Arro

Hello... I did a quick search but I admit I'm in a hurry so I might have missed something.

Engine is a 1990 FI. Little coolant line by the thermostat housing blew. Looks like the line that flows coolant through the throttle body. Anyways I replaced it, but to get to it I had to remove a couple things... the TPS connector, the intake tube, and a few vac hose connections.

I was 99 percent sure I put everything back the way it was, but now it idles bad.... sounds like a misfire or something. ???????

I'm still very new to the 22RE engine. I took some pictures...



First thing, what is that little cylinder? It has two lines, one goes to the intake manifold, and the other *I think * goes to this weird diaphragm thing with an adjustable spring.



What is that spring thing? It has four hose connections... I disconnected them all to unscrew it and get it out of the way to replace that coolant line. Somehow I put things back wrong...?

Two of the hose barbs are thin, two are thicker... one of the thicker ones goes to (I think) this brass colored barb on the throttle body. The other one (which I have a red pointer on) goes to (I think) one of the two barbs on that little cylinder behind the distributor.

There are two other barbs on this spring thingy... both are factory-bent towards the driver side... I've shown where they are reconnected.

I've tried swapping the two small barbs, no improvement. I've tried swapping the two silver cylinder connections, no improvement.

How do I get this thing running right again? I don't even know how to diagnose these engines, if there are codes, whatever. I don't even know what these little hoses and solenoids do, I just wanted to replace 1 stupid blown coolant line and now I have a sputtering idle problem.

Team420

just curious, but when you replaced the coolant hose, did you burp the system? That hose that comes off thye throttle body connects to the I.A.C. valve, and if there was an air bubble in there it would mess with your idle. Other than that, I can offer no help, I have not worked on a 22re in a long time.

Arro

How do I burp the system?

Which hose are you talking about, the coolant line I replaced, or the one that connects at the top of the intake manifold?

Team420

to burp the system, you have to park the truck on an incline, take the rad cap off, and run it for a good 20 min or so, and fill till full. If you took a coolant line off of the throttle body, it runs to the I.A.C. valve (idle air control), it senses the coolant temp, and adjust idle accordingly.

thook

The silver cylinder behind the distributor is the air control valve for the P.S. pump. It opens when you have the wheels at full lock steering to allow vacuum to circulate from one vac line going to it and through the second one. They are connected to the idle up valve......the thing with the large hex head and spring on the side of the intake.....which also regulates a/c idle up.

Basically, you could plug all of the vac lines going to the PS air valve and s/c vacuum switching valve (the thing on the top of the valve cover with two small vac lines and the electrical connector) and troubleshoot the idle. I don't think it's necessary, though. It looks like you have the lines all hooked correctly. But, if even you didn't didn't, it shouldn't create an idle issue until the PS air valve or the a/c vsv are active. Otherwise, while inactive, it's a closed system...barring vacuum leaks.

I think Team420 is probably right. You may just need to get the air out of the cooling system. Run a search on bleeding the coolant system for more tips, but It's really simple. Take the rad cap off, run the motor until the thermostat opens and all air bubbles are purged. You should see the coolant flowing smoothly through the filler neck. You may need to raise the front of the vehicle to get the air to move up and out of the engine block.

Arro

So the little silver cylinder's connections are the same, and swapping them doesn't really make a difference, as long as they're connected when open?

Ok I feel even stupider now tho... the idle up valve... can you explain it more? It is connected to both the little silver PS cylinder and also connected to a solenoid on the valvecover. What is the solenoid on the valvecover? I can't remember now after switching the connections back and forth, which line on the solenoid goes to which barb on the idle up valve. Or like the PS valve, does it even matter?

The picture here in the thread is how I have them hooked up as of right now, but I swapped them back and forth a few times. I *think* they are backwards, but...????

I have two car ramps, perfect for bleeding it. As soon as someone verifies how these four hoses (two for the PS valve and two for that solenoid) are connected, I'll get them straight and try bleeding the engine. I take it letting it run with a sputtery idle for a few minutes isn't going to hurt anything... is it?

thook

No...you're not hurting anything.

I didn't mean that if the lines weren't hooked up correctly that it wouldn't matter "at all"....just when the a/c idle up and PS idle up are functional is when it's necessary. To clarify....right now the a/c is not activate nor are the wheels at full lock. So, neither of those conditions are affecting the idle since neither condition is present. Follow?

The a/c vsv is only active when the a/c is switched on and sends voltage to the vsv. The valve inside opens and allows atmospheric air in through the round breather on the end creating a small, controlled vacuum leak. Controlled meaning that it's regulated by the idle up valve adjustment....the thing with the hex head/spring. Since a small vac leak can create a higher than normal idle (allowing more air to the intake), Toyota engineers used that to their advantage to offset the load placed on the motor by a running a/c and PS pump being that they are both belt driven. It requires horsepower from the motor to run them. More air = more horsepower.

So, for now, don't worry about the vac line routing and whether they're hooked up right until after you've bleed the cooling system. Just get the basic curb idle fixed. Then, you can worry about the other auxiliary functions....a/c and PS idle up.

Arro

the suggestion worked! I didn't have much of an incline, so I took off the cap and revved it a few times for about 15 mins or so till it was hot and bubbling out. Eventually the idle smoothed back to normal.

I was also able to use the A/C switch and the steering to listen to the idle difference, and swap the right connections, as well as adjust the A/C idle up speed difference. Was easy once I had things idling right so I could hear them work.

zlathim

It's awesome to hear that it worked out for you!

BTW- You rocked this tech question dude! SEARCHing for the answer first, followed by a complete and easily understood dialog of your problem with pictures. Awesome job! It makes it easy for people to help when everything is clearly explained. Kudos for you for having your act together!!!