1989toy4wd

I have an 89 toyota pickup with some problems..

1. Burns oil....(but I am getting another car soon, because I will be leaving for UTI in houston, to learn automotive repair...and I want to rebuild my engine myself after I graduate )
2. Rebuilt Trans, new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing (not a problem, just listed it)
3. Scratches, dings, very bad paint on bed + blue and pink stripes, and Ooyota (suppost to say Toyota on tailgate...but they were done by a previous owner, and they werent done too great, 70's style colors, faded and ugly and embarrassing)

I was thinking of sanding down the scratches and the stripes, primering them, and putting a window decal on the back saying "Under Construction," what do you think.



This is what I want to do with it (no particular order yet)...
1. Marlin, rear bumper; some kind of front bumper (w/winch)
2. Bestop Cover for bed
3. New Paint (repaint silver)
4. Rhino line rockers, bed, bumpers (black)
5. Warn Removable winch in back
6. Air lockers front and rear+ regear
7. SAS + axle upgrades going to be done after i graduate UTI (no more birfs etc...also not going to lift IFS)
8. 5 in lift, fit 35in (nitto mud grapplers, or super swamper boggers)on black rockcrawler rims (17in im thinking)
9. NO BODY LIFT
10. Maybe fiberglass fenders and bedsides (so i can fit 35s)
11. Rebuild engine (new cam, headers, etc..)
12. New Carpet
13. Bucket seats (mastercraft)
14. Inner and/or exo cage
15. Xtra lights....
16. ETC

I just want to get some opinions on what I will be doing.
I need a new rear bumper soon, I want the marlin rear bumper, but I am not sure about it, do people that have them like them? If so I think this will be my first upgrade, because I was rearended recently, then I want to get the bestop, because of lack of room in the cab, because of subwoofers . Then where should I go from there...i will be getting a car for graduation soon, so the toyota will be my toy (hopefully, street legal) from now on.
Also, do you think I should paint my truck, or rhino the rockerpanels first (I was thinking the roll on stuff...cant remember the name...I heard it fades though any hints)

Honesty is the most important thing for me, so be honest, tell me thoughts, changes

Here is the latest picture of my truck, sorry about the size,about 5 months old, not much has changed though... when it stops raining, I will get newer pics up here:

HAVOC

Looks just like mine, although the body on mine is in bad shape.
For 1 and 5: can you get one winch and use a quick mount on either end of the vehicle?

Joyota

Seems like the smartest thing to do.
Cool, something NOT to worry about!
I agree, the pink's got to go :-)
?
Sounds Great! This would be almost exactly what I would be doing to mine. Except, I only want to fit 33x12.5's without rubbing, so I'll go with a 1-1/2 to 2" body lift along with balljoint spacers and extended shackles (less is better). As far as fitting 35's, I think that's the way to go.
With a regular cab, you definately need the extra room. Personally, I'd like to replace my regular cab with an extended cab. As far as paint, I think paint first, then rhino.
Nice truck! Wish mine was a short box.

Elton

those tires are huge

suprathepeg

I'd have a serious rethink about your lift plans. Keep the SAS as low as you can, I'd even think about notching the frame to keep it low. Body lifts are awesome they allow you to keep your center of gravity low, lift the junk under the truck for more clearance if you want, give better access to the frame for armor and are cheep if you DIY with UHMW poly rods. Lift as high as you need and as low as you can.

dcg9381

You should keep your SAS as low as you can to clear your tires under full flex (up and down). I'll never use a body lift. Ever.

I built a very similar truck to what you're doing. My complaints where that mechanical lockers changed how the truck drove on the street (esp at slow speeds) - I'm doing an e-locker this time.

35s are tall. Tall enough to get you into just about anywhere.. Also tall enough to cause problems in some parking garages, etc. I'll be building with 33s this time as I'm mainly on the road (in TX also). Lockers are the true secret...

Just be aware that you can probably buy the truck you want for about 50% of what it will cost you to build it, nevermind the time...

The 22RE will be slow with 35s, even under proper gears. You'll need a crawler to really wheel it. When you want to get some power out of that 22RE, talk to me... it can be done on a moderate budget.

Sonofmayhem

youll fit 35s with a 3in lift. and you can wheel with 35s and no crawler, but youll go threw some clutches. i run 33s on 4.37 gears, and its not a dog, but my clutch will be gone just because even with 30s you have to work with it. I also have a welded rear and love it nothing to ever worry about, but im gonna aussie lock the front to keep er' on a buget, with some marlin sliders, clutch and transfercase gears, and custom bumpers. it all ready wheels nice too. plus a bobbed and tailed bed is free so that will happen soon.

when i get the extra time and dough ill throw on a 2in body and drive train lift, w/ a budbuilt skidplate then some 5.29s

I rubber painted my rockers and like it, however next time ill rhino line or durabak them I also will be building a custom rear bumper that rests on the end of the frame that will hold the tire/ hilift and a can or two. then find some nice sized bed boxes for tools and parts.

suprathepeg

Why is that? serious question.

Droop is more important then up travel when articulation is concerned so keep that in mind as well. Its all about stability, for me at least.

check this out:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...ev=#Post912745

SoiledGreen98

Dude, the pink and blue ROCKS!!! It says Miami Vice all over it.

iruny4wd

nice, similar to my truck

Hiridentoyguy

The plans sound good, but are they realistic? Your talking about a LOT of $$$ (somewhere around 15,000 I would guess) 35's are very large for an engine with under 120 HP. You didn't mention how you wanted to use the truck, how much you'll be off/on road. Why do you want 35's? Is it the look? Because IMO you would have better capability off-road with 33's as you would have more power at the wheels. Also, you said "exo/int cage" For what purpose? Another issue is those lockers, Why air lockers? All in all your plan sounds great, just giving you some things to think about.

