sudden temperature drop
#41
it's NOT a fire hazzard. I've done this with a couple Mitsubishi 4 cylinder cars for the whole winter with no bad results. quicker to warm up, toastier driving in the cold.
BUT getting back to your issue, you never mentioned what you did when you found out the core was leaking. You know this will reduce the heat in your cab...
BUT getting back to your issue, you never mentioned what you did when you found out the core was leaking. You know this will reduce the heat in your cab...
#42
it's NOT a fire hazzard. I've done this with a couple Mitsubishi 4 cylinder cars for the whole winter with no bad results. quicker to warm up, toastier driving in the cold.
BUT getting back to your issue, you never mentioned what you did when you found out the core was leaking. You know this will reduce the heat in your cab...
BUT getting back to your issue, you never mentioned what you did when you found out the core was leaking. You know this will reduce the heat in your cab...
While the core is being replaced, I also need to replace the speedometer cable and change the dash lights to LED.
-edit-
screw it, I'm buying a heater core after christmas and replacing int ASAP.
#43
you know you can always pull the sensor and do ohms test on it
plus you can always jut replace it too.. remember those sensor can go bad..
i would just pull the sensor and clean it with a wire brush and put it back in the intake..
plus you can always jut replace it too.. remember those sensor can go bad..
i would just pull the sensor and clean it with a wire brush and put it back in the intake..
#44
Even if the sensor is bad...it's not blowing out enough heat to get rid of the condensation.
#46
the valve should be pretty close to the firewall..
have someone oprate the heat control valve inside the truck and you get un the hood and make sure it opens and closes like it should
are you giving your truck pleanty of timing to warm up.. its just a thought.. i dont know if you live in the snowbelt..
have someone oprate the heat control valve inside the truck and you get un the hood and make sure it opens and closes like it should
are you giving your truck pleanty of timing to warm up.. its just a thought.. i dont know if you live in the snowbelt..
#47
the valve should be pretty close to the firewall..
have someone oprate the heat control valve inside the truck and you get un the hood and make sure it opens and closes like it should
are you giving your truck pleanty of timing to warm up.. its just a thought.. i dont know if you live in the snowbelt..
have someone oprate the heat control valve inside the truck and you get un the hood and make sure it opens and closes like it should
are you giving your truck pleanty of timing to warm up.. its just a thought.. i dont know if you live in the snowbelt..
#48
you may have partly clogged heater core..
i would un hook the line to the heat core from the engine and blow air through the heat core to see if there is any restricted flow...
what type of thermosat are u running in the truck...
i would un hook the line to the heat core from the engine and blow air through the heat core to see if there is any restricted flow...
what type of thermosat are u running in the truck...
#49
how cold is it where your driving?
block off a portion of your radaitor with some cardboard... so, your coolant isnt cooling down so quick..
when the last time you did a coolant flush...
upgrade your water pump with a pump with more impellers for more flow...
block off a portion of your radaitor with some cardboard... so, your coolant isnt cooling down so quick..
when the last time you did a coolant flush...
upgrade your water pump with a pump with more impellers for more flow...
#51
So I shoved a piece of cardboard in the front of the radiator. Made no difference at all. I guess I'll just end this thread here until I get the heater core replaced. I still don't see how it can be fine until one rainy day it just decides not to be hot inside anymore.
On a related note, are there stronger blower motors you can buy for these trucks?
On a related note, are there stronger blower motors you can buy for these trucks?
#52
well make sure you get all the air out of the system when u install everything..
check for leaks before you assy. everything back together..
you did check the radior with the cap off to make sure you are getting good flow of coolant? dont take the cap off while the engine is hot but, just pop the cap and start the truck and see if there is good flow...
if your not getting good flow i would replace the water pump.. but in your case it sounds like a clogged heater core to me..
check for leaks before you assy. everything back together..
you did check the radior with the cap off to make sure you are getting good flow of coolant? dont take the cap off while the engine is hot but, just pop the cap and start the truck and see if there is good flow...
if your not getting good flow i would replace the water pump.. but in your case it sounds like a clogged heater core to me..
#53
well make sure you get all the air out of the system when u install everything..
check for leaks before you assy. everything back together..
you did check the radior with the cap off to make sure you are getting good flow of coolant? dont take the cap off while the engine is hot but, just pop the cap and start the truck and see if there is good flow...
if your not getting good flow i would replace the water pump.. but in your case it sounds like a clogged heater core to me..
check for leaks before you assy. everything back together..
you did check the radior with the cap off to make sure you are getting good flow of coolant? dont take the cap off while the engine is hot but, just pop the cap and start the truck and see if there is good flow...
if your not getting good flow i would replace the water pump.. but in your case it sounds like a clogged heater core to me..
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