Thinking about going SAS need your input
06-20-2009, 08:40 PM
#1
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Thinking about going SAS need your input
Well long story short my front diff has gone bad and it needs to be replaced... and why look at it as a burden when it could be an opportunity for improvements and advantages so im thinking about getting rid of the ifs once and for all!!!
But i have a few questions of course
Do brand names make a very big difference? Is there a better brand to go with cause if im going to do this im gonna do it right
Also around how much would it cost to get someone to install as much as i wish i could do it on my own i can't......
On the 4runners when it comes to any thing i HATE a saggy butt i like a level look should i get taller springs in the back or something? what did you do?
lastly around how much would an axle cost? should i go with a junk yard axle or look for a rebuilt one? so on so fourth
Thanks guys YT ROCKS
But i have a few questions of course
Do brand names make a very big difference? Is there a better brand to go with cause if im going to do this im gonna do it right
Also around how much would it cost to get someone to install as much as i wish i could do it on my own i can't......
On the 4runners when it comes to any thing i HATE a saggy butt i like a level look should i get taller springs in the back or something? what did you do?
lastly around how much would an axle cost? should i go with a junk yard axle or look for a rebuilt one? so on so fourth
Thanks guys YT ROCKS
06-20-2009, 08:58 PM
#2
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ive seen homemade kits with springs and custom fab that work pretty well. but i think 4crawler makes a very good kit. but that will convert you to leaf springs. as for an axle you can get them from 300-500 or so. the last one i inquired about was 400 i think. if you can rebuild the axle go for it. if not, leave it to a pro or buy a complete.
ps if you sell off your ifs lift parts let me know.
ps if you sell off your ifs lift parts let me know.
06-20-2009, 09:02 PM
#3
Registered User
I would go Trail Gear. Contact YotaTech user Tofer, he will hook you up
Your going to pay up the ass to have someone install it it's quite time consuming
SHop craigslist for axles, you will pay way too much at a junkyard (they want 500 usually)
Your going to pay up the ass to have someone install it it's quite time consuming
SHop craigslist for axles, you will pay way too much at a junkyard (they want 500 usually)
Last edited by algranger; 06-20-2009 at 09:04 PM.
06-21-2009, 06:05 AM
#4
You will need to do driveshaft mods too. SAS is not cheap.
Drive to Tuscaloosa and we'll get it done and you can learn how while doing.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 06-21-2009 at 06:07 AM.
06-21-2009, 07:36 AM
#5
Contributing Member
To do it RIGHT with you doing the labor, figure $3k.
If Wabbit says he'll do the labor for $1k, that's worth the drive from Columbia to Tuscaloosa! It's about 2 days work, at $100/hr shop rate for fabrication, you're looking at $1600 - $2000.
Do you 'wheel hard enough to justify a $5000 expense? Being that your signature appears to list everything but an oil change and I don't see a locker in the list, then, no, you don't.
So, to the REAL question - what's wrong with your diff and how do you know?
Long story short - you can replace your diff with a junkyard one for about what the axle will cost. You can probably do the labor, or have friends who can. You probably have all the tools you need. It will take an afternoon, maybe a full day at most.
If Wabbit says he'll do the labor for $1k, that's worth the drive from Columbia to Tuscaloosa! It's about 2 days work, at $100/hr shop rate for fabrication, you're looking at $1600 - $2000.
Do you 'wheel hard enough to justify a $5000 expense? Being that your signature appears to list everything but an oil change and I don't see a locker in the list, then, no, you don't.
So, to the REAL question - what's wrong with your diff and how do you know?
Long story short - you can replace your diff with a junkyard one for about what the axle will cost. You can probably do the labor, or have friends who can. You probably have all the tools you need. It will take an afternoon, maybe a full day at most.
Last edited by tc; 06-21-2009 at 07:38 AM.
06-21-2009, 07:55 AM
#6
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You asked for input - I think you're crazy.
You pulled the front diff to put the bracket lift on, so you know how easy it is. It's even easier now that it's 4" farther away from you're oil pan.
Around here those diffs are common in yard trucks which tells me they don't go out too often and they can be had for as cheap as $100 at a u-pull it yard.
I also agree with tc on the "lockers before SAS" bit.
You pulled the front diff to put the bracket lift on, so you know how easy it is. It's even easier now that it's 4" farther away from you're oil pan.
Around here those diffs are common in yard trucks which tells me they don't go out too often and they can be had for as cheap as $100 at a u-pull it yard.
I also agree with tc on the "lockers before SAS" bit.
06-21-2009, 08:04 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
To do it RIGHT with you doing the labor, figure $3k.
If Wabbit says he'll do the labor for $1k, that's worth the drive from Columbia to Tuscaloosa! It's about 2 days work, at $100/hr shop rate for fabrication, you're looking at $1600 - $2000.