If it were me, I would go with 33's, a marlin dual crawl case, skip the fiberglass fenders and exo cage. I'd go wtih Sliders, an Aussie locker in the front, e-locker in the rear. good luck-Hiriden
p.s I ALMOST went to UTI for collision repair, the campus is nice and they have nice shops etc. good luck

1989toy4wd

Thanks for all of the comments....

I forgot to mention this..I kind of want this to be like an expedition truck, where I live there arent many trails, and I would have to go to places, so I want it streetable (even though I plan on buying a dual wheeled diesel truck for towing after graduation).

haha, first of all, I know this is going to cost some money, but I have spent over 5k already on repairs/mods (not including the price of the truck), the truck cost me $2700. I will never get my money back on this truck, so I am going to build it up. I like the air lockers, because my truck will be driven on the street sometimes...and I like the idea of it...I wouldnt mind an E-locker, but for somewhat cheaper I can get the ARBs, plus I am going to have on board air anyways, so why not!!

I didnt really want to go to 35s, it was just a thought, I really only wanted to stay at 33s, because my truck will be driven on the street. That was my origional plan...and I will go with the 33s.

I wanted to keep the lift low too, I just didnt want any rubbing anywhere.

I just dont like the way body lifts look, you can see the frame and everything, I also dont like all the complications with them e.g. bumper relocators (which IMO are dangerous, because bumpers are suppost to absorb impacts), fuel filler neck extension...etc

I was thinking about a quick mount too, but most front bumpers have winch mounts built into them, and I think that its "poserish" to have a bumper that has a space designed for a winch with no winch...lol

I really hate those stipes...it reminds me of "Miami Vice!" Besides my truck was only in the 80s for one year!!! I think the previous owner was still stuck in the 80s!!! Haha

I will forget about the cage, more than likely I wont be doing anything so extreme that I will need it.

I want to do a SAS, because I dont feel like replacing CVs all the time, or getting alignments as much, plus it would be a great learning expreience for me.

It really wasnt that different with the 30s I have on there now, the old 28s, were okay, but they were street tires, and they needed to be replaced, almost no tread!! I dont know how you can possibly burn up clutches that fast!! You might want to look at that...maybe there is something else contributing to that!!

And for Elton, I would have put 32s on there, but as I stated before, my truck burns oil, and i think that 32s would have been too much for my poor old tired 22re!! Plus they get the job done!!

Nice truck iruny4wd, almost the same, cept mine has a pink stripe!! haha

AH64ID

Sounds similar to what I have done, and am doing...

Dont be discouraged... a 22re will turn 35's.. slowly, but will turn them. No joke on the crawler gears thou. I am doing something to mine this spring.. have decided on 2 2.28 cases or 1 4.7 case, I really like 4lo now for snow/hills...

I drive 35's on the street and they arent that much different that my 33's were, but on the trail they are SOOOOO much better... you'll like em. I plan to run 4" springs on my rig after I SAS.

Good call on NO BODY LIFT.... very smart move....

suprathepeg

If all you want is to run 33s then you don't really have to spend more then $150 for the clearance you need. If it were me I'd do a 1" BL and torque up the t-bars then fix things when they break and see how you like that. I have been on some seriously nutters trails and circumstances with the stock 31s and stock suspension. The bumper issue with a BL is pretty much a wash when you install the winch and new bumper.

I'm going pretty much the opposite direction you are though with my expidition build. I'm hoping to stay with 31s install my rear lockrite, and my front LSD (both sitting in my garage for almost a year, lol) and see if I need any more tire and lift it then. The front LSD was a steal at $25 used in good condition.

bodo

As far as the bodylift goes just being able to get to those top two transmission bolts with a regular ratchet is enough for me to put one on. Oh and don't forget about the starter and fuel filter. I kinda a like the frame sticking down some it makes it look more robust like the old hardbodies and 1 ton trucks of today. The factory bumper brackets are wimpy any way it's not that much worse with the relocation brackets. Hey JMO.

1989toy4wd

Thanks, I am just ready to get started...but i can only do small things, because I havent started UTI yet and wont till may!!! So the engine is going to be after I graduate!!

Any other suggestions would be helpful...so keep em comming!!

Sonofmayhem

does anyone realize how many people wheel 37s with the 22re? if you dont know dont speak up. proper gearing and lockers will get you anywhere. 35s are a good sized tire that will get you anywhere, but 33s work great too. if you are looking for a trail/expo truck, you have good ideas, except you wont need fiberglass, i personally will get an interior cage. just because i want to be able to get into tighter spots if need be, and be safe.

suprathepeg

Not quite sure of your point?

bodo

I think he's talking about the post that said you won't be happy running 35's with a 22re, which is total BS. I've got 36x14.50x15's with (high) 4.88's and it's plenty enough to get you places you didn't need to be. And those are HEAVY Groundhawg radials.

rockota

35's + 5.29's and call it done.

Run a 3" Marlin lift instead of the 5" and you'll be plenty happy.

Then check out Brian's page for more info on Expedition-style wheeling/building.. http://www.brian894x4.com/