gdavis67

First the basics: 92 pickup, 4WD, reg. cab dlx, 22RE, 5 Spd. I just finished rebuilding the motor for my pickup and got a chance this weekend to get it in. Day 1 went very well, but had to quit working on it to get to other commitments. Day 2, not so well. Everything I touched went poorly and had to be done twice - should have quit and gone home. After everything was done and checked twice, fluids were in and time to start. Connected the old battery and hit the key - nothing. Had dash lights and radio,but no crank. Checked the battery and it was dead as a stone. Off the the parts store for a new optima red top. Installed the new battery only to find the the positive cable to the starter would not reach to post on the new Optima. Another hour of work running a new cable and I'm ready. Go to make the battery connections and step right in a pile of NOOB! In my haste to hear it roar, I crossed the positive and negative cables on the battery. They were only on like that for a second, but I was scared of what I had done. Switched the connections and was ready to go. Open the door, put in the key, buzzer makes noise ("that's good" I think) turn the key and viola - NOTHING!! No dash lights, no click, ZERO. Like I said, I have a warning buzzer, headlights, and 4-ways, but nothing else. No radio, no wipers, no dash lights, and no starter noises. What have I done?! I have checked all of the fuses under the dash and the ones in the engine bay (with continuity test) and they are all fine. I am an automotive electrical idiot and need help fast. This truck has to get out of the shop it's in soon and now it's dead. if you have any help or suggestions I would be very greatful. I can't be the only one who has gotten in a rush and done this only to be soooo dissapointed. Thanks for reading.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Check not only the fuses but the fusible link.

Do you have battery voltage to the fuse block in the engine compartment??

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Usually it just blows the Fusible link, the wire coming off of the positive lead that goes to the fuse box.

gdavis67

I have power at the diagnosis port, position B+. Could it still be the fuseable link? Is that in the line between the battery and the under hood fuse box?

redbayredneck

I did that once, and it blew the ignition fuse on my '95 Tacoma. I would focus on every fuse possible.

scope103

Check the 80 and 40amp fuses in Relay Block 2 (don't try to pull them out like itty-bitty fuses; they're bolted in). Headlights and Hazard are powered before these fuses.

gdavis67

Thanks to all- I found it. It was the 80 amp fuse. Thought I checked it but must have mis-read the multimeter. Found out it bolts in the hard way, but it's fixed. New motor purring like a kitten now. Lost the radio somehow but that can wait for now.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Great to hear you got it fixed. Always nice to know what got it and sure some one else could use the info as well.

Just adding this for the next guy, it threw me for a loop trying to figure out how to get it out the first time.
All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.


Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.