Do you 'wheel hard enough to justify a $5000 expense? Being that your signature appears to list everything but an oil change and I don't see a locker in the list, then, no, you don't.
So, to the REAL question - what's wrong with your diff and how do you know?
Long story short - you can replace your diff with a junkyard one for about what the axle will cost. You can probably do the labor, or have friends who can. You probably have all the tools you need. It will take an afternoon, maybe a full day at most.
If Wabbit says he'll do the labor for $1k, that's worth the drive from Columbia to Tuscaloosa! It's about 2 days work, at $100/hr shop rate for fabrication, you're looking at $1600 - $2000.
Do you 'wheel hard enough to justify a $5000 expense? Being that your signature appears to list everything but an oil change and I don't see a locker in the list, then, no, you don't.
So, to the REAL question - what's wrong with your diff and how do you know?
Long story short - you can replace your diff with a junkyard one for about what the axle will cost. You can probably do the labor, or have friends who can. You probably have all the tools you need. It will take an afternoon, maybe a full day at most.
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06-21-2009, 08:29 AM
#8
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I would recommend learning to weld before doing a SAS.
I bought a Miller 175 mig, researched welding on the internet, watched the instructional video that came with the welder, and started to practice on scrap metal, when I thought I had the hang of it I took it down the the local welding shop and asked him if I did it correctly and if it would hold up on a trucks suspension. They also have welding classes at junior college for cheap if you wanted to go that route.
The reason I have brought this up is because for the price you are going to be charged for someone to do the swap you can buy a nice welder and all of the hand tools you will ever need for fixing your truck. In the future you are going to need a welder for your truck. Rock sliders, bumpers, brackets, and all of the other modifications that we are always wanting to make on our vehicles. If you have a welder and know how to use it none of this is a big deal, but if you don't it ends up costing lots of money.
I would buy a use diff on craigs list for no more than $200, or if you know someone that just did a SAS they probably have the old diff laying around like I do. Then I would spend my money on a welder and learn to use it. I would also spend lots of time reading about how to do a SAS and the problems people have with different products. Such as trail gear springs I have read and seen pictures that they sag unevenly due to the poor metal quality. Marlins springs use better metal and do not have issues but cost a little more.
I spent 6 months reading about products and how to SAS before I ever started cutting on my truck. It is also nice to have a spare vehicle to drive to work while you are cutting up your truck.
I bought a Miller 175 mig, researched welding on the internet, watched the instructional video that came with the welder, and started to practice on scrap metal, when I thought I had the hang of it I took it down the the local welding shop and asked him if I did it correctly and if it would hold up on a trucks suspension. They also have welding classes at junior college for cheap if you wanted to go that route.
The reason I have brought this up is because for the price you are going to be charged for someone to do the swap you can buy a nice welder and all of the hand tools you will ever need for fixing your truck. In the future you are going to need a welder for your truck. Rock sliders, bumpers, brackets, and all of the other modifications that we are always wanting to make on our vehicles. If you have a welder and know how to use it none of this is a big deal, but if you don't it ends up costing lots of money.
I would buy a use diff on craigs list for no more than $200, or if you know someone that just did a SAS they probably have the old diff laying around like I do. Then I would spend my money on a welder and learn to use it. I would also spend lots of time reading about how to do a SAS and the problems people have with different products. Such as trail gear springs I have read and seen pictures that they sag unevenly due to the poor metal quality. Marlins springs use better metal and do not have issues but cost a little more.
I spent 6 months reading about products and how to SAS before I ever started cutting on my truck. It is also nice to have a spare vehicle to drive to work while you are cutting up your truck.
06-21-2009, 08:43 AM
#9
Registered User
If you look on Pirate or marlin there are people who have front diffs that they will give away to get them out of their garages, etc.
I looked and ended up paying $150 i think for a front diff with 4.56, a Lockright in it and a set of manual hubs for my Toyota.
I'd stay away from junkyards. Check those boards, and craigslist.
Do you know what ratio you need? Hold out for the right one. Makes no sense to buy a used diff and then change the gears to match your rear. Post the ratio you need and maybe I will run across one one my journeys across multiple forums.
I looked and ended up paying $150 i think for a front diff with 4.56, a Lockright in it and a set of manual hubs for my Toyota.
I'd stay away from junkyards. Check those boards, and craigslist.
Do you know what ratio you need? Hold out for the right one. Makes no sense to buy a used diff and then change the gears to match your rear. Post the ratio you need and maybe I will run across one one my journeys across multiple forums.
Last edited by dntsdad; 06-21-2009 at 08:45 AM.
06-21-2009, 01:13 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
If you look on Pirate or marlin there are people who have front diffs that they will give away to get them out of their garages, etc.
