Supra AFM swap rough cold idle
04-27-2015, 01:27 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Supra AFM swap rough cold idle
1985 4Runner 22re 5speed
Hi, recently I did the battery/intake swap after I aquired a 1982 supra AFM (part number verified). I tested the AFM per 4crawler's instructions with a multimeter, and is within spec. I installed it along with a K&N filter,3" elbow, and silicone couplers from Vatozone.
After the install, I started the 4Runner cold. It was having trouble idling, but after it warmed up, it drove better than before with the stock AFM and idled around 800-850rpm (just like the stock AFM). I had no issues cold idling before the swap.
I search online and thought my idle air control valve (IACV) may have been dirty/malfunctioning. I removed it last night to clean it. Everything seemed to work fine, no clogs. I measured the resistance at the electrical plug, 50.3 ohms, which is in spec. However, there is no continuity between the contacts. Does this mean the heater coil in the IACV is broken?I cleaned the valve and put it in a pot of water and boiled it. I watched the bimetallic spring close the bypass (simulating the engine warming up). Other than the IACV not passing a continuity check, it seems to work fine.
I still have to install the IACV....If this doesn't fix the problem, then I'm stumped. Has anyone experienced this?
My other thought is to start messing with the gears inside the AFM to richen it up a tooth or two.
Hi, recently I did the battery/intake swap after I aquired a 1982 supra AFM (part number verified). I tested the AFM per 4crawler's instructions with a multimeter, and is within spec. I installed it along with a K&N filter,3" elbow, and silicone couplers from Vatozone.
After the install, I started the 4Runner cold. It was having trouble idling, but after it warmed up, it drove better than before with the stock AFM and idled around 800-850rpm (just like the stock AFM). I had no issues cold idling before the swap.
I search online and thought my idle air control valve (IACV) may have been dirty/malfunctioning. I removed it last night to clean it. Everything seemed to work fine, no clogs. I measured the resistance at the electrical plug, 50.3 ohms, which is in spec. However, there is no continuity between the contacts. Does this mean the heater coil in the IACV is broken?I cleaned the valve and put it in a pot of water and boiled it. I watched the bimetallic spring close the bypass (simulating the engine warming up). Other than the IACV not passing a continuity check, it seems to work fine.
I still have to install the IACV....If this doesn't fix the problem, then I'm stumped. Has anyone experienced this?
My other thought is to start messing with the gears inside the AFM to richen it up a tooth or two.
Last edited by MikeNasty; 04-27-2015 at 01:30 PM.
04-28-2015, 07:31 PM
#2
you measured resistance on the iacv itself, right? zero ohms is a dead short, 50 ohms isn't much more than that, and it's within spec.
you are saying that the truck used to warm up perfectly right before the afm swap? the iacv needs 12v during warmup??? did something get unhooked during the swap?
i would not mess with the afm, it'll just create another variable.
you are saying that the truck used to warm up perfectly right before the afm swap? the iacv needs 12v during warmup??? did something get unhooked during the swap?
i would not mess with the afm, it'll just create another variable.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
09-04-2015 09:27 AM
