hatda02

Hi everyone....

My inner boot ripped so I'm replacing the unit.

I have the truck jacked up, wheel off, and the outer part of the hub off (handle that goes from free to lock). I have a service manual and tried to follow this:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...toyotas-81059/

Step 1...yes, step 1...says this:

1. Remove the hub/ADD flange, the bolt in the end of the axle, and the C-clip

Where is the C-Clip at? Do I have to pull the inner part of the hub off to see it? I pulled the nuts off and those cone washers (I think that is the name) are still there. I think they have to come off before pulling the rest. Can anyone help with what I'm missing?

Thanks.
Dave

bigt

yeah pull off the whole hub and there should be a clip on the end of the cv shaft!

if you have 2 jacks and use one under the opposite rear axle and one on the outer most part of the lower a arm you only need to take the hub and 6 bolts on the diff side of cv off and it will slide out and in.. i did it a few weeks ago passenger side

mt_goat

If you press out those CV studs and replace them with bolts you can change it much easier next time.



The C-clip may be covered in grease and hard to see.

hatda02

Thanks for the info and pics! Both really helped. I had a hek of a time with the cone washers until I beat the crap out of the studs....it did not matter since I will be replacing them anyway. I'm guessing you can only get those at the stealership so I'll be calling later. I can see the C-Clip now, but I called it a night before going any further.

I'm really thinking about changing the rotors/pads/calipers since I'm in there. They seem to work fine, but I have no idea on their age...they look pretty dated...what's another couple 100 bucks when everything else on the truck is new?

crews462

If changing out one cv, you might want to do the other side as well. Those cone washers are a bit@#. I ended up having to use an air chisel on mine. beat them all to hell.

mt_goat

The studs I was talking about were the ones holding the CV in place. Good luck getting those studs out of the center hub.

hatda02

From the pic you posted I thought they looked too clean to be original....I guess this will be another task in front of me....

I am going to do the other side in the very near future...probably as soon as I get the pass. side all buttoned up.

mt_goat

Wire wheel on drill = clean Actually that one pin is new, but I had to drill out the old broken one and make a new one (real PITA).

bigt

you didnt need to beat the studs id you heat up he cone washers then tap he side of the hub they fly off like pop corn

Matt16

I took a 10lbs hand sledge, and gave a good hit to the ADD flange or hub above each cone washer. The pop right out. I didn't need to head mine.

Brenjen

My cone washer pop out with a light tap on the end with a brass punch, a little wiggle of the hub or a slender screwdriver or center punch inserted into the slit in the washer. I've never had a problem with mine at all.

As far as the studs on the hub, they don't press in IIRC; they are reverse threaded into the hub.

As far as the studs on the cv, I popped mine with a C-clamp & just ground the splines off. Now I have removable bolts & didn't have to buy anything.

Changing the cv is easy(er) with the studs out; all I have to do is turn the wheel (right for DS & left for PS) to full lock & then stick a small jack under the lower BJ on the side I'm working & jack it up until the truck begins to lift off the jackstand & *badda-bing-badda-boom - it's out.

hatda02

I tried tapping on the ends of the studs lightly and they would not budge. I also tried to get in the slit with a screw driver and no luck. It was not until I beat them about 10 times heavily did they pop. I don't know why, but the pass side of my truck has always been more rusted/harder to work on than the drivers side.

Since they are reverse threaded to the hub, you don't think it will be too big of a deal getting them out then?

Brenjen

Assuming they are reverse threaded into the hub (I don't know 100% since I've never broken one, just going off of what I remember seeing) you should be able to get them out many different ways....by using a jam nut would be my first try, a small pipe wrench or even welding a nut to the end could even work.

I wouldn't beat the hubs, you'll eventually make a flat spot on the top of the hub. Next time try using a brass punch & a BFH. Hit the brass instead of the stud, the brass is softer. Start easy & steadily increase the strength of the blows until it pops.

hatda02

Thanks. I'll update on how it goes. I'm probably going to remove the C-Clip tonight and get stuck again....I bought some new to me seats and installed those last night.

I did get this info on replacing the studs and washers from toyotapart.com:

42323-60010 cone washers $2.62

90116-08325 studs $0.64 ea.

Matt16

The "studs" are a hybrid between bolts and studs (to the layman). They have a bold head and, instead of threading into the diff-side flange, there are little splines that fit by compression into the flange on the diff.

I used my hand sledge again. It took a couple decent swings to get the worst studs out.

mt_goat

Sounds like you are talking about the CV studs. He screwed up his studs that hold the cone washers for the lockouts. My guess is they are not reverse threaded.

Brenjen

Yeah Matt's confused. As far as the hub studs - I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure they are threaded into the hub vs. press fit.

hatda02

I spent some time on it last night and tonight.

Last night I got the nuts on the studs broke free. Reading some of the other references I had to put the hub back on, lock in 4WD, put in 4WD, and then wedge a 2x2 between the brake pedal and the hump of the floor where the seat mounts....I did not have someone with me to step on the brake pedal.

I got the CV out tonight and I tossed it on the ground. One of the CV studs just fell out on its own. I guess the worst part was how greasy everything was with the cracked boot and more kept oozing out. My plan over the next few days:

-Hit the stealership and get the new studs...came in today.
-Clean all the grease up
-Pop the remaining 5 CV studs
-Start digging into how the hub studs will be removed

Thanks again for all your help!

Dave

Brenjen

One last little tip for you - use a boxed end wrench to hold the cv. Put the wrench on the stud in a way that it hits the lower A-Frame while you turn the nut with a 2nd wrench or socket; that'll bind it up on the wrench & be so much simpler to do by yourself. That way you don't have to go through all those silly changes with the 2x4 & the locking it in four wheel drive crap lol