I looked and ended up paying $150 i think for a front diff with 4.56, a Lockright in it and a set of manual hubs for my Toyota.
I'd stay away from junkyards. Check those boards, and craigslist.
Do you know what ratio you need? Hold out for the right one. Makes no sense to buy a used diff and then change the gears to match your rear. Post the ratio you need and maybe I will run across one one my journeys across multiple forums.
I looked and ended up paying $150 i think for a front diff with 4.56, a Lockright in it and a set of manual hubs for my Toyota.
I'd stay away from junkyards. Check those boards, and craigslist.
Do you know what ratio you need? Hold out for the right one. Makes no sense to buy a used diff and then change the gears to match your rear. Post the ratio you need and maybe I will run across one one my journeys across multiple forums.
06-21-2009, 03:28 PM
#14
Contributing Member
The passenger side flange is loose making a horrible noise when driving http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
How do you know it's loose? What diagnosis have you done so far?
06-21-2009, 05:23 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
^^i posted the link for a reason let me help you a little
'86-95 IFS trucks and 4Runners, and all '93-98 T100s use a 7.5" front diff that is offset to the passenger's side. Later models came with ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) which uses a vacuum actuated mechanism to disconnect the drivers side axle shaft from the differential. Carriers and gear sets are interchangeable between the two different versions (and also happen to be the same as used in the 2wd Toyota pickup 7.5" diffs). One difference between ADD and non-ADD diffs is that the carrier in an ADD differential has needle bearings supporting the axle shafts at the differential. The non-ADD diffs did not have this bearing and sometimes the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage. ADD and non-ADD diffs are swappable as are most of their parts. This makes it possible to change your ADD diff to non-ADD by simply swapping parts as I've done in the picture to the right. This is desirable to some people since some of the ADD stubs are smaller diameter than the non-ADD stubs and are therefore slightly weaker.
- Passenger's side
- Low pinion
- 27 spline axles
i know its loose because i take my hand and wiggle it and notice it has alot of play it has CMs instead of MMs
'86-95 IFS trucks and 4Runners, and all '93-98 T100s use a 7.5" front diff that is offset to the passenger's side. Later models came with ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) which uses a vacuum actuated mechanism to disconnect the drivers side axle shaft from the differential. Carriers and gear sets are interchangeable between the two different versions (and also happen to be the same as used in the 2wd Toyota pickup 7.5" diffs). One difference between ADD and non-ADD diffs is that the carrier in an ADD differential has needle bearings supporting the axle shafts at the differential. The non-ADD diffs did not have this bearing and sometimes the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage. ADD and non-ADD diffs are swappable as are most of their parts. This makes it possible to change your ADD diff to non-ADD by simply swapping parts as I've done in the picture to the right. This is desirable to some people since some of the ADD stubs are smaller diameter than the non-ADD stubs and are therefore slightly weaker.
- Passenger's side
- Low pinion
- 27 spline axles
i know its loose because i take my hand and wiggle it and notice it has alot of play it has CMs instead of MMs
06-21-2009, 05:25 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
06-21-2009, 05:31 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
it moves about a cm im just trying to say i think that it has too much play i cant explain the noise but its really loud and coming from the passenger tire you can feel it vibrate the floorboard
06-21-2009, 07:26 PM
#19
Contributing Member
Sounds to me like you're chasing a ghost based on a little blurb that you read on the internet. Oh, and thanks for quoting the link before like I haven't ever seen one of these diffs or had it completely apart or anything 
What made you check it out in the first place?
Is it leaking fluid?
Making noise?
4WD doesn't work? Does 4WD light come on?
To be honest, it's sounding more like broken CV than broken diff from what I have heard so far.
What made you check it out in the first place?
Is it leaking fluid?
Making noise?
4WD doesn't work? Does 4WD light come on?
To be honest, it's sounding more like broken CV than broken diff from what I have heard so far.
06-21-2009, 09:13 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sounds to me like you're chasing a ghost based on a little blurb that you read on the internet. Oh, and thanks for quoting the link before like I haven't ever seen one of these diffs or had it completely apart or anything
What made you check it out in the first place?
Is it leaking fluid?
Making noise?
4WD doesn't work? Does 4WD light come on?
To be honest, it's sounding more like broken CV than broken diff from what I have heard so far.
What made you check it out in the first place?
Is it leaking fluid?
Making noise?
4WD doesn't work? Does 4WD light come on?
To be honest, it's sounding more like broken CV than broken diff from what I have heard so far.
that would be great if it was only a broken cv but the only thing that is making me doubt that is they are only 2 years old
it just started making a loud grinding noise similar to the noise it made when the bearings needed to be replaced But it isn't the bearings I got the dealership to check it out it only makes the souund on the passenger side
4wd still works it actually made the noise stop temporarily when I would be driving it
I am pretty sure it isn't leaking fluid
