Yellowtruck

I can pick up a new thermostat today, w/out the jiggle valve, or I can order a new thermostat and have it sent here from Portland that does have the jiggle valve. The cost difference is $9.99 and $21.47.
As far as I know my thermostat is still good. It;s the gasket that has created a leak. I might as well replace the thermostat as well as the gasket while I'm under there.

I've been told that I can do w/out the jiggle valve. All I would need to do is drill a very small hole where the valve would normally go.
Any reccommendation/advice that may save me some time or money?

tardman91

If it's supposed to have the jiggle valve, then go with the jiggle valve, unless you're in that much of a hurry to get it fixed.

Yellowtruck

Not in that much of a hurry. Just impatient and tired of driving the wife's car and dropping her off at work.
I think I just found one at another parts store with the jiggle valve and cheaper.

I was just wondering if anyone has ever used the drill method when they didn't have a a stat with the jiggle valve?

BMcEL

Drilling about a 1/16" hole works fine, but I wouldn't recommend buying a cheap thermostat. I did and it ended up failing (open luckily) within a few months. Replace it once with a quality part. Just my $.02.

The MAN

the jiggle pin is to help air bleed off easier... no big deal without it, you'd just have to warm up the motor and burp it slowly

if I were you, I'd get a toyota thermostat instead of that aftermarket garbage... they last a long time and work reliably unlike the aftermarket junk... plus it will have a jiggle pin if toyota thinks you need it

shaeff

I always cut the jiggle valves off, and always go with an OEM thermostat. I've had numerous aftermarkets fail on me, but never an OEM Toyota one.

drew303

You definetly want the hole. If there is none drill one. 1/16"