Junkers88

Isolated the issues with my rig, the usual start sometimes and sometimes not, and determined it's the ignition switch. Yes I know lots of folks have this problem. Well if I can't source a new one (or can afford it) I'll need to either get the Summit Hot Shot (like this since it's designed to fix this issue) or build myself a starter button (probably cheaper than Summit).

Since I know nothing about either I'd like your opinions on both, if you have/had either, pros/cons, etc.

Oh and if any of you have a darn link on how to make your own starter thing please share it and keep in mind that I'm an electrical idiot.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Try DeathKitten

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

You mean ignition switch or starter relay? When I thought mine went bad (starter relay), I almost switched my relay over to an older Ford style relay.

Junkers88

deathkitten?

I'm 99% positive it's the ignition switch. I pulled it apart and the copper contact (the big rings) are all pitted and in pretty poor shape.


I called NAPA and they have a replacement for 91$. Crap this is getting expensive in a hurry.

xxxtreme22r

91 what????

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=66023_0_0_ $55.99


Rock auto is showing 3 one for $40 one for $63 and one for $66

Junkers88

Thanks for the heads up on that! I ran to Auto Zone and got one for 44$. *whew* Nothing like saving 50 bucks that I can use elsewhere.

So the new switch is in and it starts like it should. Now this brings up a new question.

Should I still install the HS or DIY button to help prolong the life of the ignition switch?

Hadmatt54

By adding more connections in that circuit you add more places that something could go wrong. For example this latest problem could be narrowed down to wiring, start relay, ignition switch or starter. If you add a push button you've added three more failure points. The push button or the wiring connections on each side.
Your truck is an 89, the factory ignition switch lasted 22 years. If you consider the possible number of times that switch was turned to the start position in those 22 years....most anyone would call that pretty good service.
If it was mine I leave it the way it is!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Leave it alone

Junkers88

Thanks guys. I'll stick with the old "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and leave it alone. If it goes out again in about 2031 I'll figure something out then.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yeah...I doubt the local auto store special will last that long....

kiyobrown

Really? Logan tinkers on his rig more then a meth addict.......

Pretty sure your 31's and 4.10's weren't broke.........

Junkers88

Yeah! Take that Logan!!!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

How's that AFM adjustment going for ya? Ass.

kiyobrown

Are we just now getting to this?

Old news, try to keep up, old timer.

xxxtreme22r

holy cow what did I start by sending him to AZ for an ignition switch. haha. Sorry man.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

You just dont want my Truetrac......

kiyobrown

I'd like an LSD more then an Aussie for the rear diff. Just need it in working order........

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Gawd....it works just fine....

Junkers88

I think Kiyo is worried that once he goes locked/locked he'll start wheeling more.... :wabbit:

Edit: OMG Logan I just looked at your avatar again and realized it was a pile of Big Blue!!! ROFLMAO!!!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I used the Painless Hot Shot relay kit and it works fine:
-http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#OtherOptions

Sure, you can do it yourself for less (switch + relay), but the kit is nice. All pre-wired, socket and bracket for relay and switch, includes circuit breaker and pretty much plugs right in. Totally solved my random no-start issue (and the starter contacts and wiring on mine is fine). Big advantage of the relay setup is you are now passing 0.1 amps through the ignition switch while starting, instead of ~20 amps for the starter solenoid.