spddm0n

I just bought a 1988 Toyota Pickup, regular cab with a 22RE. It was inoperable with a bad fuel pump when I bought it. I had to remove the rear drive shaft when pulling it onto the trailer to get it home, because the drive shaft was turning even though the transmission and transfer case were in neutral. ??

I put the new fuel pump in and started it up and noticed that when the transfer case is in 2H, and the transmission is in NEUTRAL, the rear drive shaft (flange only, since I removed the shaft itself) turns - there is output to the rear driveshaft. When I put the transmission in GEAR (any forward gear reverse), and the transfer case is still in 2H, there is no output to the rear driveshaft (it behaves as though it's in neutral).

However, when the transfer case is in 4H or 4L, and the transmission is in NEUTRAL, there is no output - it appears to be in neutral. When I have the transfer case still in 4H or 4L, and I put the transmission in any gear, it has normal output to the rear driveshaft.

Also, when I have the transfer case in 4H or 4L, with the transmission in gear, it drives WITHOUT the hubs being locked! WTF?! Are my hubs seized too?!

Wow, never seen a Toyota Pickup in this condition before!

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

scope103

Isn't that what you would expect? The rear differential isn't disconnected, so as you pull the vehicle, turning the rear wheels, they drive the driveshaft through the differential. That's why you always disconnect the driveshaft when towing a vehicle with an automatic; otherwise the rear wheels drive the transmission (without any fluid pressure, as the pump is not running).

I'll bet you can reach up and stop the flange from turning with your hand. (If you're going to test that, and I would, be careful.) You might have an ever-so-slightly draggy direct clutch (C2), so even in neutral the turning input shaft can connect through to turn the output shaft. When you put it "in gear," you're adding just enough friction to overcome the drag from C2, and everything stops.

Drives, as in you can drive to the store and back with no rear driveshaft? Then at least one (probably both) hubs aren't unlocked.

Or do you mean with the truck on jack stands, you can see the front wheels turning? Again, it's probably just friction in the system transmitting a tiny bit of torque through the open hubs. This one is absolutely worth testing; with the truck off and the front wheels off the ground, can you turn the wheel by hand? (You mayl need to block the opposite tire to keep it from turning "backwards". If the hub on that wheel is locked, you should see the front driveshaft turning, without much effort, when you turn the wheel. ) Repeat on the other side; if hubs are your problem, there's no reason both work or don't work at the same time. I'll bet you'll find them open but "stiff." Time to take them apart and clean them.

spddm0n

Actually, this is a 5 speed. I forgot to mention that. And, the differential is currently disconnected. When it wasn't, the rear end would drag when moving the truck forward while in neutral (one wheel would try to spin backwards).

I can try to put my hand on the output flange to the rear driveshaft, but I know when it is in neutral, I will not be able to stop it. Same reason the wheels would drag while trying to tow it.

I've not put the front wheels up (truck on jack stands) to test the front, but I don't really need to since, it drives forward with full power! I know the hubs must be locked in still. How does that happen when they are manual hubs and show they are "Free".

I'm more concerned with the issue in the transfer case/transmission. What can cause the truck to output to the driveshaft when in "neutral", while in 2 wheel drive, but not when in 4WD?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Think about it some more you will figure it out.

In colder temps it is even worse

spddm0n

Temperature might have something to do with the hubs, but a doubt it has anything to do with what is going on in the transfer case. It's also my 85 degrees F here.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Remove both manual locking hub covers and see why it's not unlocking. See if it was packed with thick grease.

spddm0n

Thanks for the replies! I finally had a chance to get back to the truck. So weird...The issue is no longer...an issue. ?? Not sure what happened. I think there is something funky going on in the transmission/transfer case, but it's possible that driving it around with only the front driveshaft broke it loose. I did grab a hold of the output flange to the rear driveshaft and I was able to hold it tight and prevent it from spinning. With all four tires up in the air and the rear driveshaft back on, the rear tires still spin slowly while the transmission is in neutral, but I am able to stop them from spinning.

The problem WAS...with both the transmission and transfer case in neutral, when I tried to pull the truck up onto the trailer, one rear tire turned forward, while the other turned backwards...causing the whole rear end to lock up while trying to roll forward. Weird. I looked at the fluids in the transmission, transfer case, rear axle and front axle, and while they look super old and sticky, they weren't extraordinary.

Now, I can have the transfer case in 2H or neutral and the transmission in any gear and it operates as expected (also in 4H, 4L).

The front hubs issue is a separate issue. I tried to hold the front tires from spinning (all four in the air) while in 4H or 4L with the transmission in first gear and the hubs unlocked. I can prevent one front tire from spinning, but trying to hold them both is not possible.

Question is, if I can hold one front tire from spinning (as described above), while in 4H or 4L, but not the second front tire, does that indicate that both hubs are likely stuck locked?