to the noise it made when the bearings needed to be replaced But it isn't the bearings I got the dealership to check it out it only makes the souund on the passenger side
4wd still works it actually made the noise stop temporarily when I would be driving it
I am pretty sure it isn't leaking fluid
you have manual hubs? and it makes the noise when your not in 4wd?
Old 06-21-2009, 09:28 PM
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No I have auto hubs and it makes the noise when not in 4wd it's pretty weird
Old 06-21-2009, 10:00 PM
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Well im not familiar with ADD hubs but if your front drive shaft is not spinning then Im pretty sure its not your differential atleast it is that way with manual hubs.
Old 06-22-2009, 06:57 AM
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well with ADD hubs the hubs are always locked so whenever the front tires turn it turns the CVs which turn the diff so i still think the diff could be the problem not that it is def the diff but i think its more likely to be the dif than the CVs
Old 06-22-2009, 07:49 AM
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Those are classic symptoms of a dry spindle bushing. VERY easy to fix. There's a thread about how to make a tool to lube the bushing without pulling the CV, but IMHO it's just as easy to pull the CV...

As for the SAS comment ... yeah, I try to help people NOT spend $3k - $5k that won't do anything for them. Sorry for being helpful.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RoBatt
well with ADD hubs the hubs are always locked so whenever the front tires turn it turns the CVs which turn the diff so i still think the diff could be the problem not that it is def the diff but i think its more likely to be the dif than the CVs
fix it and switch to manual hubs ?
Old 06-22-2009, 11:22 AM
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i love being locked and having a SAS.. this is my 3rd truck in a row i have done SAS to.
Old 06-22-2009, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
Those are classic symptoms of a dry spindle bushing. VERY easy to fix. There's a thread about how to make a tool to lube the bushing without pulling the CV, but IMHO it's just as easy to pull the CV...
Alright thanks ill look into it
Old 06-22-2009, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by whokrz
I would recommend learning to weld before doing a SAS.
I bought a Miller 175 mig, researched welding on the internet, watched the instructional video that came with the welder, and started to practice on scrap metal, when I thought I had the hang of it I took it down the the local welding shop and asked him if I did it correctly and if it would hold up on a trucks suspension. They also have welding classes at junior college for cheap if you wanted to go that route.
The reason I have brought this up is because for the price you are going to be charged for someone to do the swap you can buy a nice welder and all of the hand tools you will ever need for fixing your truck. In the future you are going to need a welder for your truck. Rock sliders, bumpers, brackets, and all of the other modifications that we are always wanting to make on our vehicles. If you have a welder and know how to use it none of this is a big deal, but if you don't it ends up costing lots of money.
I would buy a use diff on craigs list for no more than $200, or if you know someone that just did a SAS they probably have the old diff laying around like I do. Then I would spend my money on a welder and learn to use it. I would also spend lots of time reading about how to do a SAS and the problems people have with different products. Such as trail gear springs I have read and seen pictures that they sag unevenly due to the poor metal quality. Marlins springs use better metal and do not have issues but cost a little more.
I spent 6 months reading about products and how to SAS before I ever started cutting on my truck. It is also nice to have a spare vehicle to drive to work while you are cutting up your truck.
i agree with the welder bit... i picked up a arc welder from Harbor Freight for around $160 plus a special tool that lowers the amps enough for me to weld on sheet metal (very useful for body work, but still very capable of blowing holes through it ) and it's worked out great. Migs are much easier to use, but arc welders make much more heavy duty welds that i would trust with the suspension under my car.

But definitely by a welder and start practicing, because if you do intend to keep modding ur truck, ur gonna need the welder and experience. plus ur friends will love you.
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