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Surging! Need help!

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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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From: PIttsburgh, PA
Surging! Need help!

I replaced ecu, igniter, MAF, spark plug wires, and even fed it some sea foam and i'm still getting no results. 1990 runner is surging between 1500-2000 rpms. Toyota dealer was goin' to charge me $1300 to order ECU and the igniter. No thanks. I got the parts my self saving $1100 and put them in. Giving me the same problem. When i start it up it idols great. Step on the accelerator rpms hit about 1800 then it bogs down to 800rpm.

Toyota dealer refused to work on the truck. "Specialist" says he will only work on it with new parts...!! I got the parts they said to get even installed them myself for 'em, and still they refuse. I need help gentlemen. It's me, this keyboard, and your input!

Parts I replaced:
1. MAF
2. spark plug wires
3. Igniter
4. ECU - now I have two different models, (89661-3D010 wrong one) (89661-35320 correct one), the wrong one bogs at 3k rpm, and the correct bogs at 1800rpm.

Last edited by Shinxxy; Oct 11, 2009 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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egr bad? pcv bad? Check compression too
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 90-3vzeslug
egr bad? pcv bad? Check compression too
Performed a self-disgnostic on my truck today.. both ECU's.. the incorrect ecu 89661-3D010 lets me rev to 3rpm then bogs, and the CEL blinked twice paused then blinked seven more times. Code 27? The correct ecu 89661-35320 just gave me a steady blink. Does this look accurate? http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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possible o2 sensor problem, however the wrong ecu may be looking for different voltage than the correct one. o2 may be fine. constant blinking could be a major problem. clean all electrical connectors and grounds would be my first suggestion.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 90-3vzeslug
possible o2 sensor problem, however the wrong ecu may be looking for different voltage than the correct one. o2 may be fine. constant blinking could be a major problem. clean all electrical connectors and grounds would be my first suggestion.

What could that mean if it has a constant blink?
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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constant blink is the ecu's way of telling you NOT to drive the vehicle!
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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From: PIttsburgh, PA
Took the distributor cap off, and I noticed this crack on the rotor.


Could this be the reason why it's bogging down at 2000rpm?
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:45 PM
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you might want to check the tps mine would bog down a little at around 2000rpm i had used a analog multimeter to adjust it but it wasn't accurate enough i use a digital and it was only off by maybe 1mm but runs a lot better now
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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Yea, check the TPS, when it starts going bad it can cause all kinds of strange problems.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by myyota
Yea, check the TPS, when it starts going bad it can cause all kinds of strange problems.
Hey, I just disconnected the TPS and when I started it up and gave it some gas.. no sputtering occured. Finally, after replacing distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, ecu, MAF, and the ignitor, but hey good ol' tune up can never hurt. Lol. I hate when people start a thread and not post the final outcome of the issue. So I may be able to get away with just cleaning the hell out of my throttle body or just end up replacing it, but anyway thanks gentlemen.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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I don't want to be mean or just a jerk. But next time check the simple stuff first. Not the hard stuff..... hasn't mommy always told you start small.......
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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From: Show Low, AZ
we had the kind of the same thing in a 94 pickup. turned out that it was the ecu. found one on ebay for $25. i would pull your ecu and open it up and look at the board. check my topics created on my profile and see if it is similar to your gremlin.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Generally........... the computer is that last thing you look at unless its throwing the code telling you its fried............
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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From: PIttsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by Kiroshu
I don't want to be mean or just a jerk. But next time check the simple stuff first. Not the hard stuff..... hasn't mommy always told you start small.......
Well, i'm still learning on my own here, and not to mention I was mislead by a toyota dealer. They told me I would have to spend $1300 for a new ecu and igniter. So I went after that at first, but thanks for your 2.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Shinxxy
Well, i'm still learning on my own here, and not to mention I was mislead by a toyota dealer. They told me I would have to spend $1300 for a new ecu and igniter. So I went after that at first, but thanks for your 2.
We've all been there. Good news is now you know that almost everything under the hood is new!
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Yeah, they usually jump to the most expensive option right away..

My dealer told me I needed a trans rebuild, turns out a $10 bushing took care of it haha!

Glad to hear you got it fixed Clean the TB really good, spray TB cleaner (I use intake kleen and deep creep) into the little wax valve ports and such.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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a constant blink means that the diagnostic test is engaged and that there are no codes. it's the first scenario listed in the diagnostic codes list.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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From: washington state
I also had similar problems, sputtering slightly at idle and cutting and lowing power as I got on the gas.. being the amateur mechanic I am I went for the expensive stuff first.. ended up being plugs that solved the problem -_-
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